What 440 block is best?

[daytona kid]

I've heard that around 1972 and up 440 blocks are better than earlier years because of some improvements made by Chrysler.. Is that true? I may be looking for a 440 block to build a stroker motor and want to get the best available for the job.

 

[benno440]

74 + blocks are classed as "water blocks" as they have larger water/coolant openings (improved cooling). earlier blocks supposedly have higher nickel content in the casting.

440 source did a test on a large number blocks and found no difference.

http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm

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my stroker 505 is a 76 block

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Best way would be to get a few sonic test them and pick the one with thickest cyl. walls and least core shift all this can get involved buying selling sonic testing :shruggy:. The real early ones are missing a rib on the side.

 

[cdr]

i like using the 400 block to build a stroker.

 

[daytona kid]

i like using the 400 block to build a stroker.

I've heard other guys say that. Why?

 

[Seax440Dodge]

largest stock bore, shorter deck, a little easier to fit in places than an rb, shorter intake passage's are supossed to be better for higher rpm power, better block ridgidity.... it's a VERY popular combo so parts are easy to find and don't cost an arm and a leg... and typically the 400 is the red headed stepchild in the big block world, so they're CHEAP to get ahold of... a few years ago I was on a bb collecting spree... I was typically paying around $400 or 500 for a complete 440, and was getting complete 400's for $200

 

[iraqivet01]

I read that awhile back about 400's.

 

[cdr]

yep what seax440dodge said + lighter rotating assy & also the block is lighter.

 

[Car Nut]

I read that awhile back about 400's.

Same here.

 

[mopar12372]

you can make alot of power with both get a 68 up block have it tested

 

[dvw]

Any 440 block can be good, or bad. A sonic check and magnaflux will tell. A 440 is cheaper if your using a stock crank and rods. If not a 400 is a better bet. Same check out procedure applies.
Doug

 

[mike71ssp]

the best engine is a well used seasoned one. Which I would think,is all of um.... Stroking a motor puts strain on rotating parts, ie Crank. 72 up engines were detuned flat pistons etc, same blocks.

 

[Budnicks]

largest stock bore, shorter deck, a little easier to fit in places than an rb, shorter intake passage's are supossed to be better for higher rpm power, better block ridgidity.... it's a VERY popular combo so parts are easy to find and don't cost an arm and a leg... and typically the 400 is the red headed stepchild in the big block world, so they're CHEAP to get ahold of... a few years ago I was on a bb collecting spree... I was typically paying around $400 or 500 for a complete 440, and was getting complete 400's for $200

yep on all accounts
the 383-400 blocks has a Smaller main bore,
equates to a beefier bottom end block strength,
stronger webbing than the 440/RB blocks also....

a block girdle & studs with a fresh line hone/bore after installation,
is also a good idea, especially with a stroker,
but good for any performance based BB Mopar Wedge...

 

[Michael789]

The differences between blocks is in the main bearing saddles and support webbing as far as strength goes, the 400 is massive compared to the 440 and 383. The 383 has the smallest of the three. Thats why most people say go with the 400 if you want to build a stronger motor or a stroker.

 

[daytona kid]

Will my 727 trans bolt to 400?

 

[HT413]

Will my 727 trans bolt to 400?

Yep, so long as it's a big block 727.

Regarding the best block, unless you plan to push the block to its limits day in and day out, they're all the same. Everything said up above, while all true, isn't worth a hill of beans for a 030 over street build.

The best block is the one with the lowest price tag so long as it is usable.

 

[MarPar]

Yep, so long as it's a big block 727.

Regarding the best block, unless you plan to push the block to its limits day in and day out, they're all the same. Everything said up above, while all true, isn't worth a hill of beans for a 030 over street build.

The best block is the one with the lowest price tag so long as it is usable.

x2 good man.

get a good deal on a clean block and throw your dough at everything else...you're guna need it! lol

 

[daytona kid]

Buying a used block seems like a gamble to me. How can you tell they're usable without all the tests?

 

[snakeoil24]

This is a very interesting discussion, keep in mind we are talking about blocks that are now on average 44 plus years old. What do you think it must be like to deal with many years of Hot cold cycles? I would consider a World casting Block considering the amount of money a stroker will cost to build.

 

[451Mopar]

I don't think there is much difference in the blocks. Later engines had induction hardened valve seats in the heads.
In my very general opinion, the stock blocks are good for around 600+ HP with lighter pistons and good rods and rod bolts.
At 700+ HP, stronger main caps and girdle, and enlarged oil passages. These modifications (parts and machining) can start getting expensive.
At 800+ HP, The cost of an aftermarket block starts to make sense at these higher power levels.