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Dynamat, HushMat, FatMat..... ever tried this stuff?

Kern Dog

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I'm looking to improve the driveability of the Charger and the road noise is one area that can certainly use improvement. I have read in magazines about the adhesive backed matting products but I don't recall reading anything from people who added it to their own cars.
Have you tried it? I'm interested to learn how much you actually need, where you used it, what it cost and if it made a noticeable difference. Was it worth the money?
Thanks! Greg
 
I used Dynamat for the whole interior of my coronet. In my opinion it is well worth it. I did not do the inner portion of the doors just in case I ever needed to get in there again. Dynamat is sticky *** stuff. I only did the roof and the floorpan. You can get the bulk pack at Amazon.com which covers 36 sq. ft. so it depends on what you wanna cover. It is easy to install.
 
i have also done it, very well worth it.
dynamat - inside car behind doors they do different thicknesses (smaller for door panels)
dynaliner for under the bonnet and behind firewall etc.

make sure before laying on the steel of the car there is no moisture and there is no possible way of moisture getting under it. put on painted surface etc. cause it can make rust if this happens.

it is a bit expensive they have packs that say for a full car but there is never enough in it, better to buy 2 and have soe spare if you know what i mean.
 
Thanks guys!
 
yo gregc.....yes dynamat is expensive.....i just did the Javelin 4 days ago and heres what i did saved TONNNNN of money.

go to lowes...they have this silver stuff in a roll in the insulation section. i got the 16" x 25' roll. get some clear silicone and use that as adhesive ( it sticks great and comes off easily if need be). i did the whole floor of the Jav in an hour...cutting to fit of course.

that silvery stuff at lowes is kinda like bubble wrap with silver backing on both sides i paid $14.00......same stuff they sell on EBAGG they are selling for sound insulation for cars at $89.00. i put the carpet in and i was done....total cost was 3 tubes of clear silicone 21.00...and the insulation at 14.00
 
got hush matt on my car and it works just perfect ....sticks like hell to
 
I don't know about the rest of it, but the dynomat comes in sized sections to do the whole interior or trunk space, etc. You can do the whole car for a little under 300 bucks. I think it's pretty damned reasonable for what it does.
 
I've used Dynomat in a few cars. Easy to install. On a 71 Cuda resto-mod I used about 200lbs of the stuff. Did everything. Doors. Firewall, Complete floor and all the way up behind the rear seat. Roof. Quarter areas. Made for a real nice ride. 528 Hemi and as quiet as a Benz inside.
 
Not to Hyjack, but, has anyone used Lizard Skin spray-able stuff?
 
"that silvery stuff at lowes is kinda like bubble wrap with silver backing on both sides i paid $14.00......same stuff they sell on EBAGG they are selling for sound insulation for cars at $89.00. i put the carpet in and i was done....total cost was 3 tubes of clear silicone 21.00...and the insulation at 14.00"

tpodwdog: So do the kids jump up and down on your floor boards and listen for the popping bubbles? lol
 
"that silvery stuff at lowes is kinda like bubble wrap with silver backing on both sides i paid $14.00......same stuff they sell on EBAGG they are selling for sound insulation for cars at $89.00. i put the carpet in and i was done....total cost was 3 tubes of clear silicone 21.00...and the insulation at 14.00"

tpodwdog: So do the kids jump up and down on your floor boards and listen for the popping bubbles? lol


no,,,,firstly im ALLERGIC to kids.....and secondly....it does not "POP"..like you think it would....coz i tried .
 
I am using the eastwood product thermacool, to do a real good job it takes a lot of cuts to do all of the compound curves. I am using two layers on the whole floor and did one in the roof. First I cleanedout every bit of rust off the floor and then sealed it. then before laying the product I go over it with acitone to get it real clean and grease/oil free.In those little 1/2 in wide valleys and in the body plugs I put in a couple of layers to bring the surface close to flush. I wanted to insure Complete adhesion with NO gaps for condensation to promote rust. I crossed all seams, just cause I thought it was a good idea. I would defeanetly not go near the bubble wrap I have it and use that to insulate my garage door. The heat drop is fantastic sound deadneing is real good. And if you keep your eye out you can find it on ebay from eastwood at a big saving and they pick up the frieght too, Good price. What ever you use make sure it has a buytle rubber back and not an asphalt compound backing. With all those compound curves it is a big job. But when I am done I will have a cool quiet comfortable car and it also is a big plus for your sound system.
 
Can you show the link on the lowes site? I want to check this stuff out
 
Jess, do you mean "thermo-coustic"? I've been thinking about using one of these products but have heard horror stories about it melting and dripping when it gets really hot. Anyone experience this or can debunk it? Check out the link, some of the comments were left by guys that had the milting issue.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-thermocoustic-material.html
 
I used a very similar hardware store solution I found by searching a Corvette forum. Made for window insulation. Only around 1/16 thick, but keeps out moisture and deadens sound. Purchased at Home Depot. Did the inside doors, carpet, trunk area. Works well, considering it is trying to hide a 3" exhaust note with a solid lifter camshaft. Can have an ordinary conversation with the windows up, just don't attempt to roll'em down!
 
I only added about 20 or so pounds worth :headbang:

Luckily, it has already been on a diet and lost a few hundred pounds..
 
I just cant help but think 30 years from now car collectors will be cursing us as they kill themselves removing all that sound deadener... kinda like we curse Bondo from the 80's.
 
I just finished my 71 roadrunner I used B-quiet:

It took almost a full 3 rolls of B-Quiet. For further reference it took:
1 roll did the roof, doors, and inner fenders to the trunk on the car
1 roll did the firewall to the rear passenger seats flooring
last roll did the trunk and any little place I missed with some spare left over!
I added close to 90lbs to my car but its all good weight? :)
I Think it took about 30 hrs to do the installation...
I also used aluminum foil tape to tape up all the seams in case you were wondering....
total cost just under $400

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Then I put ontop an aluminum bubble wrap (foil on both sides) for added sound deadner and insulation seeing how it weighs nothing at all, I'm just using it it on the roof, doors, and firewall...

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