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Converting to power steering

LT'sCharger

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If we want to convert our 72 Charger Rallye from manual steering to power steering, what all do I need. I know I need a pump and a power steering box. Do I need to replace the column?
I am hoping to pick up some stuff at Carlisle this weekend.
Thanks
 
Main steering shafts are different lengths and the coupler is different also so I would just get a complete column...71 is different as far as ignition key switch the way it locks in so you may want a 72 column if you want to keep the key you have for door locks and ignition switch or you can get the 71 re-keyed. Will need a P/S Pitman also.. You will also need a 2 groove crank pulley for the extra belt and obviously the P/S hoses...
 
You don’t have to get a different column .You can cut the shaft or collapse the inner shaft. Which I would not do. But cutting the shaft to install a flaming river type ujoint is one way to do it. I would have no issues cutting it but collapsing it is dangerous in case of a future collision. The borgensen kit is pretty straight forward and a pretty decent install.https://www.streetmusclemag.com/pro...-82-mopar-steering-box-upgrade-with-borgeson/
 
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On an earlier car I found it easier to change the column shaft alone than deal with painting etc on the whole column.

Double row pulley
Belt
Make sure you have the right year-compatible pump so the pulleys line up.
Box
Hoses
I see pittman arm mentioned. Do some research here, maybe ‘72 does? The older ones certainly didn’t. Mopar parts manual can tell you.
 
Good information above. I have done this swap on my 70. As mentioned, the only difference in column is the center (main) shaft. It "telescopes like an antennae" so that it can collapse during a collision. The "antennae" is held open by two small nylon "break away pins". One half of the shaft is solid (bottom) and the other half is hollow (top).

You can definitely cut down your center shaft. It will be CRITICAL to know the exact length of a power steering shaft. Basically, break those two nylon break-away pins. See if you can push the solid shaft inside the hollow shaft far enough to shorten the overall shaft to the correct length. If not, cut down the solid shaft as needed & slide it back into the hollow half until the overall length is correct.

Lastly, drill 2 holes all the way through both the solid and hollow parts of the shaft, thread the holes, screw in two nylon bolts (plumbing section of hardware store) and cut off any excess part of the nylon bolts so they're flush. Now you just made 2 replacement "break away pins". Re-assemble the column. Done.
 
I would drill some deeper holes if not all the way through where the shear pins were. And then run a nylon bolt all the way through. This way you retain the collapsing shaft.
 
Thanks. I am not at all intimidated by shortening the shaft if that is all it takes. I would definitely do it as to retain the collapsing feature for safety in a collision. I like the nylon bolt idea as the shear pins. All I need for the column in that case is knowing exactly how much to shorten it by.
 
Thanks. I am not at all intimidated by shortening the shaft if that is all it takes. I would definitely do it as to retain the collapsing feature for safety in a collision. I like the nylon bolt idea as the shear pins. All I need for the column in that case is knowing exactly how much to shorten it by.
Depending on which adapter you are using.. The swivel you can hold I assume either one up next to the OE one and size it up that way. You will know about how much to cut off.
 
Pitman is the same on power or manual. I just went the opposite direction. US MOOG pitman was the same part #
 
And nor does the shaft need cut. You can break the column down and pop loose or heat up the nylon/plastic pegs and make it longer or shorter as needed. Its still going to do what it needs to do in a crash
 
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@Denham What’s to disagree? Hopefully it was just fat fingered…
 
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