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How to tell if it's a real mopar radiator

rayhandloser

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Group, I have a 1967 Plymouth Belvedere II, 383 4-speed. It stars to get hot while sitting in traffic. It has a 160 thermostat. The radiator doesn't fit tight against the front bracket that runs from side to side. The tubes in the radiator run from top to bottom. There's nothing printed on the top. The radiator in my '67 Barracuda has all kinds of mopar info printed on it. The Barracuda has a shroud but not a clutch fan. The Belvedere has a clutch fan, but no shroud. Is the gap in between the radiator & the bracket normal? Are after-market aluminum radiators available? Thanks for listening. Ray
 
Ray,
Where in FL are you? I'm in Palm Beach and have a recently recored 22" radiator and I also have a org. shroud. Org mopar rads will have #'s on the top tank.
 
I live in Clermont, US 27 @ SR 50, from October 'til June. I'm in Brooklyn, Michigan now, 5 miles from the main gate @ M.I.S. Ray
 
So you won't be back till Oct? Pm me if interested in this stuff .
 
If there aren't any raised stampings on the top tank it is probably a replacement
 
How do I tell if its a real mopar radiator

I'm going to try to attach some photos of the radiator to show the gap @ the top & what looks like a bracket to attach a shroud. it's a 1967 Plymouth Belvedere II. Thanks for your help. Ray

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Looks about right. There should be brackets that fir into the holes on the sides, and the shroud attaches to those
 
Radiator looks correct. Double check the clutch on the fan to be sure its not wore out. Also lose the 160 stat for a 180 and be sure the radiator is flowing......
A fan shroud really should be used too.
 
Looks like the after market radiator I had. Had lots of problems with it. Ended up in the landfill.
 
you need a fan shroud. When your sitting in traffic, the air is not being directled on to the coils cooling them off. A lot of the cooling your getting now if from the air coming into the grill when your moving.

Check and test your anti-freeze also. When was it changed last, and how old is the radiator? It might just need rodded, which is not a big deal or expensive.

An old trick if it start getting hot is just turn on your heat. The heater core will also act like a radiator and cool your motor.

You might also need a higher flow Water pump.
 
Also looks like the extra one I have that functions perfectly.

Didn't mean to come off sounding like I was raggin' on the rad. Mine had workmanship issues. It was angled between the brackets, the water outlet was the wrong size (makes fitting a hose damn near impossible), and the water inlet was in the wrong position. Finally, the weld started leaking. If there are a hundred on the shelf and one is a bad, I'm sure to get the bad one.
 
Didn't mean to come off sounding like I was raggin' on the rad. Mine had workmanship issues. It was angled between the brackets, the water outlet was the wrong size (makes fitting a hose damn near impossible), and the water inlet was in the wrong position. Finally, the weld started leaking. If there are a hundred on the shelf and one is a bad, I'm sure to get the bad one.

I bought a repro rad for my 67 R/T several years ago and have had no "hot" problems since. Big $$ though.
 
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