440 needs rebuild. BUDGET! Recommendations?

mag82008 · Dec 9, 2010

Hello everybody,

this is a question to the engine specialists
I have a 66 Coronet with a '68 440 engine in it. Block casting is 2536430-7.

This engine starts and runs fine, except that this engine is a little bit - lets say - well advanced in years. It does still not have it's full power, yet.

It has standard 906 Heads, HP exhaust headers, a Weiand 8008 intake with a 4 bbl Holley carb. Electronic ignition is already in place.

I am thinking now about a budget rebuild, means I do not want to spend 10k or more..

I plan to:

Disassemble it
clean it
measure the block, crank etc. by some machine shop
if needed bore and hone (by machine shop)
replace crank, pistons, cam, heads with some nice budget parts
new bearings, gaskets, etc.
assemble it

The reason why I ask now is:

I need some recommendations, what to use for rebuild or stroker kits to have a reliable and almost powerful engine with torque. I want a little bit more stock power for street. No strip or just for fun.

I think options are:

Stroker Kit from 440source
nice crank / cam / pistons from somwhere else?
maybe new heads?
headers?

So what do you think? pls. keep in mind: best power for budget.

Thanks in advance for your help

Martin

69 Runner · Dec 9, 2010

If you're really talking about a stroker kit, that's not a budget build.

polkat · Dec 9, 2010

Even if you don't go the stroker kit, a crank, cam, pistons, new heads, headers, and associated parts will be way beyond any budget power build (or stock rebuild for that matter). You might be able to get by with used parts if you can find what you want, but if you look at the classified section, you'll find that won't be cheap either in todays economy. What do you mean by budget?

Best to plan it out and get your parts as you can. That's how many do it.

super-bee_ski · Dec 9, 2010

I have found that it's always cheaper to go "all the way" now because if you don't, your going to do it some time in the future. Then, you've spent double the money. Go "big" now and get it done. Just my 2 cents worth...
By the way, $10 thousand will get you quite a bit!
Go torque!
Best of luck, keep posting your progress & upgrades!

69 Runner · Dec 9, 2010

Really hard to hurt the crank in a big block Mopar. So unless yours is really trashed, or unless you're gonna do that stroker, there isn't much reason to change it......or more than likely, the rods.

Reusing the crank and rods, no fancy machine work, and certainly none on the heads (unless you do it yourself) you're gonna be spending $2500 +/- on your rebuild anyway

generaljmwlee · Dec 9, 2010

I did a basic rebuild on a 383 with mild cam alum intake and edelbrock carb.and 1 stock piston. for the machine work I had done was clean and check the block,hone the cyl,ground the crank, and had new parts installed in the block. the heads were cleaned new valves and seals,hardened seats and guides,had stock springs checked and reinstalled. all that I am into it about 3,000 to 3,500

74sundance · Dec 9, 2010

69 Runner said:
Really hard to hurt the crank in a big block Mopar. So unless yours is really trashed, or unless you're gonna do that stroker, there isn't much reason to change it......or more than likely, the rods.

Reusing the crank and rods, no fancy machine work, and certainly none on the heads (unless you do it yourself) you're gonna be spending $2500 +/- on your rebuild anyway

69RUNNER is rite.....Just use over sized pistons (hypereutectic) and only punch it out as much as you need to, leave room for another rebuild down the road.You can have the rods resized if needed and continue on with a basic rebuild.It's very likely that the 440 has lost power gradually over time and you wouldn't really notice it..Trust me just a freshening up on a old tired 440 will breath life back into the old girl and you will appreciate the stock power it has to offer,then later when $$$ permit slap on a new top end.(heads,cam,headers,intake).A rebuild will add up fast so be carefull with what your doing.I put over 7g's into my 440-500ci stroker and I did 95% of the work and got deals on parts.

Satellite65 · Dec 9, 2010

Pistons, KB 237's or SpeedPro 2355's (SixPack pistons) and mill the block to get the head of the pistons flush with the deck surface of the block (zero decking). If you should decide at some later date to switch from the open chamber 906 heads to an aluminum aftermarket head with closed chambers you'll already be set up for proper quench using a .040" head gasket. Get the shortblock right and you won't have to touch it for a long time.

Meep-Meep · Dec 9, 2010

Have you done some tests to determine if you need a rebuild? If you do need a rebuild don't get carried away with fancy parts. My 440 has the KB237 pistons with big valve closed chamber heads and it runs very well. If you really want to stay on a budget get factory replacement cast pistons so you don't have to re balance the assembly. Another option is to hone and re ring it if your pistons are good.

mag82008 · Dec 10, 2010

Thanks all of you so far.

I talked to some other Mopar guys and the recommendation that i heard most is to disassemble the engine, and if not needed leave the crank where it is.

New pistons and cam, complete overhaul and port of the heads, new valves if needed

Its similar to what 69runner said..

With "budget" i meant, that I need to spend some money, but not the 10k. I think I will have a budget around 4-5k and this should be enough to " breath life back into the old lady"

I think disassembling will have a more clear view...

Martin

Satellite65 · Dec 10, 2010

$4K-$5K can go a long way. That's not a bad budget to work with. Like I said before, punch it out as little as necessary to get nice clean straight bores and use either the KB 237 or SpeedPro 2355 pistons. Deck the block to get the pistons right at zero. A set of Edelbrock RPM or 440 Source heads milled about .020" should put you somewhere right around 10.5:1 compression. You might even have some money left over.

leadsledfan · Dec 10, 2010

I just rebuilt m7 67 440, I have a 440 source stroker kit (2 grand), 440 source heads ($1000 or $1600 cnc ported) A lunati cam, lifters, timing chain and push rods ($400) Hedman headers ($400) 440 source oil pump, deep sump pan, timing cover, billet dipstick, motor mounts, and intake gasket ($250) and crane gold rocker arms and shaft ($600 and machine work ($500) so im in it about $5500 roughly, and my motor makes about 600 hp and 625 torque on 93 gas

69 Runner · Dec 13, 2010

Unless you're planning on running it more than driving it, I wouldn't waste the money on having the heads ported. It slows the velocity of the intake charge at lower RPM's which costs you on the street.

Instead, I'd have bronze guides installed, along with hard exhaust seats. There are some out there that has an inside diameter that works well with the factory bowls. My 3960# Challenger ran [email protected] with unported heads (no traction either lol)

74sundance · Dec 13, 2010

69 Runner said:
Unless you're planning on running it more than driving it, I wouldn't waste the money on having the heads ported. It slows the velocity of the intake charge at lower RPM's which costs you on the street.

Instead, I'd have bronze guides installed, along with hard exhaust seats. There are some out there that has an inside diameter that works well with the factory bowls. My 3960# Challenger ran [email protected] with unported heads (no traction either lol)

I did the same to my strokers heads,didn't have the extra scratch for new heads so I just built the stockers up a little, manly fluted valves(pro flow shape) 3 angle valve job,big keeper/retainers and I added some 1.5 roller rockers.I did clean the runners up a little but kept them stock shape and size.

daredevil · Dec 13, 2010

this is my budget 440 in my 66 coronet. Cost about 9k to put together. 440 source 4.15 crank ,forged flattops ,0 deck, comp pro magnum rockers ,Solid roller cam, smith bro,s push rods,ported indy ez heads with ferrera valves,milodon external oiling pan and pump. This is a must.Oiling is the weak link on these and a 1/2 inch pickup wont clear the stroker crank. milodon water pump ,m1 intake. I know i,m forgetting things but you get the idea.10k is doable. Oops maybe I shouldnt have posted as i,m not an engine specialist.

Meep-Meep · Dec 13, 2010

Don't over cam it. I'm running low 13's @ 109 in street trim (not drag radials) through a 3" TTI system with a .455" lift / 272 deg cam and an M1 intake (like factory cast iron). As mentioned, it doesn't take much to make a 440 car run.

Cranky · Dec 14, 2010

Low 13's @ 109....wow....you're leaving a lot on the table! You must be tip toeing it off the line lol

69 Runner · Dec 14, 2010

RGAZ · Dec 14, 2010

Cranky said:
Low 13's @ 109....wow....you're leaving a lot on the table! You must be tip toeing it off the line lol

Dang, my 88 Honda CRX custom-turbo ran 13's allday on street tires and sunoco 95. i would have loved to race ya, most 440's would smoke me at the track unless I cranked the boost and use race gas after beatin them at the tree.

Of course, my rex was sleeper, real sleeper. Sold her almost 10 years ago now... anyway. This is all good advice. i am starting a 400 build and I have had similiar suggestions.

Meep-Meep · Dec 14, 2010

Cranky said:
Low 13's @ 109....wow....you're leaving a lot on the table! You must be tip toeing it off the line lol

Yep, tip toe and lots of tire spin. I figure I'm good for a 12.50 with 4.30's if I can hook it up (9" slicks).

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