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A/C Compressor. REALLY???

Grabinov911

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Guys,

I have searched high and low for an idler pulley and bracket that will allow me to remove the A/C Compressor on my 1970 383 (Roadrunner) without changing every belt and pulley on the whole motor.

On an A/C car the alternator shares a belt (two actually) with the A/C compressor. If you remove the A/C compressor, you cannot fit the belt that runs your alternator - not good. the obvious solution is a simple idler pulley to replace the A/C compressor, but it seems no such thing exists absent a complete "front end" from March performance for about $1,500.

WHY you ask? I have a lot of work to do on my car. The A/C doesn't work now and probably won't for some time - it's a low priority. I'd like to have that giant compressor and all those hoses and radiators out of the way until I am ready to work on them. But I can't remove that 45 pound compressor without changing around the whole front of the engine - only to have to change it back to put the A/C back on! SOMEONE HAS GOT TO HAVE A SOLUTION...

Help!
 
I'm not sure about a 383 but on my 360 I ran asingle belt in the forwardmost pulley grooves directly from the crank to the alternator and it had about 1/4 inch of clearance under the water pump.
 
To use an analogy: "I think you can't see the forest because the trees are in the way."

Why not just install a belt for your year of car/ engine that is non A/C? A standard V-belt runs what, $10 - $15? I understand you are trying to use what you have (the current belts), but I think trying to find an idler pulley to take up the slack left from removing the A/C compressor will run you much more $$$ than just getting a non A/C belt. When you are ready to re-install the A/C, just toss the shorter belt in the trunk as an emergency spare (if it would clear the A/C pulley when installed).
 
I deleted my a/c with a single water pump pully and a dual crank pulley. But I agree with what said you'll need to get new belts.
 
To use an analogy: "I think you can't see the forest because the trees are in the way."

Why not just install a belt for your year of car/ engine that is non A/C? A standard V-belt runs what, $10 - $15? I understand you are trying to use what you have (the current belts), but I think trying to find an idler pulley to take up the slack left from removing the A/C compressor will run you much more $$$ than just getting a non A/C belt. When you are ready to re-install the A/C, just toss the shorter belt in the trunk as an emergency spare (if it would clear the A/C pulley when installed).


Sorry guys i may not have correctly described the problem. The A/C engine pulley and belt setup appears to be complely different than that for a non-A/C engine. If I run a belt straight from the crank to the alternator, the belt rubs on the tensioner which tensions the crank/waterpump belt.

I'd love to just skip the A/C compressor, but the existing pulleys won't allow it... I'm trying to upload a photo.
 
I just went out and looked at my 383 w/AC and I see your dilema. Satellite65 is correct about the pulley. You will need the deeper water pump pulley so that it drives the water pump/fan and alternator together.
 
Ah, yet another soul cast into acessory pulley HELL.

I think I've seen motor home big blocks with aftermarket a/c, that have an idler pulley where the factory compressor mounts.
Might be able to adapt one of those.
 
sadly i think your only choices are to run the ac comp as an idler or do like satelite65 said and replace a few pulleys.the steel ones at 440source are not expensive,but seems like alot of extra work if you are just going to run ac later.why not take off everything but the comp?just leave it there,not hooked up.
 
sadly i think your only choices are to run the ac comp as an idler or do like satelite65 said and replace a few pulleys.the steel ones at 440source are not expensive,but seems like alot of extra work if you are just going to run ac later.why not take off everything but the comp?just leave it there,not hooked up.

Hey Sattelite65 and 67Coronet you guys are locked on! I think I'm just gonna leave the old compressor on there, but i see all these pix of guys with cool lookin' engine bays - all nice and organized and simple - and i was just trying to clean up.

I think I'll just pull off the compressor, paint it, and put it back on!
 
Put some good quality (read home made) block off plates over the holes.
 
Grab, I had the same problem on my 72 Road Runner GTX. What I ended up doing was removing the hoses and condensors. I took the hoses that go to the compressor to a machine shop and had them cut the hoses off the brackets and weld them closed. Then I placed those brackets back over the holes in the compressor. That way I didn't have to redo my entire front of the engine. I can get you pics of the setup if you like. My plan is to completely redo the A/C at a later time. I have the compressor unplugged as well, so it only acts as a pulley and never engages. This should work for you as long as your compressor is not locked up.
 
RRGTX - Thanks. I think that's the way to go. Were you worried about cutting up your factory hoses/brackets or are they easy to replace?
 
I was a little apprehensive at first, but I think I am going to go with an aftermarket set up from cool my mopar. It replaces everything under the hood with new stuff. Like you though, that will be further down the road. Do you still need the pics of how mine looks?
 
Grab, I had the same problem on my 72 Road Runner GTX. What I ended up doing was removing the hoses and condensors. I took the hoses that go to the compressor to a machine shop and had them cut the hoses off the brackets and weld them closed. Then I placed those brackets back over the holes in the compressor. That way I didn't have to redo my entire front of the engine. I can get you pics of the setup if you like. My plan is to completely redo the A/C at a later time. I have the compressor unplugged as well, so it only acts as a pulley and never engages. This should work for you as long as your compressor is not locked up.

No worries, the compressor wouldn't (shouldn't) engage if there's no refrigerant in the system but unplugging it's not a bad idea.
 
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