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Z bar clutch fork problems

Kevlisa

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I'm having a problem with the Z bar/clutch rod/clutch fork on my 70 road runner. I'm 99% sure the bellhousing, fork, Z bar and clutch rod are the correct parts but I can't get the rod to line up with the fork. Can anybody supply some photos of their setup? I used the lower hole for the ball stub in the bellhousing. The upper hole seems to knock the Z bar out of whack. The lower hole sets the Z bar too low to line up with the fork. Any suggestions or photos are much appreciated.
 
I'm having a problem with the Z bar/clutch rod/clutch fork on my 70 road runner. I'm 99% sure the bellhousing, fork, Z bar and clutch rod are the correct parts but I can't get the rod to line up with the fork. Can anybody supply some photos of their setup? I used the lower hole for the ball stub in the bellhousing. The upper hole seems to knock the Z bar out of whack. The lower hole sets the Z bar too low to line up with the fork. Any suggestions or photos are much appreciated.
Go to Brewer Performance web site. They show pictures and what the part fits . Maybe you have something mis matched. Very easy for that to happen........................MO
 
10.5" aluminum bellhousing.
 
What everyone said above. Also know that the clutch adjuster rod (the part you run the nut up on to adjust pedal engagement) hits the clutch fork at an angle, hence why it's got a bend to it.
 
I had the similar issue; the Z bar was wrong. So verify all your parts first.
 
I had the similar issue; the Z bar was wrong. So verify all your parts first.
Even something as trivial as the clutch fork pivot inside the bellhouse. It must be the correct one for the correct clutch fork. Guess how I found that out................MO
 
Can anyone tell me how hard it is to depress their clutch pedal ? Mine seems very hard or maybe I am just weak.
 
Can anyone tell me how hard it is to depress their clutch pedal ? Mine seems very hard or maybe I am just weak.

You might start by describing what clutch setup you have and if your over-center spring is still installed. What are you working with?
 
diaphragm clutch, no OC spring installed. Rochester Clutch took the stock clutch and rebuilt it. I had the wrong Z bar that Brewers identified when I sent them pics and measurements. Installed the right Z bar, helped some but still very hard to push in.
 
diaphragm clutch, no OC spring installed. Rochester Clutch took the stock clutch and rebuilt it. I had the wrong Z bar that Brewers identified when I sent them pics and measurements. Installed the right Z bar, helped some but still very hard to push in.
Firm but consistent through? Compared to modern, yes. Clutch in the new Challenger reminds me of Mickey Mouse by comparison. Z Bar is a precision job. I had a Mopar expert install mine after original failed. I handed him tools. Took a while to get it right.
 
Firm but consistent through? Compared to modern, yes. Clutch in the new Challenger reminds me of Mickey Mouse by comparison. Z Bar is a precision job. I had a Mopar expert install mine after original failed. I handed him tools. Took a while to get it right.
Did you learn anything or just hand out tools?
 
Did you learn anything or just hand out tools?
Learned to stay out of the way of the Master. Z Bar lasted 45 years. 180k miles. Doubt the job will need to be done again.
 
I am here to learn from people like 3 B.
 
diaphragm clutch, no OC spring installed. Rochester Clutch took the stock clutch and rebuilt it. I had the wrong Z bar that Brewers identified when I sent them pics and measurements. Installed the right Z bar, helped some but still very hard to push in.

Are you SURE that clutch pressure plate is a diaphragm and not a B&B style? This, "took the stock clutch and rebuilt it", has me asking the question. The (bi-directional) over center spring assists the operator to overcome the B&B plate spring loads and pedal return to the up stop.
As I understand, the diaphragms have much less peddle effort so there is no need for an over center spring. Get under there, make sure your fork is on the pivot correctly and the fork tips are on the release bearing pads. It's real easy to miss one of the tips on the pads if your bearing twists on you during trans install. And it always seems to be the top side that misses.
 
Actually, it is a B&B Borg and Beck. So, I was wrong.
 
I am here to learn from people like 3 B.
Its hard to learn if your not willing to get dirty.
Can anyone tell me how hard it is to depress their clutch pedal ? Mine seems very hard or maybe I am just weak.
If its factory build up those leg mussels and just hope you don't blow out a knee.
 
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