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Steering wheel adjustment??

dont hate me because im beautiful!!!!! WOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.......GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD GOOD GOOD....them dukes....THEM DUKESSS !!!
 
did that craigslist 72 satty w/ the 440, 6pk in pitt sell?
 
Do as you wish...

Sounds like the discussion was all for not since you need front end/ steering components replaced. An alignment will be in order once the new parts are installed.

As was stated in an earlier post, the shaft and original wheel have an indexing groove. I know, because my wheel is off right now. As for the aftermarket wheel?...Don't know, it's been years since I messed with one.

The reason we are explaining the correct way to center the wheel is that 'something' caused it to leave center...that usually being worn components (what you found) or the front end being out of alignment (a past fender bender, hitting a pot hole, a curb, parking block,...even a low tire). Simply pulling the wheel off the shaft and re-indexing it does not fix the 'real problem'. And by re-indexing the wheel on the shaft, you would also have more total rotation (albeit a few inches) in one direction than the other. Wheel re-indexing...Easy fix, or masking another problem? It's not my car. (shoulder shrug)

Cheers,
 
The original poster stated that an aftermarket steering wheel was installed off centered with the question being does he need to use a puller to pull the wheel to recenter it.... I don't understand where all of this other discussion on suspension comes into the picture??? Am I missing something?

The short answer to the question is yes, you need a simple puller. Remove the shaft nut, pull the wheel off, center it up and put it back on, tighten nut and go for a cruise..........
 
Sounds like the discussion was all for not since you need front end/ steering components replaced. An alignment will be in order once the new parts are installed.

As was stated in an earlier post, the shaft and original wheel have an indexing groove. I know, because my wheel is off right now. As for the aftermarket wheel?...Don't know, it's been years since I messed with one.

The reason we are explaining the correct way to center the wheel is that 'something' caused it to leave center...that usually being worn components (what you found) or the front end being out of alignment (a past fender bender, hitting a pot hole, a curb, parking block,...even a low tire). Simply pulling the wheel off the shaft and re-indexing it does not fix the 'real problem'. And by re-indexing the wheel on the shaft, you would also have more total rotation (albeit a few inches) in one direction than the other. Wheel re-indexing...Easy fix, or masking another problem? It's not my car. (shoulder shrug)

Cheers,
i got you...it is an aftermarket wheel (should've stated that earlier)..forgive my ignorance..it just amazes me that a wheel would be put on 45 degree off..hopefully after the ball joints/steering shaft coupler is taken care of...the steering wheel will be cured.
Does anyone know how long it will take to R&R lower ball joints...thinking of replacing the upper ball joints while there as well.
 
i got you...it is an aftermarket wheel (should've stated that earlier)..forgive my ignorance..it just amazes me that a wheel would be put on 45 degree off..hopefully after the ball joints/steering shaft coupler is taken care of...the steering wheel will be cured.
Does anyone know how long it will take to R&R lower ball joints...thinking of replacing the upper ball joints while there as well.

No harm. ALL of us are trying to help.

Lowers should be a 1-2 hr job. The uppers can vary depending on how easy the old ones come out (they are threaded in). If you are lucky, 10-20 minutes per side to replace them. I had to heat the end of the control arm to get them to release on my `66 Belvedere...spent a good hr getting them out. At $30-$40 in parts, this is a smart decision to do them while the front end is already apart.

As for the wheel...if you do decide to pull it, the keyway on the shaft should be at 12:00. If it is already there (aligned with the top of the wheel) when you get it off, then it is your alignment that is out. Good luck with your repairs!
 
yeah..i forgot what it's like to run old school...my last car like this was my 66 Mustang Fastback..but that was about 8 yrs ago..still getting used to driving w/carburetors again..although i love the smell..mmm!
My biggest adjustment is I have never had a car with a stall/torque convertor. It feels like the trans is slipping from a dead stop..it has a 3500 stall. I guess I will just have to get used to it..
 
...and a ball joint socket may be a good investment.

Took 45 min to get one side off my 66 with a big pipe wrench and an air chisel, including nicking and gouging the UCA.
Took 5 min to get the other off with the BJ socket and 10 min each side to put both back on.

Agree with master spline and total travel in both directions.

Why not do it right?

The trick I explained accounts for both, but maybe not a wheel that was forced on against the master spline.

My aftermarked grant kit has the spline.
 
did that craigslist 72 satty w/ the 440, 6pk in pitt sell?


i was not aware of the satty on the craigs list. after i bought my purple beauty, i stopped looking on the craigs list for cars !:happy11:
 
There is a master spline on the end of the shaft where it enters the coupler...THIS HAS TO BE LINED UP RIGHT, or it will throw off the whole system. The steering box and geometry is designed for this spline to line up with the 'top' or 'high spot' on the steering box.

Lemme go see if Mopar Action put the article on-line yet and I'll paste it here. BAH it's not on-line but I have the issues right here. They did a great 3-part story all on the finer points of Mopar steering, Dec '08 to Apr, 09.

To do this right, you need to pull the steering wheel, make sure the master spline is at the 12 o'clock position, then, go down to where the shaft goes into the coupler, the master spline should also be at the 12 O'clock position (easy way to check is to check to see where the 'notch' is on the face of the coupler, the side facing the firewall). With these two things, confirmed in the 12 0'clock position, THEN you can asses the front suspension.

To paraphrase the meaning of the high spot, is that it's the dead-center of the steering travel (left-to-right) and also should be the 'tightest' spot of steering wheel travel...which is what you want while going straight down the road. If your wheel is 'off' like the OP'ers, you'll have a lot of slop while the wheel is 'straight' and you'll feel it tighten momentarily as you turn it either to the left or to the right (depending on which way the wheel is 'off')

If I can get to my office tomorrow, and I get permission from Rick E., I'll scan and post the articles.
 
what have i started...geez!!!
There is the right way to do things, or the half asses way to do things. You did the right thing having the suspension checked for play. Front ends are aligned with settings as small as a 32nd of an inch. You can't do that at home by counting the turns on the tie rod sleeve. As far as taking an aftermarket wheel off and repositioning it, I Don't remember ever seeing one you can do that with because it messes up the steering geometry of the front end. As the other poster said. The reason a steering wheel gets off center to begin with is you have another problem causing it to be off center. Loose suspension parts, knocked out of alignment by hitting a pot hole, curb, fender bender, etc. Make sure the steering is tight. Double check for looseness after replacing the parts that are really loose as some parts with slight looseness may not be noticeable until you have replaced the severely loose ones. Then have it aligned. An alignment tech having look up the adjustment points for caster and camber in a book before making adjustments is common. I wonder how often one of todays techs does front end work on a 71 RR. That doesn't make him a bad tech. All brands of cars have different ways of adjusting them. I did front end work on every brand of car out there for over 20 years from the mid 70s through the 90s and did thousands of 2 wheel (front only) and 4 wheel alignments. I would stick with your friend at the alignment shops advice and disregard what these backyard bozos on here are telling you to do. Not having it done correctly can not only wear out a set of tires very quickly, but can also endanger your life. It wouldn't be too great having that nice car you just bought lying on its top in the ditch because a very loose ball joint, or tie rod end broke because some bozo told you. Aw hell, just pop the wheel off and stick back on how ever it looks the best. But it's your car you do it how ever you want. And by the way, Moog parts are very good parts. They been around for decades. I have installed hundreds of their parts and never had one fail.
 
I remember reading that the wheel was an aftermarket piece but it didn't register in my pea brain. I have an old aftermarket wheel adapter sitting here and there's no master in it so that should mean the column shaft should have a master 'blank' and the original wheel hub should have the master spline.....? Or either my adapter is for brand x or something. The only other car I've ever replace a wheel on was a 66 Mord Fustang Bast Fack and damned if I remember how that was. That happened in the mid 70's and I've slept a few times since then.
 
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