009, you can pickup quite a bit of geometry buy working your clutch and shifter linkage by modifying all parts involved and buy taking the slop out of all parts, cutting and welding are required, I shorten the clutch pedal about an inch or less to minamize the throw distance and I modify the torque arm to be 90* to the upper clutch rod and lower clutch rod 90* also. Have a helper actuate the clutch a few times to find center of the throw and saw cut the shift fork to find mid position of the clutch throw to make it 90* also and weld it back together The shifter is the same, first off I shorten my shifter handle a little and cut/reweld/reshape it to fit my body and arm position and you can also space your shifter body further off center a little towards the driver as well as raise the shifter body some to further shorten the shifter length. the shift levers on the trans need to be correct p/n and not all wallered out. You can also get the Hurst bushings on both ends of the shift rods. Making shift rods that are more strait with heim joints on the ends as well as spacing the shifter rods in and or out for a straight/lateral movement. These old units can take a lot of mods and work way better than factory settings. Its all about XYZ movement and or parallel and perpendicular adherence. With shifter in neutral you should be 90* on the trans levers as well as the shifter levers. clean up all extra length of rods levers etc. that's not needed. And a lot of 30 wt. and good hardware including rebuild the torque arm bushings. Another place to pick up some positive geo. is that rubbery bushing/damper system at the end of the lower clutch rod, I take all of that crap off to reduce yet more wasted movement but you need some end play here too. Not to big of deal, just a little time and ingineuity. Makes a heck of a difference. In my world I make a lot modifications I guess.