Recent content by dasol7172

Did you hear anything back.. Believe it or not.. im in this same boat. FBO box, bypassing the resistor and its doing just what you describe. Starts like a champ.. runs, idles and will just cut completely out. Thing i did notice though.. The FBO box has a red light lit when it has power. The...

Not at all what I'm talking about.

As stated in my post. yes.

Is this a indication of not enough grease inside the TO bearing or a worn fork? Clutch pedal feels good when pressing it down in the cabin, however the fork does not pivot backwards beyond i would guess is the midway point? Like instead of see saw action it just acts like a lever and stops mid...

Sounds more like your fuel is boiling and its vapor locking until it cools down. try a 1/2 inch spacer and see if that helps keep the carb a tad cooler.

Are you going right into a stock mopar power steering box? Looking at doing this for my 70 RR.

I will try and eyeball the otherside.. i ran my finger on the slot back and forth and there was nothing in there bolt wise. However.. it could be incorrect in the first place.. Although.. I checked my 69 and it was the same way so not sure. I will double check tomorrow. Thanks for the insight.

on mine the bolt does not got through the slot on there. I thought that originally too.. but i think if i moved it to that then it would be even larger of a space to the brake bolt/pushrod

So i take that its normal and to just adjust as needed.

Its bent so its closer to the bolt and the plunger is pushed in enough to keep the lights off, not that the brake lever is hitting it.

Hello everyone... So got a issue where the plunger on the switch isn't depressed enough after a while as the switch mount arm bends back and it puts the brake lights on. Beyond having to try and adjust the brake pedal pushrod (if possible) and then having to adjust the clutch pedal as it wont be...

Sent you a PM

Nice find!

We were able to do the hand bending of some nickle-copper line and get it all in there. Just have to finish bleeding to be 100%

Wow. Yeah that sounds like a pain in the rear. For mine we got the front driver side bent out and the new front to rear section done. I kept the original pass side and the new(er) rear diff axel lines all in with the new master from the Dr. Diff kit.