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Proportioning valve talk

Just need an inlet and an outlet if you're just going with a proportioning valve and not the distribution/prop valve combo. It mounts in the line to your rear brakes after the distribution block. If you're upgrading to a disc/drum combo, make sure your new master cylinder has a residual valve in it. Typically all the new ones do, but confirm that. If not, install a 10PSI residual somewhere in the the line back to the rear drums.



I have a brand new prop valve sitting in a box you can have..No cost...I'm not using it. Save yourself 45-50 bucks.
PM me your address and i'll get it on its way down the Oregon trail, if you want it.
 
the distribution/prop valve combo
Click to expand...

What is the purpose of the combo unit?

Thank you for the offer but my cost on the ssbc unit is only $32 so I'm kind of leaning in that direction
 
The combo obviously incorporates the distribution and Prop valve... If your car came with old manual drums and you're moving up to power disc/drum combo, your old distribution block does not have the proper channeling/flow rates to work with some upgraded conversion kits. Some of the new aftermarket kits out there claim they will, but I have read/heard plenty of horror stories with that. If you don't know if the kit will work with the old block and you are going to a disc's up front (reqiures a proportioning valve), going with a combo will kill two birds with one stone. Normally it will be cheaper to buy the combo vs. a new block then valve and you'll have one less cut in your rear brake line to worry about.. As mentioned in a different thread, I picked up a Wilwood Combo for $60 bucks. If I would have bought separate, over $120 bucks.

No sweat on the valve..lotta folks are pretty happy with the SSBC stuff
 
Ah well I have drums all around non powered.. I bought this master:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SSB-A28144/ to give me powered and SSBC said it would work great with one of their disc kits when I want to do the swap.
Right now I am just going with the 4 drums .. replaced all the hardware and they ready to go now...

So are you saying there is a distribution block I did not see then on the car ?
 
The Wilwood/SSBC one's I don't have to give away. The one I got came with my disc brake conversion kit, and I'm not using because i'm going with the Wilwood combo instead.
 
excellent thread.. I did a front disc brake swap on my dads 70RT using MP's brakes. They did not supply a new proportioning valve. But I noticed when you have your foot on the brakes you can hear a lot of chatter from the front calipers.. Can this be because I need to install that combo valve???
 
Did the kit you got from MP come with a replacement distribution block darkhoarse? Some MFG's supply a distribution block with a non-adjustable proportioning valve already intergrated inside.

As far as your issue, did you apply some anti-Chatter/squeek (pic below) to the back side of you pads when installed them? If not, usually it's the first thing to remidy any chatter down there. Easily found at most auto parts stores. As far as it being the proportioning valve, not likely. The proportioning valve is used to control the amount of pressure to the front/rear brakes (typically rear-some cases, both). Drum cars did not have them. Issue's with not having one or having a faulty prop valve= rear brakes locking or hard rear momentum shift in braking or hard front braking, excessive shift to the front during braking, over sensitive pedal.

If you did already apply this stuff to your brakes up front, I would call MP, ask if their master cylinder for that kit incorporates a 10 PSI residual valve for the rear drums and a 2 PSI residual valve for the front.

lct-40299_w.jpg
 
Thanks for the advice. No the MP kit did not come with any dist.Block..Should I start there? thanks for tip about the ant-chatter stick..cool
 
No sweat darkhorse......Try out the anti-chatter, guessing it will do the trick for you. Apply a liberal amount to the inside pad where it mates up to the caliper piston(s) as well as to the backside of the outer where it meets up with the caliper.

As far as not having a prop valve, I would call MP immediately and ask if it is integrated in the master cylinder? If they were supposed to supply you with one? And if not, if there is one they recommend for their brake kit? Being you went from full drum to disc, you most definitely should be running one.
 
I ended up with the ssbc a0730... I replaced all the brake lines as well.... it stops now if you can believe that...LOL new master as well... in fact the whole system was replaced..
 
Great thread as I am in the middle of all this. Few questions, some may be stupid. Is there a flow chart somewhere to show the set ups that should be followed? After looking at the rear lines I discovered another device which looks like another prop valve (not to be confused with Propwash) mounted on the back axle, to regulate the left/right pressure? It has a cap (metal) which seems quite loose and turns easily, as in no static pressure, do you have to push down on it to engage it? It moved when I wiped the sludge from it.
 
Thats the rear axle vent and the block that it goes thru is a "t" so the lines can go to each wheel cylinder.
 
Excellent thread. Trying to get fluid to rear drums right now and this helps. I am looking to put in all disks and replace master and lines soon. Currently all drums and non-power brakes. Is there a complete package anyone would recommend?
 
I just put front discs on with a kit from ssbc ordered from summit. Overall it was OK, but some pieces in the kit did not match up. I had to resolve an issue with the new pushrod that they include. Also, the new bolts they give you for the disc backing plate are fine thread and the nuts supplied were coarse thread. No biggie, I just used the old nuts.
 
I got the front disc conversion kit for my roadrunner from Right Stuff Detailing. I had one spindle that was .05" more wide than the other and the inner bearing would not slide over it. Got a replacement part in less than a week.. Overall pretty good kit, but all the parts are pretty much identical to the disc brakes in a early to mid 70's A bodies. No crazy performance upgrade
 
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