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Front steering + suspension

Mesopic

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Hi
Trying to rebuild my 69 road runner but am unfamiliar with it. I have the charger, road runner and super bee restoration guide. However it does not contain what i require it only has the suspension (page 13). I require a explored picture of the front steering , so i know what rubbers i have to buy, i am also unfamiliar with American terminology so a labeled picture would make life easier.
Can anyone help me? Thank you
 
Look on Ebay or Amazon for a factory service manual, it'll make your life a lot easier. Also there are companies that make total rebuild kits for all the front end rubber you require; one such company is www.p-s-t.com or you could use thier parts list to piece together your own kit using Moog parts. If you need any help I'll gladly fly out there if you cover my air fare :)
 
You pay for the air fare, and I'll rebuild your front suspension, wash and wax, detail all of your cars and we can drink some adult beverages and tell stories....even if they aren't true, lol!!
 
You pay for the air fare, and I'll rebuild your front suspension, wash and wax, detail all of your cars and we can drink some adult beverages and tell stories....even if they aren't true, lol!!
Feel like making a trip to the country of Texas? :D
 
69 suspension

Hi
Trying to rebuild my 69 road runner but am unfamiliar with it. I have the charger, road runner and super bee restoration guide. However it does not contain what i require it only has the suspension (page 13). I require a explored picture of the front steering , so i know what rubbers i have to buy, i am also unfamiliar with American terminology so a labeled picture would make life easier.
Can anyone help me? Thank you

Mesopic



I don't know if this may help to get the parts you need.
This is from the 69 parts book.

Jeff
 

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Hell ya, I'll go to Texas.
 
5.7 Hemi...howz about Canada...the beer is like moonshine anyways...I'm looking to re-work my 70 RR but not sure where to start...rear sway bar?Shocks?Leaf springs?...man I've got my work cut out for me...
 
What a great site this is! All the info you require has been given and you get some laughs no extra charge! I was going to copy the same page out of my `68 parts book.
 
The Mopar T-bar front end is probably the easiest independent front suspension to rebuild. Next to your MacPherson strut anyway.
 
I roll to great white north. Just remember, the hardest part of any job is just getting started.
 
Finally done my most of my front end. Just brakes and sway bar to go, Seems my torsion bar rubbers and clips (my new ones) were thrown out in one of my fathers lets clean the shed days (i was not home when this happened)
I am will be buying new ones but i don't know what the difference is between the two type of rubber seals, Do i need both (is one front and the other back?) or are they just different types for the same spot?
http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.7106/.f?sc=12
http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.7073/.f?sc=12
Thank you for your help
Picture will follow once the torsion bars are installed
 
The cheaper one's are rubber and the other are Poly.

I suggest the rubber ones. Soak them in hot water for a few minutes before you try and put them on.

I typically run hot water in the house and let them sit in a cup filled for a minute. Once the water cool off some I dump the cup of water and fill it back up with hot water again then run outside to put them on. The torsion bar is already in the car hanging by the rear cross member. I dump the water, lay down and start putting the rubbers on. Once they are over the hex you are ok, but work fast to get them over the hex's. If you let them cool it will be hard to get them on and you may end up tearing them.
 
First off, it would help if we know what your intentions are with the car. Street car? Race car? Road race? Dual purpose?

Lets assume for simplicity's sake it's a dual purpose car. One you plan on driving on the street mostly and the track ocassionally. The best thing to do here is a mix of rubber and urethane. The lower control arm on Mopars supports probably over 95% of the vehicle weight in the front.

So, that means road vibrations are transferred through the lower arms pretty good. Using regular rubber bushings in the lower control arm pivots will keep road vibration the same as stock.

I like to use urethane bushings in the upper control arms. This will aid in keeping the tires on the ground cornering on the street. Also, if you have a front sway bar, use urethane there as well. This will result in less flex and body roll.

Moving to the rear, most people make the mistake of using urethane in the leaf spring bushings. Wrong answer. Rubber bushings there actually help traction on the track by allowing a little more movement as the car leaves the line. This allows for just a little more bite on the track compared to urethane bushings. Using urethane on the leaf springs, the leaf spring will bow under launch and that's all. Using rubber, the leaf spring bows, reaches its limit and then transfers some more flex into the rubber bushings. Normally, you'd think this was a bad thing, but in a drag race situation, it's just the opposite.

Now, if you're doing some serious curve carving, you'll generally want to go with full urethane bushings everywhere, but take note. If you go to the strip, you will likely not have the traction that rubber bushings will allow and also you'll have more transference of road noise and vibration with all urethane. Like anything else, it's all a compromies. Just food for thought.
 
You pay for the air fare, and I'll rebuild your front suspension, wash and wax, detail all of your cars and we can drink some adult beverages and tell stories....even if they aren't true, lol!!


You still offering to help fellow members out?
 
Hell yeah!!
 
Just south of Fresno.
 
That's about 3 hours from me. Still doable.
 
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