• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Does a half pan have to be welded

Randy73

Well-Known Member
Local time
11:17 AM
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
416
Reaction score
4
Location
Florida
73 charger and was wondering, do I have to weld the half pan and rear pan back in or could I use an industrial epoxy ?

reason I ask, is that I cannot find a welder to weld the pans back in, that is reasonable and I trust.
 
I would not trust any sort of glue especially on an area that was welded, surely there are people out there that can do this!
 
I need some practice welding with my new (to me) Hobart 140.

...oh, TRUST...

You trust me, don't you? (wink)

I'm getting better...
 
Yes, it needs welded, 3M makes a panel bonding epoxy I have used it but I would not use it on any area such as a trunk pan to frame rail. If you don't want to tackle it yourself take it to a local body shop.
 
Invest in a gasless flux core mig welder, practice a little and have at it. Spot welding panels back in really isnt that hard. And if it looks awful, just grind the welds down
 
Not to be rude, but gas shielded welding (MIG) is soooooo much easier and cleaner than flux core, it's not even funny. Pay the extra hundred bucks (plus the gas and bottle cost), and go with true MIG.

PM me your location and I'll show you the difference (on your car if you like).

Maybe we can work out a trade for consumables, beer, lunch, gas, 3rd gen B parts, etc.

I need a front bumper.
 
Car is in Birmingham, so gas is out!!! :icon_mrgreen:
 
The only thing I would use if you cant weld it is Plio Grip made by Ashland chemical it is a structural adhesive. We use this on Kenworth T2 and T700 semi trucks. The cab/box structure and roof is totally glued together with this stuff with no bolts or welds just glue. We have used this in production and has been proven since 1997 and we are using it today.
 
That's why I phrased it the way I did.
I used the flux core that came with my welder twice.
Then I tried solid wire and gas, and I don't think I'll ever use the flux core again, unless I'm forced to.
The gas shielded finished weld is much cleaner, and you can see the puddle much better while you're doing it.

I got mine used for $275 with a small empty bottle and an unused regulator.
It cost me $70 to fill the bottle.

I think it was a great investment and it's already started to pay for it's self.
I've fixed two lawn mowers, I'm doing my exhaust, and I have quarters and floor patches, and a bulge hood to skin, once I get my chops up with projects that can't easily be seen.

Shop around for a quality used one, but act fast once you find one.
They usually don't last long. At least the good deals don't.
 
Flux-core is GREAT....FOR FARM EQUIPMENT!!!! Save your money and search Craiglist early on the weekends! I bought a Hobart Handler 175 with a cart, dimming mask, gloves, tank, and gauge, for $350! Like new. The guy just retired, and was selling everything to spend the rest of his life in a 40 foot motorhome! The deals ARE out there.
 
Haha, the controversy over GMAW/FCAW... I am a firm believer that MIG (actually MAG) is the best choice, but... Ma Mopar herself prefers FCAW over GMAW in the collision repair manuals it produces!
Technically, FCAW produces better penetration and a smaller heat effect zone. My experience is you need a lot of practice to FCAW effectively, oh yeah, and don't forget to reverse the polarity on your MIG to weld with any success with Flux core... Ground should be Pos(+) and the gun should be Neg(-).
And BTW, you cannot use bonding adhesives for structure in any vehicle, only in certain areas on certain cosmetic panels (roof skins/quarter panels etc.) The adhesive has greater strength in a lap shear application than welding, but has poor peel strength when compared to welding...
 
Haha, the controversy over GMAW/FCAW... I am a firm believer that MIG (actually MAG) is the best choice, but... Ma Mopar herself prefers FCAW over GMAW in the collision repair manuals it produces!
Technically, FCAW produces better penetration and a smaller heat effect zone. My experience is you need a lot of practice to FCAW effectively, oh yeah, and don't forget to reverse the polarity on your MIG to weld with any success with Flux core... Ground should be Pos(+) and the gun should be Neg(-).
And BTW, you cannot use bonding adhesives for structure in any vehicle, only in certain areas on certain cosmetic panels (roof skins/quarter panels etc.) The adhesive has greater strength in a lap shear application than welding, but has poor peel strength when compared to welding...

In what area does ma mopar perfer FCAW.All exterior panels bonded and spot welded.Almost all unitised frame section still uses er70s-6.I know the hydroformed truck frames require a spec wire,but is still a solid wire.I have not seen a spec or tsb for this.
 
73 charger and was wondering, do I have to weld the half pan and rear pan back in or could I use an industrial epoxy ?

reason I ask, is that I cannot find a welder to weld the pans back in, that is reasonable and I trust.

Sorry, late comer to this. Today, most shops will use a glue (For lack of better words) to keep replacement parts where they need to be.


HOWEVER, learn to weld! Go to Sears or where ever and pick up a MIG and have fun. practice with other bits of sheet metal and have at it!
 
In what area does ma mopar perfer FCAW.All exterior panels bonded and spot welded.Almost all unitised frame section still uses er70s-6.I know the hydroformed truck frames require a spec wire,but is still a solid wire.I have not seen a spec or tsb for this.

Here is the recommendation that can be found in nearly all of Chrysler's Collision repair manuals. Keep in mind that this is for structural repairs, and I still believe in the MIG before FCAW. Another twist to this discussion is MIG Brazing that will likely replace MIG steel for non-structural panels. Many manufacturers are already making statements in this regard...

My point is that FCAW is not junk! Just not as pretty and easy to master. The Viper's structure is welded together using FCAW...

And note the ER70S-3 electrode instead of the -6 for MIG...
 

Attachments

  • Dodge Caliber Body Repair Manual_Page_331.jpg
    Dodge Caliber Body Repair Manual_Page_331.jpg
    156.2 KB · Views: 231
I work at the factory, and we use a TON of glue on the newer cars! Especially the convertibles. We have done "peel" tests and have found the welds failed before the adhesives! Thing is, alot of ours are inert until they go through the paint shop ovens, then they activate from the heat. The key to aftermarket adhesives is prep and proper clamping. I do trust these new materials.
 
No one ever said FCAW didn't stick, we just said it was sloppy looking and messy for the residue it leaves around the area.
 
In the collision repair industry we use adhesives in certain areas, and are widely accepted. They are not recommended for use on a vertical seam but are great on longitudinal seams and horizontal seams, such as the bottom of the 1/4 panel etc. I firmly believe in the use of adhesives and have been using them since their inception in the 80's.The beauty of them is no heat effect zone, great contribution to corrosion protection and their strength. I have to teach my students the proper use of these amazing materials.

I know how much adhesive is used in new cars, my wife's 08 R/T was just nailed in the back end and repaired, but the factory also uses STRSW in conjunction with the adhesives correct? Which plant do you work in Scott? What part? I have been through many of Toyota's plants, here and in Japan, very cool seeing the whole manufacturing process...
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top