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Oil Consumption Culprit Found?

bobs66440

bobs66440

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Well, as some of you know I've been chasing a 1qt. per 200 mile oil consumption issue and this is what I found when I pulled the intake (at the advice of some of you here). Oil everywhere...on both sides of the pan, a lot inside the intake runners and also the intake ports. Unfortunately much buildup on the intake valves too. There was only the valley pan with no gaskets used except silicone at the front and rear rails and looks like some crusty sealer on there.
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Do you guys think that this could be responsible for that much oil usage? This is the last thing to try before going the rebuild route, which I hate to do because it runs so good...I don't want to open a can of worms (and my wallet). :p
 
DANG! Picture FUBAR...

Based on your description, I'd say yes, absoultely so this could very well be the reason behind mass oil consumption. I also had a similar issue with a small block. The intake was not sealing correctly due to the decks being milled 2 different heights.
 
Big blocks have always been a pain to get the intake sealed properly (and the rear main too). You need to do a super cleaning job. There are paper gaskets available to use with a new bathtub gasket. If you go that route, make sure that you get the thin ones. Use RTV on the pan gasket ends and at the corners. Hopefully, you will no longer be supporting the oil companies. I think Mancini has the paper gaskets as well as new bathtub gaskets. Good luck.
 
I had the same problem...I used edelbrock paper gaskets from summit...You cannot use enough rtv on the corners...There is also a special sealer to use on the paper gaskets..Gasgacinch gasket sealer is the best for the paper gaskets..Especially if you are matching up aluminum heads to aluminum intakes..
Petty Blue 67 GTX
 
1badgtx said:
Gasgacinch gasket sealer is the best for the paper gaskets..Especially if you are matching up aluminum heads to aluminum intakes..
Petty Blue 67 GTX
Click to expand...
Yeah, I read Edelbrock's instructions and they say to use Gaskacinch on the gaskets.
 
I had nothing but problems getting my intake to seal. Using an Eddy RPM on my 383. I started with the Fel-Pro valley-pan and paper gasket set. No luck...twice! Dont know if it was the intake, or something was shaved. One clue was intake bolts were hard to go in with the metal pan and paper gaskets. Final solution was to use the metal pan only,[of course the RTV on the ends and corners] and Permatex Hylomar sealant around all the ports and bolt holes. So far, it has worked well. But why does the intake manifold have oil in the runners? Is it "reversion", or are those the ones closest to the breather/pvc from the valve cover?
 
i'm no expert, but i think i would be checking the valve guides an valve seals also,for wear...just a thought.....good luck....if you look long enough you will find the problem, an fix it...if you don't look the problem will find it self some day...an that will really cost you.
 
chet layne said:
i'm no expert, but i think i would be checking the valve guides an valve seals also,for wear...just a thought.....good luck....if you look long enough you will find the problem, an fix it...if you don't look the problem will find it self some day...an that will really cost you.
Click to expand...
Seals were my first thought. I took it apart and the guides seemed good but the seals were all dried and crumbling. That was it! Right? Wrong. There was no improvement with the new seals. I'm not running a PCV so that can't be it. Checking the valley pan was the last resort before a rebuild. Hopefully this fixes it...
 
For sure you have found the problem!!:munky2:The oil in the intake runner is from reversion.Back in my wedge days I HATED that f'n tin tub-o-%&%$#!!!
 
But why does the intake manifold have oil in the runners?

I've had oil consumption problems like those described here. I think that the oil gets into the runners because the intake manifold vacuum sucks the oil from the valley pan gasket at the bottom edge of the intake manifold port. I've solved my problems by putting a bead of sealant around the intake ports, then install the valley gasket, tighten the end rails, put sealant around the intake port of the valley gasket, then install the intake manifold. At least it's worked for me.

As noted previously, this only works if the heads and intake manifold seat properly. If the heads have been milled too far, then there will be a leak at the bottom of the intake port.
 
Histoy said:
But why does the intake manifold have oil in the runners?
Click to expand...
The oil only went up the runner about 1/4" or so on most of them. I think it just gets a little seepage up the runner because it's so close, it's bound to get something.
 
It is called "reversion".Depending on the overlap of the cam the airflow changes direction in the runner,pulsates in both direction.
 
When the motor is running, is there any smoke, or can you feel air pulsing out of the breather (valve cover)?
 
After you clean everything up nice & purty,lay the intake on the heads and put a few bolts in.Make sure the intake is fully contacting the heads.The angle of your dangle could also be off!
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
After you clean everything up nice & purty,lay the intake on the heads and put a few bolts in.Make sure the intake is fully contacting the heads.The angle of your dangle could also be off!
Click to expand...
I cleaned it all up, put the intake on without gaskets and it contacted the heads good, but the bolt holes didn't line up. So I put it on with two.030 gaskets on each side and they lined up good. I think if I use those along with the valley pan I shoud be ok.
 
69 Runner said:
When the motor is running, is there any smoke, or can you feel air pulsing out of the breather (valve cover)?
Click to expand...
It really doesn't smoke at all while idling or just running easy down the road. Mostly when I let off the gas. When I rev it air/mist comes out of the valve cover. There is some blowby, but not enough to use that much oil. I have oil separators on the valve covers with hoses that run to each air cleaner, but no oil collects in the air cleaner bases.
 
The rear of my valley pan looks the same, probably leaking from the same area. I lose a quart every few hundred miles depending on freeway/road driving
 
Well, the verdict is in...I drove the Charger to work today (100 miles round trip) with the new intake gaskets and...SUCCESS!!! It worked!! Normally it would have used 1/2 quart and this trip it used ZERO!! I'm very happy and thank you to everyone for your help and suggestions!! This is a great Christmas present!! Now I can use the cash to redo the interior!

Turns out there weren't enough gaskets to take up the space and oil and vacuum were leaking (the canted bolts were actually holding the intake up from seating). Unfortunately it's not running as well now, I think due to the fact that the carbs were adjusted for a lean condition...now there's no leak so it's running a bit rich and blubbering a little but that's a relatively easy fix...and it's certainly driveable.

I ended up using one .030 fiber gasket on each side of the pan with Hi-Tack to hold them in place. I also put a bead of Ultra Black silicone on the end rails and corners. I also smeared a very thin coat of the silicine on the very inside sealing edges of the heads and gaskets, trying not to get it near the intake ports.


One lesson I'm taking from this is there isn't necessarily one definite gasket setup that can cover all situations. You will have to experiment to see which will work. It's probably best - as was mentioned - to have the thick and thin gaskets at hand to be ready.

Thanks again!!
 
Last edited:
Sweet...im glad you found it!!!

yeah, with these old gals sometimes you have to massage parts into place...

:tied up:
 
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