Thosaf extractor set junk

[MarPar]

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[Davefinan]

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thath ludakwiss

 

[kiwigtx]

thath ludakwiss

You taking the pith?

 

[Davefinan]

Ahh pith on it.

 

[kiwigtx]

Ahh pith on it.

Orange pith....must be dehydrated...

 

[Moparfever65]

I drill with LH bits. A lot of times I think the heat inside helps as the offender sometimes comes out without using an extractor. What a relief

The reason drilling releases a stuck bolt is because the hole allows the bolt to shrink by relieving internal stress. If it's heat you're abusing your drills. BTW, I use extractors regularly and rarely break them. I prefer "square" extractors, as the spiral ones tend to expand the bolts into the wall of the hole, thereby increasing the friction you're trying to overcome. With a square extractor, you just tap it in enough to get a bite, then any rotational force doesn't try to expand the bolt. One other tip is to not drill too large of a hole. That's to help prevent the expansion I'm talking about. At work I'm the "go to" guy for extracting screws.

 

[toolmanmike]

The reason drilling releases a stuck bolt is because the hole allows the bolt to shrink by relieving internal stress. If it's heat you're abusing your drills. BTW, I use extractors regularly and rarely break them. I prefer "square" extractors, as the spiral ones tend to expand the bolts into the wall of the hole, thereby increasing the friction you're trying to overcome. With a square extractor, you just tap it in enough to get a bite, then any rotational force doesn't try to expand the bolt. One other tip is to not drill too large of a hole. That's to help prevent the expansion I'm talking about. At work I'm the "go to" guy for extracting screws.

Absolutely. These are made by Rigid and includes the proper drill bit for each extractor. The set even comes with drill pilots for correct centering. They are splined and don't expand the hole like the tapered ones do. The nut slides down to the surface for more strength and less twist. When the end get's damaged from twisting or slipping, you can grind the bad end off and continue using the tool. These were a very popular sale on my tool truck.

 

[1KoolBee]

Never had an “extractor” remove a frozen/rusted bolt. Best luck I’ve had is welding a nut and carefully heating with an acetylene torch. Old used rod nuts work great for this. Otherwise I center punch, drill, and tap.

 

[Virg464]

If you know someone that works at in a machine shop ask for a 1/4" ball nose carbide end mill, maybe one that has a chipped edge, that they wont use. It will gut a hole into whatever you have stuck in that hole. Just be careful because it will cut anything, what it will get the hard stuff out of the way so you try something else.

 

[dspur]

Absolutely. These are made by Rigid and includes the proper drill bit for each extractor. The set even comes with drill pilots for correct centering. They are splined and don't expand the hole like the tapered ones do. The nut slides down to the surface for more strength and less twist. When the end get's damaged from twisting or slipping, you can grind the bad end off and continue using the tool. These were a very popular sale on my tool truck. View attachment 1944785View attachment 1944793

Best place to purchase?

 

[toolmanmike]

Best place to purchase?

Just check around on the internet.

 

[sam dupont]

eBay. find a 30 year old NOS set. most any USA name brand should be good.

 

[dspur]

Purchased a set on Ebay. Thanks all.

 

[JC Boatguy]

True story. I worked at an automotive machine shop, "Dennis" was dressing an engine, he broke off a bolt in the block and then broke off a tap in the block! Boss comes over says "I thought we agreed YOU SUCK AT THIS"! Boss goes and gets a diamond edge drill bit and drills out the tap, saves the day.

 

[Jam72]

Purchased the set on Amazon a while back. Broke an exhaust stud, drilled it a bit then used the extractor with a 1/2 socket and 3/8 ratchet. Nothing heavy duty. Extractor broke and now I have a bigger problem trying not only get the broken stud out but the extractor piece as well. Evidently Chinesieum junk.

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Yes I have no faith in extractors based on past experience. I discovered a nasty problem with my 72 charger rebuild. It has the back tranny oil cooling attachment broken off with part within the casing wall. I may try gently with an extractor but doubt it will work and don't wish to break it off. I see some have used left hand drills so I will try that. Don't wish to get shavings into the tranny so hopefully the drill will exit the shavings all out ward. Having taken trannys apart, I have often noticed shaving in the bottom, so maybe mine can stand the odd bit of shavings.

 

[toolmanmike]

Yes I have no faith in extractors based on past experience. I discovered a nasty problem with my 72 charger rebuild. It has the back tranny oil cooling attachment broken off with part within the casing wall. I may try gently with an extractor but doubt it will work and don't wish to break it off. I see some have used left hand drills so I will try that. Don't wish to get shavings into the tranny so hopefully the drill will exit the shavings all out ward. Having taken trannys apart, I have often noticed shaving in the bottom, so maybe mine can stand the odd bit of shavings.

All drill bits exit shavings out the back. Good luck with your extraction.

 

[EmitRDetsaw]

I've had great success with everything I've bought that Project Farm recommends. Here is the extractor comparo:

 

[mpgmike]

Recently had a Ram Hemi with a busted exhaust bolt. The owner bought some fancy jig, and then proceeded to gouge out -- not just the busted bolt -- but lots of cylinder head surrounding the bolt. It was towed to our shop for us to fix. I spent way too much time with it. I eventually pulled the head and sent it to a machine shop. Their prognosis was it was too abused for even them to save. The ultimate fix was a new (used replacement) head.

On another note, my co-worker busted a tap in a 350 Chevy block not long before the Ram came in. He didn't futz with it, he asked for help. As mentioned in several previous posts, I welded a nut to the busted tap and -- viola! It twisted right out.

 

[toolmanmike]

Recently had a Ram Hemi with a busted exhaust bolt. The owner bought some fancy jig, and then proceeded to gouge out -- not just the busted bolt -- but lots of cylinder head surrounding the bolt. It was towed to our shop for us to fix. I spent way too much time with it. I eventually pulled the head and sent it to a machine shop. Their prognosis was it was too abused for even them to save. The ultimate fix was a new (used replacement) head.

On another note, my co-worker busted a tap in a 350 Chevy block not long before the Ram came in. He didn't futz with it, he asked for help. As mentioned in several previous posts, I welded a nut to the busted tap and -- viola! It twisted right out.

You are often much further ahead to have the pros do it. Late model exhaust studs breaking were a big issue a few years back. A fellow with a portable tig welder would come to your shop for extraction. Even the ones broken off below the surface he could get. He would weld a puddle onto the stud and work his way out of the bolt hole and weld a nut to it. The studs were just broken and not rusted into the hole, threads pulled, or cross threaded. It depends on what you are dealing with as to how you extract it.

 

[mpgmike]

That almost always works, but not this time.