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starting trouble

rychrger72

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so trying to get the charger started. moving soon (in a week), so i need to be able to get it up on a trailer. anywho.....replaced the starter, after doing that got nothing when turning the key to start, then a click when released.

searched the forum, after looking at the returns thought it might be the starter relay, swapped that out and when i turned the key to start there was a buzz while the key was turned to start. checked to make sure all the wires i messed with were secured, tried again and this time nothing.

the car has been sitting for a little over a year since it last ran before i deployed. at that time it would fire right up.

i have always had to turn the key on, put it in neutral, then start the car. however that has never been any more than an annoyance. any help is appreciated. i'm not very smart on electrical stuff.

-ryan
 
sounds like a bad connection at the battery...if they are good then try a new battery..
 
Ryan, When these cars sit for a period of time corrosion usually sets in, If your battery terminals are good and clean and has a full charge in it, I would check all your connections, maybe clean them up which includes your neutral safety switch..Try jumping the starter relay, if it doesn't turn over there try the solenoid, if not there it does have to be your battery, or terminals dirty. Then id check all the other connections to make sure there getting good contact.. Good luck.
 
Ryan, try to jump the starter solenoid first. If the car turns over then move to the neutral safety switch. I would turn the key to start ( crank) and shift through the gears. It sounds like the shifter might be out of adjustment (since it would start in neutral). Now all this should be done after all the connections are clean. If it only starts in neutral you might have a broken wire on the neutral safety switch. Everyone's advise is right on. Now if there is a buzz while attempting to start with the key, that is a loose connection or low/weak battery (high amp draw). Let us all know how it goes. The is more that can be done but start there.
 
thanks for help, i'll check the battery. i had it on a trickle charger while i was gone, but doesn't necessarily negate it. and i'm unsure how you go about jumping the relay, which points am i trying to connect?
 

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I bet battery. 90% of the time just not enough umph to kick the starter over
 
Its possible with battery, happens a lot and if it set for a length of time, trickle may not do it.. Meep is right with jumping the relay, just a screw driver to them should turn it over, try your solenoid to, if nothing happens its likely battery or bad starter, i know you replaced it but it happened to me last summer, lot of playing over a bad starter, it happens though, good luck.
 
charged the battery up all day, and gave it another shot. it spun the starter this time, but it sounded like the starter was free-spinning. as if the starter solenoid wasn't kicking it into the flywheel.

didnt get a chance to try jumping the relay, gonna give it a try in the morning. i've never heard a starter just spin like that. i have the battery on the trickle now to keep it topped off.
 
If its spinning free with a good charged battery it should really be whining out fast? It doesn't sound like its trying to engage? as in hearing it grinding sort off trying to mate with flywheel? If you have a multi meter to check things, check how many volts you have in the battery and post them, maybe that will help know what shape your battery's in.. I charged my battery while i worked on my car today as ive been using it a lot without starting the car and i just went out and checked mine, set on 200 DCV it reads 12.9 that is without charger or anything connected to it.. Gives you something to go by if you have the meter.. You can get one at a parts store for around 10 bucks, if needed.. handy tool to have.
 
Try jumping the starter with a wrench, turn your ignition to run and touch the terminals on the starter with a wrench. Should crank right up. If not your starter is pooched or its not engaging into the teeth of the torque converter.
 
the battery was shot, so i got a new one, and still having the same issue. i tried both jumping the relay and the terminals on the starter itself. the starter is just spinning sounds awful. going to pull the starter off and take a look. is there a way to make sure the starter aligns w/ the flywheel?
 
Sounds to me like the starter may need to be shimmed. The only way I know for sure is to take careful measurements from starter mounting base to bottom of flywheel tooth, and then from the mounting base of the starter to the top of the drive gear tooth. Then calucluate which way it may need to shift and see if you can shim it that way.
 
went and had them give me a diff starter, got it to turn over now. and of course doesnt want to feed fuel now. it never ends, have a feeling i'll have to make another run to the parts store to get a fuel pump. it'll fire after dumping a little gas in the carb, but won't stay running.

what can you do, i guess thats the game we we play. thanks for all the help guys. i really appreciate it.

-ryan
 
Put gas in in the tank :) I see im not the only one who buys a new starter to end up taking it out to get yet another new starter... I hope they didn't tell you the same thing they did me, When i took it back the kid at Auto Zoned out said he checked it, there was nothing wrong with it! As you said, thats the game we play, glad you got that part fixed.. Did your car run long enough to get the gas up to the carb? i have to ask because you did say its set for a long time.. diaphragm in the fuel pump probably dried out and cracked if thats the problem, id take the line of the carb and see if it is pumping, just in case a filter is plugged... its happened before. Good luck, your due some..
 
well after a long day, got her running, took a new fuel pump and no reason not to replace the filter as well. also changed the oil on the ram that's going to be towing the car, rear diff oil, and plugs. i am friggin sore.
 
Amp Gauge

it's your amp gauge i'm pretty sure i had the same problem 1972 Charger you need to by pass it or replace it every thing runs thru the amp gauge shunts.

The greatest problem with an ammeter in the instrument cluster is that all of the car's current passes through it from the alternator. The connectors corrode with age, building up resistance. Resistance means heat. Heat means melted ammeter gage...or worse.

the starter and or battery acts like it is the problem based on the clicking spinning sounds or even grinding

google for bypass instructions it's not a big job

ps:when i replaced the starter it worked for a week
hopefully the starter was the problem :)
 
took her for a spin today, it was too sunny not to. some person, i can't think of who, left a couple black marks on the pavement around the neighborhood. took a pic (before i washed it unfortunately)

:blob1:
 

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Still looks good washed or not! and the best is, Its running.. i heard of someone out there who was laying black marks around, I don't know about them guys who do that. lol, Glad everything's back to normal! Have fun!! :)
NutzoMullet.gif
 
Well about 2k mi. and we made the trip. I must say i was a little worried about the weight i was pulling through all the mountains heading to Cali, but the Hemi in the truck was great, i could tell when she was feeling the elevation but was still truckin along. averaged around 11-12 mpg, which with the mileage on the truck was better than i expected. i did give it fresh plugs, oil+filter, and royal purple in the rear diff prior. when i got the loaded weight ( including the truck itself, i was at around 11,500 lbs.)

Again i appreciate all the advice prior to the trip.

-ryan
 

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