• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

disk brake conversion questions

keeper of the plains

keeper of the plains

Member
Local time
1:15 AM
Joined
May 12, 2010
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
Location
Kansas
Got a 68 charger that came equiped with power drums.They are the smaller sized drums. Ive seen a couple articles written about doing a disk swap with parts purchased at your local parts store.The O'reilies by my house could not cross reference mopar part #s.I thought that would be the cheapest route......Maybee the mp brake kits are the next cheapest? Any info would be huge help reguarding prop valve/ booster-master cylinder etc.
THX keeper
 
There are a few options. ssbc, mp, and scarebird. Scarebird uses all off the shelf parts.
 
Cheapest route is to take the spindles with rotors, pads, etc. off an F or M body in the boneyard, get whatever new parts you need like pads, rotors, or rebuilt calipers, get hoses to fit, and bolt'em on.
 
If you get junkyard calipers and they have the phenolic (plastic) pistons don't try to use them just take them as cores for new or rebuilt or you will end up burning up pads and rotors. The phenolic pistons have a bad habbit of sticking!
 
easy swap. I have done a few now. The stock disk work just fine. I would not by the aftermarket (wilwood)unless you are doing road racing of somesort.
 
I like the manual disk. Then vacuum isn't an issue. The have a consitent feel.
 
MP or another company told me that my existing booster would work, but prop valve and master cylinder would need to be changed in the conversion.
 
You will have to get a disc brake master cyl and add a proportioning valve. I agree off the shelf parts or late model stuff from the yard is the best way to go. Installing the taller F body spindles can be problematic if you use your original 68 B body control arms. The problem as I understand it is the ball joint will go into a bind at extreme suspension travel. Installing aftermarket upper control arms from Firm Feel solves this issue - or so I'm told.
 
I did the old "Disc-o-tech" swap on mine way back when the article came out. Never had any problems with it.

Next time...I'm taking off the entire front and going with a RMS deal with new brake stuff.
 
69 charger disc conversion

I own a 69 Dodge Charger with manual front / rear brakes. I wanted to upgrade the braking system some time ago, and purchased this power disc brake kit about 5 years ago. I finally have time to do this, but have never seen these pads before. I tried doing a reference for future, if I need to replace the pads and can't seem to find replacements pads. # ABEX8075EE is what is printed on the brake pads itself. I will post a few pictures I took of the pads. Can anyone help me with this ? Has anyone ever seen these type of pad's before ?

Picture 015.jpg


Picture 017.jpg


Picture 019.jpg


Picture 020.jpg


Picture 021.jpg
 
CHAZ666 said:
I own a 69 Dodge Charger with manual front / rear brakes. I wanted to upgrade the braking system some time ago, and purchased this power disc brake kit about 5 years ago. I finally have time to do this, but have never seen these pads before. I tried doing a reference for future, if I need to replace the pads and can't seem to find replacements pads. # ABEX8075EE is what is printed on the brake pads itself. I will post a few pictures I took of the pads. Can anyone help me with this ? Has anyone ever seen these type of pad's before ?
Click to expand...

Read this. http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html
 
69 charger disc conversion

I have another question. I have manual brakes. This kit I have converts it to power brakes and includes the booster.

This thing is huge, how is this going to get mounted in there? I don't think I have any room for that in there. Can't I just install the master cylinder without the power booster ? Or will the conversion kit now work correctly without the power booster installed. Here is a picture of under my hood.

Picture 024.jpg


Picture 022.jpg
 
CHAZ666 said:
I have another question. I have manual brakes. This kit I have converts it to power brakes and includes the booster.

This thing is huge, how is this going to get mounted in there? I don't think I have any room for that in there. Can't I just install the master cylinder without the power booster ? Or will the conversion kit now work correctly without the power booster installed. Here is a picture of under my hood.
Click to expand...

Good question. I still have the manual drums. I am hurting my brain finding all the info I can before I take the plunge. Since I have the 14" wheels, and most kits require at least a 15" wheel, I'll be getting much more than just a brake kit (5 wheels and 5 tires). I know they have a kit that come with booster, master cylinder, and prop valve, a kit that comes with mc and prop valve, and a kit that doesn't have any of that stuff. I don't know if the mc for power is the same as the non-power. If someone here knows for sure, I hope he or she will chime in. I can always call the various vendors and get an answer.
 
to my understanding a master is only different if its for disc or drum HOWEVER there can be different bore sizes that would affect how hard you have to push to get the same results. so ya i would say you can use your new master with out the booster it will work but i cant say if it will take more less or the same foot pressure to opperate it then what you are currently used to
 
morbidgoat said:
to my understanding a master is only different if its for disc or drum HOWEVER there can be different bore sizes that would affect how hard you have to push to get the same results. so ya i would say you can use your new master with out the booster it will work but i cant say if it will take more less or the same foot pressure to opperate it then what you are currently used to
Click to expand...

Ah ok.I don't really mind about the pedal foot pressure. It was always hard to stop anyway's. I am going to disc conversion for better stopping and finally I have no breaks. I hit the pedal and it goes right to the floor. No leaks and the master cylinder is full. Anyway, I didn't feel like taking on a big task installing power disc brakes because I know I will have to be making some modifications to install that power brake booster.
 
69 Charger Disc Conversion Help

Crunchy_Frog said:
Good question. I still have the manual drums. I am hurting my brain finding all the info I can before I take the plunge. Since I have the 14" wheels, and most kits require at least a 15" wheel, I'll be getting much more than just a brake kit (5 wheels and 5 tires). I know they have a kit that come with booster, master cylinder, and prop valve, a kit that comes with mc and prop valve, and a kit that doesn't have any of that stuff. I don't know if the mc for power is the same as the non-power. If someone here knows for sure, I hope he or she will chime in. I can always call the various vendors and get an answer.
Click to expand...

I am going to install the front disc brake conversion kit, but I am not going to install the power brake booster and the master cylinder that was included in the kit. I want to keep the manual type braking system. But my original master cylinder for all 4 wheel drums went bad. So when I make the conversion to the front to disc manual brakes, here is my question. When I buy the new replacement master cylinder, do I get the same original manual drum brake master cylinder ? Or do I buy a manual front disc brake / rear drum master cylinder ? Any help here ?
 
Most common "stupid" problem I've seen with pedal tha tgoes to the floor and no leaks is either no material on rear shoes and wheel cylinders hyper extended, or plunger's out completely.

Might be woth a check. My 5th Ave parts car had this condition when I bought it.

Front brakes worked but pedal would go to the floor.

Price was $450 (from buy here pay here). Took $25 and 1 hour to fix.

Bought car specifically to get disk brake setup as price was same as "conversion kits" and got a good running 318 and extra power window motors and cruise control to boot.
 
BTW I put 14" rallye wheels on the 5th Ave and they have no clearance issues with the factory Disc system.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
Disk Brake Lines Question
Replies
6
Views
1K
RemCharger
RemCharger
G_Money
'66 Belvedere Drum to Disc conversion questions
Replies
6
Views
2K
Dan64
D
R
1969 Roadrunner 4-wheel disc brake conversion - weak brakes
2
Replies
23
Views
6K
chtampa
chtampa
moes
8 3/4” Axle Guide
Replies
8
Views
23K
skicker
skicker
Centerline
Disk Brake Conversion done on my '64 Polara
Replies
9
Views
2K
Centerline
Centerline
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top