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handleing of a 73 roadrunner

73roadrunner

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Dec 5, 2008
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Brighton Tennessee
Hi yall, is there anything that can be done about the handleing of a 73 rr. It's like rideing in a boat! I mean you go around curves and you'll almost get sea-sick. Beautiful ride if your just going straight but every now and then you must make a turn. There's soooo much body roll it's almost unsafe. I love the car but I hate the handleing. I don't know what to do short of replaceing the entire front-end. I mean is it me--or do they just handle like "turds"? Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
 
Hi yall, is there anything that can be done about the handleing of a 73 rr. It's like rideing in a boat! I mean you go around curves and you'll almost get sea-sick. Beautiful ride if your just going straight but every now and then you must make a turn. There's soooo much body roll it's almost unsafe. I love the car but I hate the handleing. I don't know what to do short of replaceing the entire front-end. I mean is it me--or do they just handle like "turds"? Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.

adjust torque bars
 
what's the overall condition of the suspension? Shocks? Sway bar end links? Tires? Got any bad balljoints, tie rod ends, etc? What's it like when you hit a bump in the road?

here's a link for you to browse:

http://www.firmfeel.com/b.htm

plus you have PST here as an advertiser to click on their link.

A lot can be done to bring this car in line with a better road feel. And a lot can be done with the stock suspension components that are in it.
 
The car rides like a cadillac--if I'm going straight. It handles like a boat---when I'm takeing curves. Tires and shocks are good. suspension is in "fair" shape. I've been told that the torsion bar suspension is not that good for the twisties. You know built for straight line running. I'm trying to get it where it will be as much fun to drive in the country as it is to drive on cruise nite.
 
Do you have any idea how many cars built today have a torsion bar suspension in them? SUVs as well.
 
well im restoring my 73 rr right now and i had alot of play in my steering column and if you have that problem ill tell you right now what it is doing it. it is the rag joint. the steel cup above your box. elimnate that with a mopar coupler kit from flaming river. but that isnt your problem. i just thought i would throw that in there
 
Do you have any idea how many cars built today have a torsion bar suspension in them? SUVs as well.

Exactly. Whoever said the torsion bar suspension is only good for a straight line forget 'em and don't take any advice from 'em. When you say the suspension is fair, what does "fair" mean? In good shape but with a lot of miles? New shocks, which brand? Do you have sway bars front and rear?
 
I would think your first step should be to remove the iso mount biscuits and weld the K member with a skid plate. A lower radiator support goes a long way as well. (XV Motorsport sells them or you can make one) Then I would replace the T bars with some heavier duty ones and replace all the front end components (ball joints ect) with new moog type stuff. I wouldn't ditch the rubber bushings (except the K member mounts (aluminum) and the sway bar bushings(poly urethane)) unless it will be for track only but but get get new rubber bushings and replace. Boxing the Lower control arms is a good idea too.

Next I would upgrade your steering box to either a manual box or something like a firmfeel stage 2 or 3 and all the steering components like tie rod sleeves. Also don't forget a slightly higher rate sway bar in front and out back will help tremendously. I like to use poly urethane mounts for the sway bars.

Then I would think about some new shocks like KYB gas adjust or better and maybe some bigger wheels and better brakes. Light weight 15in or 16 maybe a 17 with new higher performance rubber.

T bars are really a superior design but 30-40 years things do need to be rebuilt.

Don't forget it is also a good idea to tie the subframe and new or reached leafs are a must out back with new bushings. I would ditch the iso stuff from the back too if it has it.

From my experience the people at firm feel are great, very willing to talk and very knowledgeable.


I know it's a lot but it should handle very well after something like this.
 
The car rides like a cadillac--if I'm going straight. It handles like a boat---when I'm takeing curves. Tires and shocks are good. suspension is in "fair" shape. I've been told that the torsion bar suspension is not that good for the twisties. You know built for straight line running. I'm trying to get it where it will be as much fun to drive in the country as it is to drive on cruise nite.

torsion bar not good for the twisties? tell that to nearly every porsche made up to about 1989 (they're torsion bar AND trailing arm). A coil spring is just a torsion bar bent into a helix. there's no difference.

It's more like bad suspension geometry not good for the twisties...

when was the last time the car was aligned? what are your caster and camber numbers. it's surprising what a degree or two will do.

1. You'll want to go stiffer on nearly everything. torsion bars should go up one or two sizes.
2. you'll want to go to a stiffer shock. overdamped isn't bad, you certainly don't want any float.
3. a rear sway bar will help get some balance back by stiffening up the rear end.
4. how old are the bushings? go to a poly bushing, if they're original, at least get new rubber ones.

look for a camber correcting upper A arm.

some of this may or may not apply to your car.

sjd
 
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