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carb linkage question

ram250098

ram250098

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I took the car in the have the 904 tranny leak fixed, they fixed up the shifter linkage for me and will go into every gear now, what a difference. They left the linkage for the passing gear off because they didn't want do the adjustable bolt trick incase it binded, I can see that.
I drove the car 20 mins back and did not sputter or backfire. I was messing around with the linkage trying to find the sweet spot and got it to shift but no passing gear it would just start to bog down. Moved the bolt on the linkage and shifted again then bogged and backfired.
After a couple trys it was hard to start and would barely move when gas was applied.
What could cause this? I don't get it.
Please help......Moparfest is getting close LOL

carb 001.jpg
 
The "linkage for passing gear" is your kickdown linkage. It is there on the carb and has the bolt stuck in it. VERY important for this to be hooked up properly or you will burn up your trans. A reputable shop should have known that. Probably a bunch of Chevy guys.

It shouldn't be necessary to have a bolt crammed in there to make the kickdown function. That tells me you don't have the right stuff on the car....maybe because of the generic Edelbrock carb and possible incorrect placement of the stud for the cable etc. If all else fails, ditch the mechanical linkage and get a Lokar cable. Do it soon, or like I said you'll burn up your trans
 
The tranny guy's told me about that, they seemed to know the mopar stuff. They told me about the bolt trick to keep some pressure on the tranny so it wouldn't burn up. It will shift into a couple gears just not the passing gear, so I assume that is just an adjustment?
These Locar cables are they generic or do you need a specific one for the make and application of car?
I would prefer not to use one as money is really tight right now.
AL
 
Runner is right, if the trans is shifting soft, almost slipping into gears. You need more pressure. This causes a lot of heat in the trans. The Lokar is around $139.00, maybe better if you shop. Beats a rebuild or new trans.
 
This mornning I figured the car ran ok back from the tranny shop without the linkage hooked up, After hooking it up like they said it started to sputter and backfire from the carb. I took the linkage back off to see how it would drive and I get the same thing. So what could have changed?
It idles ok just will not accept any throttle when in gear.
AL
 
I'm assuming you mean it will pull away, but really won't accept much throttle with the kickdown hooked up.

If that's what's happening, then the kickdown is probably way to tight and is forcing the trans to do something it isn't ready to do, which in turn is loading the motor to the point it won't take any gas.

The Lokar cables have gone up since I bought my last one. But go here to have a look

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-KDP-2727BLD/
 
I bought the Edelbrock throttle adaptor but now am not sure of how to route the linkages. Some of the guy's said this was very important to have.
AL
 
Looking at the pic again, it looks like the factory stud is in the wrong place
 
I would kill for a pic of what is supposed to be there LOL.
I don't see how the adapter does anything different than what I had, it looks like I might still need to use the bolt to make the kickdown slide.
AL
 
I'd take a pic of the Duster, but it has a Lokar on it. Not much help except to see the side of the carb
 
Good shopping Runner. I must have over paid for mine....Ram I will takes pics of my Lokar set up if you wish, but like Runner said, may not help you. I have to tell you that I messed with my OEM linkage for a long time and never had it just right. The Lokar was on and ready to go in less that 2 hrs, and it was set it and forget it.:yes:
 
I have to ask. Could we have have accidently caused a vacuum leak. Maybe there are two problems going on at once.:edgy:
 
Yep, the stud is wrong. Normally on the factory AVS they are closer to the pivot point (shaft) so with this higher location you will have ratio issues. The outer spring is wrong too. It needs to hook to the throttle pressure linkage to keep it against the stud so when the carb linkage moves the TP moves also. WOT should get you maxed out on the throttle pressure or really close. You can manual shift it for now to hold the gears longer so you don't burn up the clutches. Also as mentioned, holding the TP back a bit will help your situation but you won't have passing gear.
 
Thanks Jim, that looks like what I have now, I hooked it up last night, but my kickdown linkage still doesn't move with the throttle, I will try the spring.
I checked for vacuum, went I took the car out after hooking up the kickdown, I felt it shift, so I hit the gas a bit harder to see if it would give me the passing gear and that is when it started to bog and cough and has been doing it ever since. I am thinking fuel...it has to right... right ..LOL
AL
 
I know it was getting gas a few day ago I checked and I could see it. Today I looked again and little bits was squirting in. I took the fuel filter off and the inlet side looked like mud. I cant afford a new tank right now so I will put on a new filter and see what happends.
I guess when I punched it I got a whack of dirt into the filter.
Thanks for all the help.
AL
 
When I first got my Coronet, it had no air cleaner on the factory carb. I replaced the factory manifold and carb with an Edelbrock four barrel carb and intake. I had the same problem with the transmission kickdown linkage. Even when it was adjusted all the way, the carb would not kick the linkage down far enough to go into the passing gear. At the time, I placed two 10mm bolts in the linkage to eat up the extra room, so it would kick down.

I then installed the Bouchillon kickdown linkage kit. http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BPEtkdc.asp

At first, I had a hard time adjusting it and couldn't get into the passing gear, and my car couldn't get out of it's own way. But after playing with it for awhile, I think I finally got it to where it needs to be. When the carb is all the way open, the linkage is fully activated and the kickdown switch on the transmission is all the way activated. From a dead stop, and with the pedal at full throttle, it kicks into the last gear at 90mph. After talking to an old timer(no offense to the old timers) he said this is where it should be. I have no idea if he is right or not. The only problem I have now is when in a 30mph zone, sometimes the transmission will stay in a lower gear and I'm waiting for it to shift into a higher one, or then it will shift hard into a higher gear, even when I'm not accelerating anymore. I don't know if this can be associated to the linkage setup or if it is a result of the transmission be forty years old.
 
That "hanging" in gear is usually caused by the kickdown being just on the edge of to tight. If you back it off just a smidge (check your manual for the decimal conversion on smidge) then it should be just right.
 
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