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Adjustable pinion snubber from Mancini. Got one coming and ??

biomedtechguy

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I would like to know a "starting point" adjustment for when I install it.
Screenshot_20180515-163840_Chrome.jpg

Got their driveshaft safety loop coming too.
It's the one that attaches to the transmission mount.
Screenshot_20180515-163950_Chrome.jpg

I'm going to order Viking 19 way double adjustable front shocks and still need some cheap 3 way adjustable rear shocks like these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-2730
Going cheap on the rears because the Street Lynx 4 link rear suspension is what I've decided to do vs a full CalTracks setup. The REAL 4 link that ditches the leafs entirely is only 33% more money ($2k) vs the full boat CalTracks setup at appx $1500.
The Street Lynx uses 19 way double adjustable struts, so going cheap in the meantime.
Looking for better traction w/the snubber and shocks until I replace my front and rear suspension.
 
I've had experience with the adjustable pinion snubber on a street driven car, and even at it's lowest setting, any decent bump would cause it to contact the body.
 
For street driving I leave a half inch. Racing is usually touching.
Thanks for the replies.
Lelo 500- lots of or occasional contact with the body when set for street driving??
Lelo 500 and 67 GTX-
Did you have the pin through holes adjustable snubber or the screw adjustable type I got?
How did it affect traction when set up and used at the track?
Thanks.
 
Thanks for the replies.
Lelo 500- lots of or occasional contact with the body when set for street driving??
Lelo 500 and 67 GTX-
Did you have the pin through holes adjustable snubber or the screw adjustable type I got?
How did it affect traction when set up and used at the track?
Thanks.

The same one in the pic you posted. Do you have a dana? Not sure if it matters, but I do.
It was set to give as much of a gap as possible, and at any decent bump, there was contact, which prooved to be very uncomfortable, so I removed it.
 
I seem to recall the old Direction Connection manual suggested 1" to start. Tighten as needed. The snubber will contact the body from both rotation of the diff (which limiting the rotation of the diff is a purpose of the snubber) and from suspension travel. Mine used to bang on the street.
 
Thanks for the replies.
Lelo 500- lots of or occasional contact with the body when set for street driving??
Lelo 500 and 67 GTX-
Did you have the pin through holes adjustable snubber or the screw adjustable type I got?
How did it affect traction when set up and used at the track?
Thanks.
For me I hear it on the larger bumps only. XHD springs and MP shocks. Mine is the same except it's for the 8 3/4 (fully adjustable). The pinion snubber is Mopar's version of traction bars.
 
Do you have a dana?
Yes. V-code 4 speed (now Passon 5 speed) 70 Roadrunner Track Pac car.
This snubber is until I go to the Street Lynx 4 link. May be an incentive to get the Street Lynx with all the "banging" y'all have indicated. I'll report back.
 
I seem to recall the old Direction Connection manual suggested 1" to start. Tighten as needed. The snubber will contact the body from both rotation of the diff (which limiting the rotation of the diff is a purpose of the snubber) and from suspension travel. Mine used to bang on the street.

I have the exact same snubber and I'm going to install it. When you say 1" do you mean unscrew it so there are 1" of thread exposed? or when car is level, unscrew it so there is 1" of clearance from floor board?
 
Agreed. 1/2 for street, you can adjust it down if need be. But IMO, a 1/2 is a good starting point. Then, just barley touching for the track. The rubber subber should make contact squarely against the floor.
 
I have the exact same snubber and I'm going to install it. When you say 1" do you mean unscrew it so there are 1" of thread exposed? or when car is level, unscrew it so there is 1" of clearance from floor board?
The dimensions being suggested are from top of the snubber to the point of contact (i.e., floorboard). Yes, the car should be sitting level on the wheels when the snubber is adjusted.
 
I've run about 1" snubber to floorboard clearance on street cars since the early 80's (per Direct Connection book). I rarely have had bumps make it contact (super stock springs), BUT I have pounded the floorboard hard enough that I need to add a "Hemi pinion plate" to the floorboard. Dropping the clutch at 4000rpm will do that. I mainly added the pinion snubber to prevent wheel hop & it worked.
 
Most racers ditch the pinion snubber if they have super stock springs or Cal Tracs.
If you want traction, in my opinion, Cal Tracs are the ONLY way to go...except for true 4 link or ladder bars.
 
Most racers ditch the pinion snubber if they have super stock springs or Cal Tracs.
If you want traction, in my opinion, Cal Tracs are the ONLY way to go...except for true 4 link or ladder bars.
That's my future plan. A Street Lynx 4 link system.
$72 for a snubber in the meantime is cheap and effective enough to help until I do the rear suspension swap.
 
I agree! It is inexpensive and effective. As mentioned earlier, adding a plate to the contact area should be done. I did forget about that. Sorry.

While it is easy to just quickly mention a much more expensive & effective set up, it doesn’t deal with the OP’s current position and question.
 
What the snubber did for me was eliminate the occasional axle hop-hop-hop..which is great, but my car still struggles with traction on the street tires..as to be expected. I drove around quite awhile with the snubber touching the floor and the slightly harsher rear didn't bother me, I currently have it about 1-1/2" down for family cruising. I personally like them either touching, or far enough away to still stop the hop but not smack the floor on every bump
 
What the snubber did for me was eliminate the occasional axle hop-hop-hop
That is one big reason why I got it. I never had noticeable axle hop until last week at Brainerd. I guess my Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials got some bite there and I could feel the hop. The snubber could help prevent damage due to axle wind up too I would imagine, along with traction improvement.
 
That is one big reason why I got it. I never had noticeable axle hop until last week at Brainerd. I guess my Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials got some bite there and I could feel the hop. The snubber could help prevent damage due to axle wind up too I would imagine, along with traction improvement.


The extended length shocks that you picked out should help with that too.
 
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