pirate jack brakes

[moparjohnny]

has anybody tried their brake parts yet? what your thinking about their products. thanks

 

[hunt2elk]

I have their front disc kits on both my cars and have been satisfied with them.

 

[khryslerkid]

How about this vender? Almost looks like the same kit. I like to stay away from china.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/361493275287?NAV=HOME

 

[DrewTX]

I've posted the thread multiple times today, but want no one to miss this at it is potentially very dangerous and could result in a failed wheel bearing. See below.

IF YOU HAVE PIRATE JACK ROTORS...READ THIS! DANGEROUS! Today, I planned on installing new drilled slotted front rotors for my 1971 Charger that I purchased from Pirate Jack. They are part number 5314RX and 5314LX and fit 1962-1972 Mopar B&E Body. I did not want to use the preinstalled bearing races (also called cups) that come with the rotors, as overseas manufactures will use the cheapest available. I removed the inner race to install an SKF bearing race (part number BR6) and realized the diameter is different. The correct race OD is 59.1mm and Pirate Jack's are 59.95mm. Ok, this seems like nothing but the correct race is completely loose and will not stay secure in the rotor. Also the correct ID of the race should be 48.2mm, but Pirate Jack's is 49.2mm which means the bearing is riding incorrectly in the race. This could EASILY lead to dangerous failure! As I have two new inner bearings (left and right) I took the photo below showing the bearing seated in Pirate Jack's race (left) and the correct race (right). You would not likely notice this unless you removed the preinstalled race.

Thoughts or feedback on this?

 

[MoparMitch]

Hmmm....

 

[BeeKool]

I converted brakes on my Bee manual to power. Needed the adapter (fulcrum linkage) to attache my pedal to booster. Looked into pirate jacks. Found what appeared (and stated) was the cure to my problem. Part no. BPRP6570 and promised easy installation.

Not so. Even without a dash, seats or steering column it became apparent that it wouldn't work. None of the holes lined up with firewall or booster bolts. I would have needed to take a Sawzall to the existing dash supports and weld the bracket in there. It has only been a month and I haven't inquired about returns yet. It only cost 85$ which was the same price that I got the fulcrum linkage (used but good) from a fellow FBBO member. I'm a bit pissed because it also cost valuable time waiting for the part. It also was deceitful in what it said the part was. I will think twice about ordering from there again

 

[ws23jrt]

Hmmm....

I agree. There are now three threads close together from three different folks that start with "Pirate Jack" and they are all about negative issues.

 

[BeeKool]

So it's not just a clever name. I kinda wondered why a brake company would call itself "Pirate Jack". Now we know why, cuz they're theives.

 

[DrewTX]

I think I've figured this out. The Pirate Jack's race has the following printed on it: "China L68111" which crosses to an SKF BR17 bearing/race set used in 1973 and up Chrysler products. It looks like they've used the wrong race. It is approximately 1mm larger and the mating bearing is not interchangeable. As I mentioned before, I would not have likely noticed this if I had not removed the original Pirate Jack's rotor race to replace it with a quality SKF.

Incorrect:
BR17 bearing-race dimensions:
Outer Diameter (in) 2.3612
Pirate Jack's rotor. 1973 and later Chrysler/Dodge.

Correct:
BR6 bearing-race dimensions:
Outer Diameter (in) 2.328
1972 and earlier Chrysler/Dodge.

 

[DrewTX]

I confirmed my details above are correct and Pirate Jack has revised their website. Their website now details the rotors are for 1973 and up (previously detailed 1962-1972 B/E body). I'm not sure there's a big market for 73 and up, but that's up to them. So, if you have a Pirate Jack disk brake conversion kit on your 1962-72 Mopar, it uses the rotor for 1973 and up (TIMKEN SET17 or SKF BR17 inner bearing). Pirate Jack was great and gave me a full refund and didn't require me to return the rotors. So, I've got a beautiful pair of drilled and slotted rotors for a 73 and up if you're in the Dallas-Fort Worth area...
So, I plan to try a pair of CENTRIC from Rock Auto. I have not decided if I will get the drilled and slotted ($96 each) or just the standard ($55 each). These are also made in China, but unfortunately there's no other option at this time. Any thoughts on this?

 

[munger77]

im having serious issues installing their perfect fit b-body conversion kit from manual to power.

Kit doesnt even come close to fitting the bracket on my firewall. So I'm wasting a lot of time and $$ trying to hire someone to fabricate it to make it work. Pretty pissed right now, which is a rarity for me.

 

[flypaper]

Drilled and slotted rotors are a waste
On the street
Are you building a dedicated circle track car?
Buy solid
more surface area = better stopping

 

[munger77]

Im installing 306 power booster kit from pirate check site; i already have coverted the front to discs, just want the car to stop using vacuum assist boost.

 

[munger77]

BeeKool,
can you tell me more about the fulcrum linkage and how you eventually connected your brake pedal itself to the bracket under the dash; I'm trying to avoid cutting my pedal arm 2 inches from the top and welding it to their inferior product.

 

[BeeKool]

BeeKool,
can you tell me more about the fulcrum linkage and how you eventually connected your brake pedal itself to the bracket under the dash; I'm trying to avoid cutting my pedal arm 2 inches from the top and welding it to their inferior product.

I will try to find pictures.
Throw that Pirate Jack stuff in the scrap pile.
The linkage is what you need.
Post a WTB thread and somebody will sell you one. They are fairly easy to figure out.