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Take it down to bare metal?

C

citadel

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Ok, decided to repaint my 69 RR vert as it is not the factory color. I will be bringing it back to Y2.

The car was restored about 9 years ago when the previous owner went from Y2 to Y1. At the time it was taken to bare metal and the front pass fender, trunk floor and rockers were replaced.
As it stands today the ride is still in great shape (nice driver quality). There is a small crack under the rear window in the metal section right above the trunk lid deck. The only other noticeable area is a small bubble in the cowl area. There is also a slight waviness to the paint/ bodywork on the sides as it seems the body wasnt blocked to a show car level.
The gaps are not great as it stands today. I believe when the previous owner had the work done he was looking for a nice driver quality for the exterior. I think he paid around ~$8k or so for the bodywork and paint.

My question is, when we redo the body and paint, should I take it all back down to bare metal?

My goal is to make the car a top #2. Paint smooth as glass, panels all aligned, all paint color changed from Y1 to Y2, inlcudes jams, trunk, engine bay and under carriage.

Thoughts?
 
citadel said:
Ok, decided to repaint my 69 RR vert as it is not the factory color. I will be bringing it back to Y2.

The car was restored about 9 years ago when the previous owner went from Y2 to Y1. At the time it was taken to bare metal and the front pass fender, trunk floor and rockers were replaced.
As it stands today the ride is still in great shape (nice driver quality). There is a small crack under the rear window in the metal section right above the trunk lid deck. The only other noticeable area is a small bubble in the cowl area. There is also a slight waviness to the paint/ bodywork on the sides as it seems the body wasnt blocked to a show car level.
The gaps are not great as it stands today. I believe when the previous owner had the work done he was looking for a nice driver quality for the exterior. I think he paid around ~$8k or so for the bodywork and paint.

My question is, when we redo the body and paint, should I take it all back down to bare metal?

My goal is to make the car a top #2. Paint smooth as glass, panels all aligned, all paint color changed from Y1 to Y2, inlcudes jams, trunk, engine bay and under carriage.


Thoughts?
Click to expand...


Its always best to take it down to bare metal, only way to go and especially for what your after. Kind of point blank, but it is your best option. Sounds like your going all out and want it to look great, good luck with it!
 
In order to get the "smooth as glass" paint job you want it should be taken all the way to metal and have any suspect areas properly fixed. Who knows what the previous body folks did as part of their repairs and the last thing you want is for their work to cause you problems in the future.

Stripping a car is cheap insurance and give you some peace of mind too.
 
What he said x2!

dryheat said:
In order to get the "smooth as glass" paint job you want it should be taken all the way to metal and have any suspect areas properly fixed. Who knows what the previous body folks did as part of their repairs and the last thing you want is for their work to cause you problems in the future.

Stripping a car is cheap insurance and give you some peace of mind too.
Click to expand...
 
X3.......Start with a clean canvas and see where you stand. You might be a bit pleasently/unpleasently surprised
 
If no rust is popping through the old paint, and it already straight.
Scuff and repaint it.
 
Only way to know what you have is to strip it clean.. bare metal gets my vote
 
I don't think you will be happy with the results unless you go down to bare metal and start over. That is the only way to know what you have when done. It might look ok for a couple of years if you paint over the existing, but down the road the flaws will come back. I think the deck lid filler and cowl areas you mentioned are lead joint areas. A good body man should have a better product to put there to prevent the problem from returning.
 
How long does it take you to 'strip' a door down to bare metal? Do you have pics before, during and after? I have a professional interest in knowing how long you guys take in doing this in the DIY methods, thanks!
 
99ss said:
The roof to quarter seem as well
Click to expand...

The car is a convertible....no roof seam on this one.

My vote is to strip to bare metal- you have no idea what kind of workmanship is under the paint unless you strip it. Take lots of pictures during the bodywork and paint stage so you can show what kind of work has been done if you sell in the future.
 
Down to bare metal or you roll the dice on what is to come in the future on the paint or body. Good luck.
 
Donny said:
How long does it take you to 'strip' a door down to bare metal? Do you have pics before, during and after? I have a professional interest in knowing how long you guys take in doing this in the DIY methods, thanks!
Click to expand...

Donny, took me about a hour per panel.

Dave F
 
Donny said:
How long does it take you to 'strip' a door down to bare metal? Do you have pics before, during and after? I have a professional interest in knowing how long you guys take in doing this in the DIY methods, thanks!
Click to expand...

I had my whole car media blasted for $850 back 10 years ago.
 
i would take it downto bare metal.When i did my RR over 23 yrs ago in trade school, i know the work i did in mine,that is why this time i'm going all the way down to metal and doing it right (i hope).
 
Another vote here for bare metal.
Six years ago I had my 71 charger repainted. The bodyshop recommended I go to bare metal but said it wasn't necessary. Was putting my son through college at the time so money was tight. So they sanded off the old repaint down to the original paint, fixed any bad spots and repainted. I ended up with a problem called lifting. Body guy said that todays new primers and paints are very aggressive and sometimes not compatible with the old stuff. He said the best thing to do was to let the car sit for a while and let it fully cure. Ended up letting the car sit for a year or two (remember -son in college), then wet sanded and cut and buffed car. Been two years with no problem.
After this problem the body guy will not take on a project if the owner doesn't want to remove the old paint.
 
I'm taking mine to bare metal and i'm just doing a driver,my budget is limited but wasting money is not in it either,most good body men wont touch it unless they strip it to bare or they won't warrenty the job due to unknown substraight.
 
Mine was a no brainer. The paint was so bad and it had about 8 coats of paint including build primer etc and looked to have had several paint jobs over the years. I took nearly all of it off using a razor blade scraper. Came off in sheets! Took me only 20 minutes to clean off the roof!
 
1 hr for the outside panel, what about the inside parts of the door, not necessarily inside the door, but the complete door?
 
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