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General Thermostat Question

Super-Bee-69

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I'm no mechanic and just try to learn and unterstand more of my car and how it works, so don't kill me:

When I run my 383 with a 180° stat at 195° - will it run with a 160° stat at about 175° or just climb a little slower to the 195° cause that's the max cooling capacity of my actually system??

I know the stat's temp is the minimum temp when it opens and 180° stats are recommended in average situations.
Just wonder, if it can shift the overall temp or could one run constantly about maybe 165° or so with an 180° t-stat??
 
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It will take a little longer to get to 195 most likely, Wouldn't to try it but I'm thinking your cooling system is a little off like you mentioned but 195 really isn't bad at all unless you are having ping issues.
 
Whatever the stat is rated at is when it should open letting cooled water into the motor or should I say let's the hot out. Your motor running hotter than the stat likely means your cooling system isn't capable of keeping it at 180 but 195 isn't bad, just keep it well below boiling.
 
Ok. Understand that.
Got a new standard US Radiators 22" rad, new water pump, new shroud, new 180 stat, new Radiator cap, steel fan, good hoses, green ready mix coolant and had the engine flushed with water. The old coolant was green and not rusty or oily.
Fan is under 2" away from radiator. Timing of distributor seems fine, too.
So, where is they key to run it around 180°??
And is it possible to get the temp to 180° when the temp just opens at this degree?
 
How do you know the temperature? Are you using the gauge on the dash or a thermal gun to check it
 
Got an Autometer gauge with the sensor at the water pump housing and double checked the temp with a thermal gun at this location.

- - - Updated - - -

For my understanding: could one run constantly about maybe 165° or so with an 180° t-stat??
 
Cooling problem

I have never had a car with 22 inch radiator that was not borderline on cooling.
 
So, you think there's no way to get a 22" car in cool degrees? There are a lot of them out there, all with the same issue?
 
I've got a 180 Stant Superstat and temp on gauge runs 170 when cruising. Get a laser temp gun to be sure of readings.
 
I've got a 180 Stant Superstat and temp on gauge runs 170 when cruising. Get a laser temp gun to be sure of readings.

already did that:

Got an Autometer gauge with the sensor at the water pump housing and double checked the temp with a thermal gun at this location.

- - - Updated - - -

For my understanding: could one run constantly about maybe 165° or so with an 180° t-stat??
 
My conclusion by now:
The capacity of the cooling system is defined by running no stat and to set the min degree of the system, I choose the t-stat of the temp i'd like to have it?! Right?
Ergo, if my system is running at 195° with a 180° stat, it would do also with 160° stat, because the system has it's limits on cooling by another issue and will never ne able to reach cooling regions in 170° aera or so??
 
You seem to want the motor to run at a temperature less than 180*. Running at 165*-170* is not a good idea, as the motor does not get hot enough to get rid of internal condensation. If your system will keep the temperature between 180-210*, running anti-freeze, you are good to go. If it goes above 210* on a regular basis you might look into alternatives to lower the temperature. This forum is loaded with solutions if you do a search. Good luck.
 
Ok. Understand that.
Got a new standard US Radiators 22" rad, new water pump, new shroud, new 180 stat, new Radiator cap, steel fan, good hoses, green ready mix coolant and had the engine flushed with water. The old coolant was green and not rusty or oily.
Fan is under 2" away from radiator. Timing of distributor seems fine, too.
So, where is they key to run it around 180°??
And is it possible to get the temp to 180° when the temp just opens at this degree?


Factory pulleys? A/C or no A/C? What style fan?
 
You seem to want the motor to run at a temperature less than 180*. Running at 165*-170* is not a good idea, as the motor does not get hot enough to get rid of internal condensation. If your system will keep the temperature between 180-210*, running anti-freeze, you are good to go. If it goes above 210* on a regular basis you might look into alternatives to lower the temperature. This forum is loaded with solutions if you do a search. Good luck.

Think you got me on the right track!!
 
You seem to want the motor to run at a temperature less than 180*. Running at 165*-170* is not a good idea, as the motor does not get hot enough to get rid of internal condensation. If your system will keep the temperature between 180-210*, running anti-freeze, you are good to go. If it goes above 210* on a regular basis you might look into alternatives to lower the temperature. This forum is loaded with solutions if you do a search. Good luck.

Very informative reply ColradoDave . . .

Interestingly, had a very similar situation with my 1966 ShoeBox . . . Original Owner swapped the 180 to 160 because it was running hot.

1 - agreed - not good, the engine likes it hotter and you're not getting rid of any excess water
2 - in the winter time, there was not much heat to be able to warm up the car

What I finally found out - the carb was not set up right, it was running too lean or rich ( don't recall ) and once I got it adjusted "better", and swapped the thermostat back to the 180 . . . the car runs 180 all day long and provides plenty of heat into the car in the winter time. In addition, the performance of the car seems to be a "bit" better too with the car running at 180 . . .

Oh, with the 160 thermostat, it would still climb above 200 in the Summer if I got stuck in traffic . . .
 
I have never had a car with 22 inch radiator that was not borderline on cooling.
If set up correctly a 22" 3 core will cool a big block 4 spd car with no difficulty. Have done it so I know it can be done. Will even handle an automatic with an external cooler.
 
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