Recent content by Gyratingyak

I am running a Jegs dizzy. Seems to be a Mallory clone with the keys to adjust and lock down the advance slots to limit them. I really like it. They were on sale recently. I’ve had it for about 4 years now. But a factory with welded slots is just as good if not better, anything done right paired...

I believe it was cheaper to order directly from him iirc. No Ebay fees tacked on top. But his Ebay store has all of his products, without trying to fit into business phone hours.

$29 for his voltage regulator on Ebay and I purchased his kit minus the dizzy advance limiting plate from him for sub $250. I can’t seem to find my receipt saved to my email folders. I apologize. The Limiter plate and springs is about $45 on Ebay, so minus that.

I talked with Don at FBO and ordered his coil, box and ballast jumper. Instead of using the jumper I gutted a parts store ballast, jumpered the terminals with a 10gauge wire and sealed it back closed to keep the stock look. Once his kit was installed it was very noticeable on cold starting...

The car now. I went with 2” over stock springs from ESPO. Just enough over stock for a tough look, nothing crazy. @R413

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP37053?searchCategory=c3.s5&searchIndex=Universal had them pulled up to get extras lol

Cass said the same to me but wilwood said it was suggested. Honestly I trust cass, but I had an original drum MC and for $14 I just threw it in to have the same effect as my prior set up. It wouldn’t adversely effect it if not needed so just for Insurance I added it. Cass is completely right...

I added a residual valve just due to having an original Drum MC with the original check valves and it worked great. It shouldn’t be needed. I also got the A body prop valve thats a direct swap over from the drum distribution block. If you use an adjustable prop, just use the factory distribution...

The first MC was right stuff. Wouldn’t even bleed because it kept sucking air. They sent me a replacement I didn’t even try to use, too much hassle to fail again. I then got a Doctor diff 15/16” MC. It bypassed, Cass was awesome, but my luck was not. So I got Wilwood. I would still recommend...

15/16” bore. 1” should work, just require more leg haha. Yes I just spliced in the residual pressure valve into the rear circuit. I recommend the Titan Tools flaring tool to make it easy to flare on the car, its night and day to an old style flaring tool.

It definitely was. I would find time to actually tinker and troubleshoot, just to have it fail haha. I finally bit the bullet and got a Wilwood MC instead of using the replacement MCs due to bypassing issues. Definitely get a wilwood MC in my opinion, though I wish a cast iron would of worked...

Well, the Wilwood MC solved my issue. It looks great, but requires an inline 10lb residual pressure valve on the drum circuit according to the literature provided with it. I had one on hand already as part of my troubleshooting. It stops great, consistent pedal and with the new rear shoes snd...

Well I couldn’t get it to bleed properly still. I’m throwing on a Wilwood MC because its still showing the same exact signs as before. I’ll update once it’s complete, been swamped at work and haven’t been able to do anything to the ol girl. I’m having issue but my buddy did the same swap with...

I'm ordering another coil of brake line just in case I have a bad flare. I'm going to check each flare in the system and swap the proportioning valve with another one and then re-bleed the MC. If that doesn't solve it I'm going to Swap an unused 15/16 cast iron MC in after bleeding and test it...