@bobtile has a Gerst Front Chassis Components
in his 9 sec. 67 Barracuda
not sure what brand he has out back
Gerst rear tri-4 link system {looks a lot like the Ridetech to me}
this is the Gerst GTS Rear below
$1845-$2295
Ride tech is another
the Pro-Touring guys rave about them
not as racy maybe, looks a lot like the same deal to me
but easily street-able & street/strip worthy
$1400 for a B-body without shocks
there's other or adjt. ends optional IIRC
ridetech 2" adj. coil overs , there's better out there too
or the Shockwave air-suspension,
not my 1st choice
the complete kit, it ain't cheap either $5200 for
front & rear kit
with the Shockwave air-shocks/bags
are pricey,
so are the tank & valves IMO
the rest is reasonable priced, if you do different coil-overs
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Disclaimer;
I don't & haven't run either
{I know a few people that did the RideTech}
only a little welding, 4 tabs on the rear axle housing {just like Gerst}
the rest is a mostly bolt on deal
it lowers the car like an 1" IIRC
most all the short upper 4-link, triangulated bars
aren't as good as a real 4-link suspension
{read the short Chris Alston piece in the link}
but far less cutting, welding & fabrication necessary,
let alone real world track worthy adjustability
the big advantage to the triangulated 4 bar/4 link
{GM & Ford style}
is no Panard Bar/Track bar or
Watts Linkage {best for handling},
that controls side to side movements
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Magnum Force & Chris Alston both make
short upper bar style of 4 links too
Chris Alston Chassisworks
{Generic Universal type kit for a GM I'm sure}
here's a great explanation of how each system works
by someone that
knows exactly what they are talking about
I'd listen too & heed his warnings & advice
http://www.cachassisworks.com/stories/techcac-003_web.pdf
short upper bars kit,
so you don't have as much cutting, fab or seat clearance etc.
again not ideal, still a lot of work, cutting welding fab skills etc.
or Ladder bars & coil-overs, panard bar/track bar or watts linkage
X track bar shown
Less cutting & welding involved, than a real 4 link set up
less floor or seat problems
quite a bit of welding still, but not very expensive
Lots of racers still use a tried & true double adj. ladder bar
with great success
{spherical rod ends won't last long on the street 'usually',
albeit I've driven many miles on them, not 50k or something like that,
more like 10k-12k & check them very well & often, or you may regret it}
Magnum Force Racing Pro-Link
Art Morrison Universal type, with a watts linkage
lots of fab & welding needed
{GM Camaro probably in photo} can be adapted easily,
if you have the skills, they may even make a B-Body kit
you'd have to check
QuarterMax RJ Extreme
real truly mega adjustable 4 link mount kit generic/universal
again lots of fab skills & welding involved
like all chassis builder do they make the adj. 4 bars themselves
Competition Engineering 'real' 4 link universal kit,
like $225, lots of fab skills needed
my last RR had Calvert/CalTracs
they work well too, easy peasy install
went 8.58 @ 156, with double adj. Rancho's latter Qa1's
sometime the easiest isn't a bad idea
I'm not saying don't use a 4 link either, but to each their own...
I've debated on going to the RideTech 4 link myself, recently,
If I went to a Strange Dana S-60, latter...
I just recently in the past couple years even heard of
Gerst Suspensions...
@bobtile is really why
I'm not knocking them, I just don't know them...
IMO a 4 link is better, if it's a real true 4 link
& you know what you're doing adjusting them
the tri-4 link are OK but not ideal, nowhere near as adj.
but once you get it dialed in you really don't need much adj.
just a flat or turn here or there unless it's really bad track
or you have a bad rear steer problem,
or a huge difference in rollout side to side
just no panard bar/diagonal trackbar
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a Ladder bar is an easier fit, for a real racecar setup
if you don't have the fab skills, grinding, cutting & welding is required...