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Help me please!

69 6BBL

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Local time
4:53 PM
Joined
Sep 6, 2011
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Location
Pensyltucky
Ok, please read a post I put up on the new member board to understand my situation better. Here's our current problem...
We bought a brake conversion kit from the right stuff detailing. (manual brakes, front disc kit) We received:
spindles, rotors, pads, bearings, master cylinder, proportioning valve, calipers, hardware for mtg above parts. (no gasket for master cylinder, no instructions for prop. Valve, instructions said to "torque spindle nut to torque in included directions." no biggie, just kinda comical how it refered to itself for a non existent torque setting.)

Install everything, yes bled the mc (three times now) , and all lines ( also three times)

Pedal is pretty hard, does not return all the way. Infact when we let off it it jumps up, then slides very slowly about another 1/4-1/2 Inch maybe?

Road test seemed ok at first, we thought the driver side stuck on us once, but we are unsure. Got home (20 miles on new brakes) throw on lift, and the right side rotor isn't even scratched yet. Try spinning wheels while off the ground, left side works with minimal pressure, and right side needed alot more pressure on the pedal to get the wheel to stop. Anyone know why the brand new fronts aren't functioning at the same pressure?
 
I know its new but with the pedal return it actually sounds like a master cylinder gone bad, i had it happen but mine wasn't new.
 
First thought would be if you replaced the flexible brake lines (front and rear)? Over time the rubber will dry rot, sounds like you may have shrapnel in one of them acting like a residual pressure valve of sorts. On difference od required pressure from side to side, check and make sure the flex hoses are the same size (i.d.)- if not that will make a difference. New mc "should" be ok,but could still have debris in it causing restriction. Hope this helps, & Good Luck!
 
Yes, replaced flex lines on the front, forgot about those, they came new with the kit. Problem is only with the front, left to right, rears seem fine. The car just also doesn't seem to stop right. Nothing at all like my bros duster with basically the same setup.

I could buy the master cylinder being bad, just due to what I said about the pedal not returning all the way as soon as i let off it.

We are calling the right stuff to see what they think.
 
I had to install a return spring for my pedal...Mine was a conversion also...
Petty Blue 67 gTx
 
i put one of those right stuff kits on my 65 coronet. in my opinion they're junk. the master cylinder was too large, 1 1/8" piston, the calipers had too large of a piston, 2.75". replaced the calipers with a-body 2.47" pistons, went down to 1. 031 piston master cylinder and now it sorta stops. i feel it was a real money waster.
 
I installed Stainless Steel Brakes front disc kit and had the identical problem. After chasing prop valve and M/C fixes, I discovered I had the master cylinder plumbed incorrectly through the distribution block and changed it to the front bowl supplying the prop valve for the back brakes and the rear bowl supplying the distribution block for the front brakes. Upon road testing, I discovered further that I had plumbed one front line into the front portion of the distribution block and the other front line into the rear portion of the dist. block. Changed both to the front and FINALLY, I'm stopping correctly. Too much trial & error.
 
I'm curious, I put a kit in my 69 RR from summit. (ssbc) and was having an issue with the shouldered bolt/pushrod not fitting correctly. If I'm reading right, you have manual with discs up front? Did you have to change out your push rod set up?
My system came with an eyelet for the push rod at 5/8 and the shouldered bolt was 9/16. I had to make a "bushing" to take up the slack.
 
Sorry guys, appreciate the inputs but last night was one of them nights where everything I touched broke on me. My daily driver wrangler, we may have fried the CPU, gave up and looked at the car where we left it and both the rear wheel cylinders were making puddles on the garage floor, then to top it off summit sent us two right side lower ball joints instead of one left n one right. Yea wasn't a happy camper last night.

I checked over the lines into the block, they seem like they are wired right. Only one line going to the back of the car, other two going to fronts. Defiantly don't have it hooked up to the mc backwards, if I did then I woulda noticed draining of the front tank from bleeding the front brakes.

And no I didn't have any problem mtg the pushrod.

I guess I never really had a feel for how the brakes were before I did the swap to see if it was screwed up before the conversion as well. Oh well, busy weekend for me!
 
Update: so the last couple days I've been tearing lots of stuff out of the car and the jeep. Notice a big ol puddle under the rear wheels, so tonight I replaced the rear wheel cylinders. Bleed it, and suddenly the pedal is the right hardness, slightly spongy when before it was hard as a rock. Thinking that maybe the wc's were locked up on us, making it so it wouldn't push fluid thru the whole system, including the fronts. Slight pressure on the pedal on the lift and now we couldn't spin either of the wheels. Hope our problem is gone. Tom. The new gas tank goes in, so I can get it in for an alignment on weds, then on the road she goes.
 
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