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power steering pump

glhx

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are a and b body power steering pumps interchangeable. i have a 68 coronet pump on my 69 dart and i think that its blowing the seals out of my steering box. is this possible
 
are a and b body power steering pumps interchangeable. i have a 68 coronet pump on my 69 dart and i think that its blowing the seals out of my steering box. is this possible


Do you have a Saginaw or a Federal pump ?

Federal are better pumps but they have more displacement so they pump more fluid and they pump at higher pressures, They also have a pressure relief valve that opens at highway speed and diverts the pressure back into the reservoir, because less pressure is need for steering at that time, not all these valves have the same pressure settings, they varied from 6 to 8 cylinder and different body styles such as A, B, C and E bodied cars, Heaver cars run higher pressures.

It's probably a sticking relief, but it's stuck shut. ...If it's a Federal it should have be backed off on the pressure by about 400 psi. A bodies ideally run at 900 psi Max, B and E bodies should be around 1300 psi Max.

I also own a shop that does nothing but Professional rebuilds on Classic and Vintage P/S pumps and gear boxes, so I should know.

If you have any other ?s , please feel free to PM me.


I also speak and Specialize in Mopar. :grin:
 
it is a saginaw pump. it blew the seals with no stress on the steering.. could that extra 400 psi from the 68 coronet pump blow the steering box for an a body
 
it is a saginaw pump. it blew the seals with no stress on the steering. car was in the air

The Saginaw's are a whole different design, .....Federals are "Roller" type, Thompson are "Slipper" type and the Saginaw's are "Rotary Vein" type, .......on a Sag. you has less that can go wrong, It has a round rotor with small thin veins that slide out from the centrifugal force of rotation and forces the fluid , these will sometime stick from wear or crud, (mostly from crud due to people mixing different fluid or mixing ATF with P/S fluid) .....You probably have a couple of veins sticking, these are slightly rounded on the housing side, and they are directional, .......if you tear this pump down, examine the veins closely at the time of disassembley....... It's very important that go back the same way. (If the rotor and veins are not worn beyond use)
 
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it is a saginaw pump. it blew the seals with no stress on the steering.. could that extra 400 psi from the 68 coronet pump blow the steering box for an a body

it could if the seal aren't use to the added pressure, were the seals fairly new or were they old anyway ? .....but I would say it's more than likely a over pressure problem from the pump, things can stick if they have set dry for any length of time.
 
Saginaws have a diffenent type regulator spring and let's not rule that out just yet, they can still stick and fail, so i would still check it.

The 0.94 is the Displacement in cubic inches, it is a Saginaw.
The 1.06 is the displacement in cubic inches, it is a Federal pump.
Federals should pump a minimum of 2.7 gpm at idle and 1.6 minimum at highway speed.
OEM pressures are as follows...

V,L - Valiant/Dart........................................0.94 pump 900-1000psi
1.06 pump 950-1050psi

B,J - Barracuda/Challenger.........................0.94 pump 900-1000psi
1.06 pump 950-1050psi

R,W - Satellite/Belvedere/Coronet..../6.....1.06 pump 950-1300psi
V-8..1.06 pump 1150-1300psi
0.94 pump 1200-1300psi

P,D - Fury/Polara/Monaco......smallblock....0.94 pump 1200-1300psi
bigblock.......1.06 pump 1150-1300psi

C,Y - Newport/New Yorker/Imperial/300....1.06 pump 1150-1300psi
 
The Saginaw pumps are referred to as the .94 pump. This pump has less displacement, and only offers single stage flow control. Both styles of pumps regulate pressure with shims and a pressure relief spring. You can alter the pressures by altering the number of shims in the flow control valves. The Federal pump must be dis-assembled and the valve is on the back of the pump body itself. The Saginaw pump contains the valve in the pressure hose fitting on the back of the reservoir. In addition, a larger pulley will slow the pump, helping with the poor feel of the power units. These are the basic pumps. There are slight variations in pump models depending on the engine/chassis...input shaft location can be different and most pumps have different return line locations.

Given the features, and pressures from the chart that I posted above in my last post, it could be said that the best road feel would be had with an A or E body Federal style pump. Not only does it have the lowest output pressure, but the Federal's two-stage valve would help things as well. Adding a bigger pulley would help further. Another big boost in road feel comes from using an aftermarket 14" steering wheel (Yes, I know, I am a Die Hard Restoration Guy, but it's all about making my customers extremely satisfied, and most customers cars are Drivers). Anyway the smaller wheel raises resistance and increases feedback quite a bit. Changing shims would also provide more or less power assist to "customize" the feel.
 
so im running the 68 coronet pump.....which may have too much pressure...... my pump spring may be stuck closed? or the veins may be sticking. maybe a new pump is in order...this is the 5th new seal in there. my original box blew a seal...i replaced the box with this one from a 70 cuda....it blew the input shaft seal. i replaced that and decided to replace the non leaking pitman shaft seal as well................5 seals later i cant get one to work....the pressure has blown out 5 new seals. im thinking of running another washer in ther to take up the space between the seal and snap ring so the seal cant move...theres an inch of space there now....the seal is being blown that 1/8 inch up against the snap rig and loosening itself as soon as you turn the wheel....i have heard that to take the seals out you take off the snap ring and start the car then turn the wheels and it blows the old seal out....this is whats happening to me but i dont want it to. the pressure is moving that seal 1/8th i could just not seat it all the way down so there is no space between the seal (with washer cover ) and snap ring but then it may go in crooked. what do you think
 
so im running the 68 coronet pump.....whih may have too much pressure...............the steering boxes on the 68 coronet and 69 dart....are they the same? my pump spring may be stuck closed?

I would check the relief spring first, :yes:.....That's what it sounds like, unless your gear box seals were already Borderline Shot, ......It's kinda hard to say with looking at it first hand.
 
can you tell me how to install it correctly. i have a 1 1/8 socket with the end cut off so it will fit over the shaft. i put an extra washer on the seal and then hammer it until it seats at the bottom. seal looks good in there. with the washer it is about 1/8 inch from the snap ring...soon as i start the car and turn the wheel . the pressure forces the seal aginst the snap ring \...unseating the seal. i think i installed it right...am i missing anything..i will probably replace the pump...how good can an original pump from 1968 be...things wear out
 
ive replaced the pump with the correct pump and installed the seal and washer right next to the snap ring. this was another new seal and should have had no room to travel and leak. it is leaking where the seal meets the housing and is leaking worse than usual this time. new lines and pump.
 
You'r so Vain, you probably think this thread is about you

I may be Vain to mention, but veins carry my high blood pressure, reading that pump Vanes are creating high hydraulic pressure.

Carly Simon
and Red
 
this is an older thread but I also have a PS pump question so I thought I'd add to this one. What pump would have came stock on my 1972 Road Runner GTX? My original motor has an open pulley with a nut and the motor I'm going to use for street fun has a solid pulley and I have no idea on how to remove the pulley. The original numbered 440 still ran really well and I pulled it, cleaned it and re-installed all the original parts and setting it aside. Now I'm working on finding all the brackets and pulleys for another 440 to have some fun with. I have a PS pump and trying to remove the pulley to clean and paint it but I'm thinking about just buying a rebuilt one but I dont know which one to get or how to move the pulley.
 
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