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Hood stripe painting '69 runner

eagleone1983

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Hey everybody,
When painting the hood stripes on the the car I know I can find the dimensions of them but are you supposed to clear the flat black after you lay it down?

Basically I don't know the procedure but here is how I understand it. First primer, then car color, then clear, then hood stipe, and then clear again? or No?

Also I've been thinking about not going with a flat black but more of a metallic black for the stripes. My truck (Nissan Titan) has a really nice black called Galaxy Black but I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet.
 
Eagleone1983,
I did mine in all flat, no clear on the hood. In the sun, you get the nice reflection showing aspectrum of colors. I have been told it looks really cool.
Just my 2 cents. You can check out the pics
 
there are also matte clears (flat non gloss). but if you do decide to base paint the hood then clear then come back to do the stripes just remember you need to wet sand the clear with a finer grit paper first for the black to stick to it otherwise you can wind up having it start pealing or flaking down the line
 
Well actually it's not me doing the painting I was just asking the question. My paint/body guy told me I can either just spray the flat black stripes and leave as is or he can come back around with some clear. He said clearing the stripes will protect them better but may make them shinier then stock.
 
i did mine in the orginal matte finish the first time and hated it , they get wax in them and are totally a pain to take care of , So in the second restoration go around I made them gloss black & cleared them , they are not stock but they look great and are easy to care for . My 2 cents

my homer.jpg


my R4 highschooler.jpg


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runn4 sal123e.jpg


drivein.jpg
 
i agree with stuart unless you need to have the 100 percent orig. resto i would go with the cleared stripes easier to take care of and still looks great.
 
Yeah I'm not looking for stock by any means. I just want it to look good. I think I'm leaning more towards doing it in a metallic type black like I had originally planned. I know Nissan's got one I like and my neighbor has a pretty awesome black on her G8
 
Matte black on it's own can be a bitch in regards to oxidation and getting wax embedded in the texture of the finish. If you have to have matte I understand the matte clear's work better over black and resist oxidation...

My 2 cent's...Shiny looks awesome...
 
When the cars were new, the stripes were a pain in the A** to keep clean after waxing, but doable when following the manufacturers recommendation on using a brush to wash the wax from the stripes textured paint, however the finished results were some of the best looking paint/graphics ever produced.

If you're going base/clear, I don't know if the same procedure would work for the textured stripes, which is why many just go with a cleared smooth stripe.

Everyone has their own preference, but I consider shiny strips to be unacceptably ugly.

Just look at the new cars. None that I know of have shiny stripes, and instead use stripe tape to achieve the textured/satin look on modern base/clear paint jobs, while maintaining cleanability, and adheasion (Challenger, Mustang, etc).

But don't go by what my opinion is as I hate base/clear anyway. If you get a ding, the whole panel has to be repainted instead of a small fix/mask/spray repair. The sun will shred any clear coat after a few years, you will always get swirl marks in clear from washing, it doesn't have anywhere near the durability/resistance to chips and road wear, the slightest body imperfection is magnified with base/clear, etc.

Keep in mind that base/clear was developed as a cost saving, environmental, and time saving method. After all, you can clear coat single stage if you want to achieve the same ultra glossy look, and do it months after the paint is laid down, which allows you to hone the paint to perfection. Base/clear needs to be done almost simultaneously, and won't tolerate anything other than a slight polish to the clear.

I recommend that you take the time to look at cars done both ways before you decide. I would sell my RR if I had to have shiny stripes, but others would pay to have the stripes shiny. It's just an individuals preference, but can make the difference between loving or hating your finished car.
 
Sorry to poop on your statement here qship but you're 180 degrees wrong about BC/CC. It is far more durable than standard single stage paints and has great UV protectants built into the urethane clear. It does this by isolating the pigments in the paint from the suns rays and the environment. SS paints have the pigments/mettalics right on the surface that oxidize rapidly. BC/CC is actually more expensive and requires more time to apply than standard SS paints as well.
The reason for complete reclearing of a panel is to ensure no peeling will occur after a repair has been done. Blending/spot repairs are more succeptable to peeling/fading at the edges of the blend with SS paint.
I am not saying that SS paints are a poor choice, just want the readership to have the correct information. Some of the first BC/CC's out in the early 80's if not properly applied could delaminate from the basecoat, but today's technologies are nearly goof proof if you follow manufacturers recommendations.
-Cheers
 
66 B Body4ever: I don't think we are really in disagreement as much as we are in radically different climates.

I understand why you prefer BB/CC living in Canada, but I can assure you that in the S.W. U.S. (where the original poster is from), you will find that BC/CC is a cruel joke perpetrated on us. It will fail for certain over time.

BC/CC (base coat / clear coat) was developed to keep down the VOC's (volatile organic compounds), but other than that, there is really not much difference in SS (single stage) and BC/CC paints, as the SS has the clear, with UV protectants, mixed into the paint.

Many people out her will clear their SS paints for the ultra glossy look, but suffer the downsides of BC/CC at that point, others will mix in additional clear/hardener for high gloss, without the weakness of a CC.

Of course BC/CC is more expensive, as what used to be a single combined mixture, has to be packaged, and applied as two (actually more) separate processes, in a very limited time frame.

All that this "improved?" process has done is to increase the cost of a paint job for the restorer, increase insurance rates for all cars, create a number of lawsuits against auto manufacturers due to failed paint (when was there ever a lawsuit or recall with SS paint?), but the EPA is happy because the VOC's are reduced by about %15.

If I lived in a non sun intense climate, I would probably prefer the BC/CC paint as it is much easier to apply ---- YES IT IS ----, but you still have the added hassle and cost of panel painting for what used to be a simple driveway ding repair. The plus side of a cold climate is that a collector car will probably only see 30 to 60 days of (limited) sun per year, whereas a sun belt car can see over 300 days of constant sun. This extended use time not only exposes the paint to much more (and far more intense) sun, but also exposes the car to a much greater risk of dings.

I guess it is a mater of preference, just like the OP's question about stripe texture, with the radical differences in environment thrown in. For a new car that will be traded in every 3 to 5 years, BC/CC is great, but it will never live in the long run in a sun environment.
 
Dear qship, It does not matter where you live BC/CC is a superior product! FYI, even though I live in the great white north we see temperatures that range from -25 to 40+ degrees Celcius (thats -13F to 105F for my American friends) in The sunny Okanagan with all four seasons coming into effect. If there is anywhere that paint has to stand the test of time and environment it would be this type of climate. It has been proven for more years than it has been in North America that it is a more durable finish and has been used in Europe since the 70's. A little research on product here would help you make a better educated opinion.

As for your misconception about UV protection...SS urethanes have the pigment mixed right in the urethane exposing them to the sun's harmful rays. The very same urethane resin is used sans the pigment as the protective layer for BC/CC and SS/CC applications. CC is essentially sunblock for your car.

As for your statement about paint peeling and lawsuits, once again do a little research, the problems that stemmed from peeling paints were not all related to BC/CC paints, but related to colours that did not have enough pigment in them to protect the sealer/undercoat from oxidizing which in turn seen delamination of the topcoat from the sealer/e-coat in some cases.

I have seen poor application processes result in peeling issues with BC and SS paints, especially from backyard restorers that don't apply materials in a controlled environment using all the right tools/materials/procedures and that's a costly risk that they take...I am not saying that BC/CC is better that SS, it is a matter of preference and ultimately what you want for a finish. Super glossy vs. matte etc. Lower maintenance vs. higher maintenance with SS. To each his own.

I would rather people have the facts about materials used on our projects than non-factual statements that may result in money and time mis-spent...

-Cheers
 
im with 66 on this one even here in Wi we see 1990's and even early 2000's vehicles with pealing paint and it has nothing to do with them being bc cc in extreme sun conditions it was poor procedure from the factory not product inferiority
 
I found a good way to keep my flat black stripe looking clean. Another WD-40 miracle.

BEFORE

rrhoodstripe003.gif


AFTER

rrhoodstripe014.gif

rrhoodstripe011.gif
 
I thought I was the only guy in the world that doesn't care for base/clear.

Down here in FL, peeling or burnt cc is the norm. I'm surprised my 2000 didn't start earlier. It made it until last year, or about 10 years. It's not unusual to see 4-6 year old cars with burnt off cc around here.

Whether ot not you have a garage, i'm sure, is a contributing factor.

Another thing you can do with single stage is mix in about 3x the reccomended ammount of "wet look" hardener. I've seen that still look wet years after it's been applied.

As much as it costs for a paint job, even if you do it yourself, id rather not have to repaint in 5, 6, or even 10 years.

Two cents, please.


BTW-tt45, that RR looks great.
 
Hey everybody,
When painting the hood stripes on the the car I know I can find the dimensions of them but are you supposed to clear the flat black after you lay it down?

The original paint on the hood stripes for 1969 was a textured finish called "organisol" black. I have the Dupont color code somewhere. They were not flat or semi flat black... and for sure were not glossy black. In my opinion there is no better substute. It just looks good....!!!!!! Although you are correct about the maintenance of it. NEVER... should it be waxed. Back in the day I used glass cleaner after a good soap and water wash. Someone mentioned WD-40... also a good option.

I have seen the stripes done in glossy black and it really does not do justice. I think I would delete the stripe before doing that. Just another opinion....

Good luck with it.
 
Even though the "flat black sponge" is a tottal pain in the A## to take care of, I prefer it! I do not like the looks of high gloss cleared hood stripes... As a matter of fact, I dont like BC / CC finishes on any muscle car from this era! I have a much greater satisfaction of seeing a quality single stage paint on old hot rods "era correct". In my mind, I like these old Mopars for everything that made them what they were.... Including the finish.
Before my current job, I was a Paint process engineer. I programed paint robots to apply the finish to automotive parts "the factory". I can tell you for sure, we had lots of issues with poor clear coat causing Delamination "pealing" due to inadequite UV protection. We tested adhesion all the time, and things held up.. It was not preperation causing failure, it was UV. As stated in a previous post, clear is a sun screen of sorts,,, this is true. However, as many of you have seen driving down the road,,,, it doesn't always work.
I'm not bashing anyones knowledge of Base clear, just offering some first hand experiances from the manufacture! Even body shops had issues with things THEY were sure of regarding delam. For example, they were provided flexable primer to use on plastic bumper covers "facias" that I personaly have seen fail! We didn't use that stuff from the factory,,, we used "ad-pro" that looked more like a diluted milk and went on cloudy milky in color, and very light .1 mil.
None of the last sentence had a thing to do with clear,,, but I thought you might like to know.
My 2 cents
 
I forgot to mention that My 69 RR was single stage with the black stripes, and the first time I waxed the car I about freaked out! I think my forearms were sore for a week after rubbing that thing out trying to remove the wax!...LOL That never happened again!!!!
 
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