Suspects are the shift and park cable O-rings, the park lock housing to main housing gasket, the kickdown lever shaft seal (that's where my '62 leaks from once the torque converter drains down and brings the fluid level above that seal), the speedometer cable O-ring, and the shift and park cables themselves -- if they fall down out of their floorpan brackets and come to rest on the exhaust pipe, the outer casing burns off and you'll have a leak. No need to replace the costly cable -- fix it. Clean down the cable thoroughly with brake cleaner, cut a piece of fuel injection hose (marked SAE J30R9) 3 inches longer than the damaged portion of the jacket, slit the hose lengthwise (some "spiral" to the slit helps), coat the damaged area of the cable with Mopar RTV (don't substitute another brand unless you want to make a mess rather than a repair), place the slit hose over the area and twist/shift it a little to spread the RTV, then apply hose clamps at 1½" intervals, just enough to hold the hose firmly, but not so tightly as to squeeze the cable, which would cause it to bind.
Stubborn pan gasket leaks are easy to fix. Forget either type of floppy gasket (cork composite or rubber). Forget trying to seal a warped old pan. A nice new heavy-duty pan with unwarped rails can be had from the dealer under p/n 52118 779AB (for A904 -- if you have a 727, it's 5211 8780AD), and it even includes a doughnut magnet to catch metallic shavings. While you are at the Chrysler dealer, get the really nice double-seal, reusable rigid pan gasket p/n 4295 875AC for 904, or 2464 324AB for 727. Use new correct 5/16"-18 × 5/8" bolts with captive washer, p/n 4723 548. The pan will never leak again.
See
here for info on retrofitting an in-pan filter to the '62 and '63 cars with the external trans fluid filter (no longer available and a PITA to deal with).
ink banana:
