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Treatment for Ball Joints, U-Joints, Tie Rod Ends Etc,Etc??

Islandkent

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I imagine this must be covered some where but I not sure what to search for. But what does everybody do with these parts? Do you paint them? Sand blast and prime then paint? Clear only? RPM them? Or run them raw? Plating is not a option up here. I understand you would have to take the shields(boots) off and needle bearings out to do any of these options. And do you go to that extreme? I was just wondering what everybody does to keep them looking good and fresh? I see so many pictures on here and the other forums of such beautiful undercarriages. And I would like to do that to mine. Any and all responses would be much appreciated.
I apologize if this question has been asked and I'm beating this subject to death.
Once more thanks for your time and insight.
 
I clean them up then appliance paint them black. Almost like powder coating when it dries.
 
That depends on your type of restoration and the look you prefer...

If staying original to protect the natural finishes I use Boeshield T9....So clean the part appropriately and apply it...If you touch it the. Reapply it.....So far IMHO and I have used everything it has been the best by far.....
 
I'm just finishing my '63 Dodge, and I've tried to match the original Factory colors, on the OE parts. Luckily, I had a survivor available to work from, and most parts were a satin black, on the suspension. I did get a little creative on the updated parts, like the front disc brakes, and the 11" rear drums...
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I all ready have all of the 70/30 black pieces painted. Well most of them anyway. lol And a lot of the "bare metal" and "cast" pieces taken care of. I use the "italic" marks because after many many hours researching on here and other places I have found out what most of the guys are using for proper paint and proper factory look finishes. Right or wrong it's what I have chosen. And being from up here in Canada you can't imagine the hoops we have to jump through to get some of the paint you guys can get south of the border. Mostly everybody does not ship aerosol cans across the border. Contrary to popular belief. I only know of one company that does it. I'm still looking for the proper cosmoline paint to use on my lower control arms. I'm also colored blind so I'm going to have to get someone to hold my hand to pick out some paint. lol It would be much easier if some one could just give me a paint can #. I know you can get that battery terminal protectant that is a close match but it's $50 a can up here on amazon and nobody else seems to carry it. See it's a Canadian thing!

Anyway enough of the rambling. I'm looking for more info on the "moving pieces" so to speak.

Moparnation 74 thanks for the lead on Boeshield. I never heard of it. And you can get that up here on amazon.ca Read a lot of good reviews on it except for the nozzle. lol Lots of unhappy campers there. lol Anyway sounds a lot like RPM (rust preventive magic) they say their stuff lasts for years once you bake and shake lol

Here's a picture of some of my "DONE" parts in my sons old room. He's not moving back in any time soon. lol



0000000000stash.JPG
 
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Thanks for the replies guys. I all ready have all of the 70/30 black pieces painted. Well most of them anyway. lol And a lot of the "bare metal" and "cast" pieces taken care of. I use the "italic" marks because after many many hours researching on here and other places I have found out what most of the guys are using for proper paint and proper factory look finishes. Right or wrong it's what I have chosen. And being from up here in Canada you can't imagine the hoops we have to jump through to get some of the paint you guys can get south of the border. Mostly everybody does not ship aerosol cans across the border. Contrary to popular belief. I only know of one company that does it. I'm still looking for the proper cosmoline paint to use on my lower control arms. I'm also colored blind so I'm going to have to get someone to hold my hand to pick out some paint. lol It would be much easier if some one could just give me a paint can #. I know you can get that battery terminal protectant that is a close match but it's $50 a can up here on amazon and nobody else seems to carry it. See it's a Canadian thing!

Anyway enough of the rambling. I'm looking for more info on the "moving pieces" so to speak.

Moparnation 74 thanks for the lead on Boeshield. I never heard of it. And you can get that up here on amazon.ca Read a lot of good reviews on it except for the nozzle. lol Lots of unhappy campers there. lol Anyway sounds a lot like RPM (rust preventive magic) they say their stuff lasts for years once you bake and shake lol

Here's a picture of some of my "DONE" parts in my sons old room. He's not moving back in any time soon. lol



View attachment 846894
RPM is not the same and does not hold up in comparison.....over the years I have tried 12 different things and Boeshield has beat everything...Furthermore, I have used many cans of T9 and had only one failure.....I returned the one that failed....

My thread here details all the proper natural finishes related to 68-70 B bodies......
 
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So you have tried that RPM stuff eh? And you found that the Boeing stuff works better? Good deal! Yeah I read some of the reviews that the co was good with any problems. They also said to heat it up in warm water to get it to flow better. I do that now with some of the Seymour's stuff. I find that stuff clogs the nozzle pretty good too if it's cold(room temp). I might have to try that out. So you say your thread on this site details everything. I'm going to check that out tonight. Thanks again for the lead on the Boeshield and on your thread. Yes I might be in for late night once I find your tread moparnation74. Any info on the LCA's?
 
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So you have tried that RPM stuff eh? And you found that the Boeing stuff works better? Good deal! Yeah I read some of the reviews that the co was good with any problems. They also said to heat it up in warm water to get it to flow better. I do that now with some of the Seymour's stuff. I find that stuff clogs the nozzle pretty good too if it's cold(room temp). I might have to try that out. So you say your thread on this site details everything. I'm going to check that out tonight. Thanks again for the lead on the Boeshield and on your thread. Yes I might be in for late night once I find your tread moparnation74. Any info on the LCA's?
No problem and glad to help....my thread is the “sticky” at the top in the restoration section...use the “restoration tool” link in the first post to filter your search....

All that info is in there including the lca’s....
 
Great! Thanks for the advice and steering me in the right direction moparnation74. Very much appreciated. Headed there right now.
 
Wow Justin! Simply amazing! I'm only in a few pages around the front suspension section. Nice restoration tool. Really easy to find the section your interested in. Going to go back to page one and going to take in the whole thread. Will take me all weekend. lol
 
Wow Justin! Simply amazing! I'm only in a few pages around the front suspension section. Nice restoration tool. Really easy to find the section your interested in. Going to go back to page one and going to take in the whole thread. Will take me all weekend. lol
Thanks my friend!......Happy to help!
 
Thanks for the tip about the Boeshield T9. Have a spray can of that a friend of mine gave me 3 years ago.
Still sprays. Never new that this would be good to preserve the natural look of metal on parts.
Will be trying it soon.
 
I don't remember the colors but I used two of Eastwoods grays. I painted a dark and then after it dried I sprayed a thin coat of the light. When it was all dry I took a piece of Scotchbright and rubbed over it and it gives a flat 2 tone that is blended. I think it came out perfect for cast.
 
Any info on a match for the paint colour of cosmoline? I'm looking for a paint match sort of a redish orangeish goldish match that looks like cosmoline. I have some spray on cosmoline from Dominion Sure Seal Auto Supply. Looks the right colour but does dry to hard. I can scrape it off with my finger nail and it's been 4 months. Fail
Always checking.
 
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