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Roadrunner headers.

440ricertamerRR

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Hey guy I'm wondering how many of you guy's have headers on you 1970 Roadrunner's. GTX's, or Satellites. And if you guy's installed them how hard was it because I'm wanting to do header cut outs but a friend of mine told me it is pretty hard to put them in. Or is there a type of headers that's makes the install easier?
 
It wasn't too hard on my 70 with a 440 and manual steering. I had to loosen the motor mounts, put a board under the oil pan, and life the engine a but but they wiggled in OK. One trick is to put the back of the car up on jacks so that it is nose down - that will help you get the collector down and in without hitting the floor. Good luck!
 
It wasn't too hard on my 70 with a 440 and manual steering. I had to loosen the motor mounts, put a board under the oil pan, and life the engine a but but they wiggled in OK. One trick is to put the back of the car up on jacks so that it is nose down - that will help you get the collector down and in without hitting the floor. Good luck!

Thank's for the advice! I have power stearing on my car. Do you think that's going to get in the way? Haha I probably sound pretyy dumb but I'm only 16 and still learning A LOT of stuff. I appreciate your advice!
 
Thank's for the advice! I have power stearing on my car. Do you think that's going to get in the way? Haha I probably sound pretyy dumb but I'm only 16 and still learning A LOT of stuff. I appreciate your advice!
ya it will get in the way.take off the ps hoses to get them out of the way.jacking the rear up works great for clearance.i had to remove the motor mounts on my 68 charger with ps to get mine in.i used an eng hoist rather then the jack under the pan deal.do the pass side first,dr side is easyer.
 
Make sure that your headers are made for a power steering car. If not you will be putting dents in them to get them on.
 
A trick is to put the headers in a heavy plastic bag. This helps to keep from scratching them and the car up. Also, some headers go in much easier from the bottom depending on header brand.
 
I put TTI's on my 69. They did not go on easy. Had to dimple a tube. Have a friend who had no problem with them at all. Seems hit and miss with any brand these days.
 
I put TTI's on my 69. They did not go on easy. Had to dimple a tube. Have a friend who had no problem with them at all. Seems hit and miss with any brand these days.
Were both sets the same tube size? Also, even tho it may be the same car, there is a production tolerance. I had two 70 Challengers once and bought a one piece tail trim for my nice one and it didn't fit but it fit my ugly one that needed a restoration perfectly. They were exactly a 1/4" difference between the two with the trim being long for the car and that car had never been wrecked. Matter of fact, the car looked new and was still wearing the original paint and this was in around the mid 80's and the trim was an NOS piece. I've also swapped out K frames between two like cars and it wouldn't fit the other.....
 
I have 2" Hookers and they cleared the manual steering box fine but when I tried to put a power box in they didn't work. tti headers fit the best but are expensive. Cheapest alternative is get a set of anybody's headers and dent the pipes to fit.
 
Were both sets the same tube size? Also, even tho it may be the same car, there is a production tolerance. I had two 70 Challengers once and bought a one piece tail trim for my nice one and it didn't fit but it fit my ugly one that needed a restoration perfectly. They were exactly a 1/4" difference between the two with the trim being long for the car and that car had never been wrecked. Matter of fact, the car looked new and was still wearing the original paint and this was in around the mid 80's and the trim was an NOS piece. I've also swapped out K frames between two like cars and it wouldn't fit the other.....
Yes they were same size. I would say it is production tolerance. Probably a little with the car and a little with the header. The collector on the driver side actually points up slightly towards the floorboard, the pass. side front tube hits the idler arm and pass. side hits shock tower/inner fender. The last 2 I could maybe say car but the collector was not welded in position correctly. I should of sent them back but it was such a fight getting them in, plus we had a show to be at, I just delt with it.
 
Yes they were same size. I would say it is production tolerance. Probably a little with the car and a little with the header. The collector on the driver side actually points up slightly towards the floorboard, the pass. side front tube hits the idler arm and pass. side hits shock tower/inner fender. The last 2 I could maybe say car but the collector was not welded in position correctly. I should of sent them back but it was such a fight getting them in, plus we had a show to be at, I just delt with it.
That sucks when that happens. The tubes were probably built on Super Bowl Friday or the Monday after :D I usually two bolt the flanges together to take a look at the collector angles to get an idea if they are built at least half ***. It's been years since installing a set but I've done my fair share over the years. It's also a good idea to straight edge the gasket surfaces to see how they fair. I have a new set of TTI's hanging on the wall and they look pretty nice over all. Can't wait to fight them in lol
 
Headers

Here is some photos of Shumacher Tri-Y's they are great fitting but about $700 for Chrome... Also Hedman makes a good above frame "Semi shorty header" w/1-3/4" tube & 2-1/2" collectors shorty painted header $180+ semi cheap, also in ceramic coated "Elite" for like $400, that fits pretty damn well, "if your not racing they", they will flow much better than the stock manifolds with no reversion pulsing, "but' they are not as good as the long tube headers for overall HP/TQ #'s.... TTI's are also good fitting high quality "usually" for $600-$1200 good well fitting headers for a Mopar aren't cheap
 

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  • Shumacher B-RB Tri-Y Headers 1.jpg
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  • Schumacher B-RB Tri-Y Headers Lf dr.side.jpg
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That sucks when that happens. The tubes were probably built on Super Bowl Friday or the Monday after :D I usually two bolt the flanges together to take a look at the collector angles to get an idea if they are built at least half ***. It's been years since installing a set but I've done my fair share over the years. It's also a good idea to straight edge the gasket surfaces to see how they fair. I have a new set of TTI's hanging on the wall and they look pretty nice over all. Can't wait to fight them in lol
You are correct sir. I really should have looked them over better. Actually the collector thing was easy to spot. We got excited to get them on and cruise Route 66 with our new sweet sounding exhaust. The worst part of the deal was not even the header. Removing the exhaust manifolds and two bolts broke off rusted in the head. They are the two hardest ones to get to of coarse. Took me 4 hours, three easyouts, several drill bits, two angle drills and 2 taps. Was one broken drill bit away from taking head off.:eusa_wall:
 
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