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Overheating and getting frustrated

Keep it simple People,

I have a Factory 3-row 26" radiator, w/the factory shroud,and an original Chrysler 7 blade clutch fan, I also have a stock a/c water pump (8 blade),on my 440 powered '69 Coronet,in traffic on the "Las Vegas Strip",110 degree day,the hottest it got was 200 degrees!

I've seen people with "multi electric fan set-ups" overheating in 80 degree temps!
you might as well put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator!


Though I don't disagree with the point of your post, I have to correct a couple points so others don't get confused.

First of all, the 8 blade is a NON A/C pump. The 6 blade was for A/C cars, and was driven at 30% over-speed.

If you are running a non A/C pump with non A/C pulleys, all is fine, but if you are running a non A/C pump with A/C pulleys, you will get into overheating possibilities at higher (highway) RPM's as the water pump will start to cavitate, and flow less water due to the radiators inability to accept more water.

Conversely, a 6 blade A/C pump, driven by non A/C pulleys, can overheat at low speeds due to a lack of flow regardless of the radiator.

When you introduce the "mix and match" approach that many take, such as C body engines (which most all had A/C and A/C pulleys w/Larger capacity radiators), or the B body equivalent into a non thought out fabrication, people will swear by (or swear at) their combo.

The factories spent money, time, and testing, designing systems that worked. Enthusiasts usually just "guess", and love or hate the results.

That's one of the reasons that all the forums are rife with overheating threads, not just the Mopar ones.

Once you introduce all the factory, and aftermarket pumps, pulleys, radiators, fans, etc; It's quite a tribute to the original stock systems, that any of these cars still function, when combined with non ideal parts.

As you state, many people that use multiple electric fans still overheat in relatively low temperatures. This is due to not understanding the fundamentals of a cooling system, not because a modern electric fan system is not as good as stock.

Quite the opposite, as a well designed electric fan system can be worth over 30+ HP over a mix-matched stock system. In fact I can't think of any area that has as much potential for a HP increase for as little investment.

This does require a switch to a modern high output alternator, and amp Gage modification in old cars, but the cost is very minimal.


Though I agree with the point of your post, I certainly don't agree that a stock system can even come close to a modernized system if done right, plus you pick up a bunch of HP and torque in the process.
 



Though I don't disagree with the point of your post, I have to correct a couple points so others don't get confused.

First of all, the 8 blade is a NON A/C pump. The 6 blade was for A/C cars, and was driven at 30% over-speed.

If you are running a non A/C pump with non A/C pulleys, all is fine, but if you are running a non A/C pump with A/C pulleys, you will get into overheating possibilities at higher (highway) RPM's as the water pump will start to cavitate, and flow less water due to the radiators inability to accept more water.

Conversely, a 6 blade A/C pump, driven by non A/C pulleys, can overheat at low speeds due to a lack of flow regardless of the radiator.

When you introduce the "mix and match" approach that many take, such as C body engines (which most all had A/C and A/C pulleys w/Larger capacity radiators), or the B body equivalent into a non thought out fabrication, people will swear by (or swear at) their combo.

The factories spent money, time, and testing, designing systems that worked. Enthusiasts usually just "guess", and love or hate the results.

That's one of the reasons that all the forums are rife with overheating threads, not just the Mopar ones.

Once you introduce all the factory, and aftermarket pumps, pulleys, radiators, fans, etc; It's quite a tribute to the original stock systems, that any of these cars still function, when combined with non ideal parts.

As you state, many people that use multiple electric fans still overheat in relatively low temperatures. This is due to not understanding the fundamentals of a cooling system, not because a modern electric fan system is not as good as stock.

Quite the opposite, as a well designed electric fan system can be worth over 30+ HP over a mix-matched stock system. In fact I can't think of any area that has as much potential for a HP increase for as little investment.

This does require a switch to a modern high output alternator, and amp Gage modification in old cars, but the cost is very minimal.


Though I agree with the point of your post, I certainly don't agree that a stock system can even come close to a modernized system if done right, plus you pick up a bunch of HP and torque in the process.

Thank you for the correction, then basically I'm running everything as designed by the factory, my car is originally an air car,but I changed everything (both pulleys) to a non air set-up,that's probably why it works!

again, Thank You for the info.
 
I might have understood about 1/2 of that :) I saw a really good article in a mag about MOPAR cooling systems from the 60's but for the life of me I can't find it. So before I start to understand everything that was posted, can we define 'over heating'? My future need will be for my 65 Coronet w/440. My immediate need is for my '02 Dakota R/T w/408. I have a 180degree thermostat and my inclination is to think anything over about 190 is over heating but based on previous posts that appears to be wrong. So 'how hot is too hot' for an aluminum block with aluminum heads? It routinely gets to 200 - 210 during the summer.
Thanks, Bill

By the way "Hemi-Itis", that is one sweet looking ride.
 
What brand of aluminum water pump housing are you using? I have heard that pump housings from 440 source can be a problem.
 
At this point the Coronet (i.e. 440 engine) has the original water pump. Not quite ready to begin restoration yet. Unsure what the Dakota has, it is the aluminum wonder that's causing me so many problems right now.
 
how do you tell the ac pulleys from the non ac?
My 440 charger had air but it was removed, and I dont know if the ac pulleys were kept when it was rebuilt.
 
Just for my 2 cents, I run this $30 half shroud and it works fine could even get another for under but I don't run out in 115° temps lol $30 spectre shroud from summit racing

IMAG0760-1.gif
 
The crank, alt., water pump, and ac will be double pulley's.
 
how do you tell the ac pulleys from the non ac?
My 440 charger had air but it was removed, and I dont know if the ac pulleys were kept when it was rebuilt.


there are 2 differences - pulley diameter and also the number of grooves (one extra for the A/C belt, power steering pump). i don't know the diameters of each, but I'd guess you could find a supplier (Year One?) and check the specs on AC pulleys vs non AC to at least confirm what you're running.

pulley diameter controls the relative speed of the water pump / fan vs crank RPM. in fact, I've seen aftermarket pulleys that offer extra cooling setups that speed up the water pump / fan vs crank RPM as well as 'high performance' setups that slow the water pump / fan down (sacrificing cooling of course). i think summit carries 'em but i don't remember the make.
 
Yeah,
ALL Good points mentioned here.
I'm in the Mojave, the "WESTERN" end of Vegas. Vegas IS HOT as is Edwards AFB. Hellis dry heat and so is Edwards! We just had 21 days in a row w/ temps ABOVE 110. Yup, you at least...at least get a FAN SHROUD.
Running w/ out a shroud is the same as running you AC in your house w/ all you window open. (Simple Analogy)
Keep us posted...
"Super-bee_ski"
PS: A performance engine running at 210 degrees F is not overherating.
 
running cool down the road ?? hot in traffic?? both ??if ok down the road...air is not getting through the rad at slow,stopped speeds.....a shroud would help with the fan installed properly...blades half in/out...more info ?
 
Been here and done that.

You need a set of fans with a shroud that covers the radiator. I cannot run a clutch fan because of my aftermarket AC. I worked with Be Cool and got a fan and relay setup that fixed my cooling issue (I run a mild built 383).

Also the 8 small impeller water pump is for the small pulley AC cars and the 6 large impeller water pump is for large pulley non-AC cars. Here is a pic of the two.
waterpumps.jpg

Non-AC on the left AC on the right

The AC pump caused crazy temperature readings from the water cavitation in the pump housing.

I will look for a pic of my fans. I know I have one on this site somewhere.

-Steve
 
For a little extra bling...

Do what this guy did....


Exposed the brass of the factory rad and chromed the brackets..
The pic is a little over exposed, but you get the idea.

Jeff



I think I have read you post this before and i agree with you about the stock setup.

Some of the change was trying to compete in the car show circuit with the others who have gone to aluminum as well. It seems the judges , other car owners, seem to be attracted to shiny things. (i don't place well partly because I have kept the outside looking original with the factory wheels and have resisted the "shiny" chrome wheels.)

I have kept the original mechanical pump as well as the viscous fan so I may have to put that back on with a stock style shroud if I can't figure the heating problem out.

Is the timing comment true? Can an incorrect setting effect heat produced?
 

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What about all the other people have the same set up that it works perfectly fine for. Seems kind of one sided to me. No disrespect intended.
 
im not 100% convinced that a fan shroud does ANYTHING but keep your fingers out of the fan blades. my 70 383 road runner a while back had cooling issues. it would climb as high as 250 degrees. i replaced the rad with a champion 26" 3 core (stock rad was clogged beyond belief )....left the shroud off.....took out the thermostat ,,,,,AND I COULDNT GET IT ABOVE 160..... so i put in a 195 t-stat to raise the temp to more near NORMAL operating temp.

boiling point being 212 degrees....THATS NOT HOT AT ALL.... normal operating temp is 210.....i think youre fretting over nothing. when it hits 240...START WORRYING AND GET RID OF THAT ELECTRIC FAN CRAP.....all it does is block air flow. get yourself a nice 18" flex fan, LEAVE THE SHROUD OFF.. and throw that electric one out in the street.

TRY THIS.....................

to help you guys understand how a fan works....take a regular house box fan. face the air flow towards your face and feel the air flow.....now keep the fan facing your face and put it close to a wall....notice how the air flow diminishes.... thats what is happenning when you put that electric fan right against the radiator..... YOURE BLOCKING AIR FLOW.
 
im not 100% convinced that a fan shroud does ANYTHING but keep your fingers out of the fan blades. my 70 383 road runner a while back had cooling issues. it would climb as high as 250 degrees. i replaced the rad with a champion 26" 3 core (stock rad was clogged beyond belief )....left the shroud off.....took out the thermostat ,,,,,AND I COULDNT GET IT ABOVE 160..... so i put in a 195 t-stat to raise the temp to more near NORMAL operating temp.

boiling point being 212 degrees....THATS NOT HOT AT ALL.... normal operating temp is 210.....i think youre fretting over nothing. when it hits 240...START WORRYING AND GET RID OF THAT ELECTRIC FAN CRAP.....all it does is block air flow. get yourself a nice 18" flex fan, LEAVE THE SHROUD OFF.. and throw that electric one out in the street.

TRY THIS.....................

to help you guys understand how a fan works....take a regular house box fan. face the air flow towards your face and feel the air flow.....now keep the fan facing your face and put it close to a wall....notice how the air flow diminishes.... thats what is happenning when you put that electric fan right against the radiator..... YOURE BLOCKING AIR FLOW.

:headbang::upside down:


I agree that set up you have with the fan on the inside of the rad is wrong all wrong, use a pusher at least on the out side since you have a electric pump you need to do some thing dual pushers maybe? but inside is like dogs says just a wind block cool air just bouncing of the fan and not through the fins and is oly pulling around the fan area not the whole thing like it should.



Here is my pump you figure it out 180 all day, in stop and go traffic for more than 30 minutes 210-220 max

8e2957da.gif
 
Since Jimbo Billy Bob is running an electric water pump and electric fan he is looking for a solution to his temp problem not a debate on Electric vs. Stock Fan.

I would also make sure you have a anti-collapse spring in your lower radiator hose Billy Bob.
 
Since Jimbo Billy Bob is running an electric water pump and electric fan he is looking for a solution to his temp problem not a debate on Electric vs. Stock Fan.

I would also make sure you have a anti-collapse spring in your lower radiator hose Billy Bob.

im not debating dude....electric water pump or not.....the radiator still needs air flow to cool it !:headbang: dig? and i agree with the spring thing!
 
I know its hard to see in the pictures but the shroud that hold the electric fans in my setup have rubber flaps that stay closed when you are driving slow or at a stand still pulling air from the shroud through the fans for max air flow. When the car is at speed the rubber flaps open up allowing air through the radiator and past the shroud so the shroud and fans to not block or restrict air flow.

This radiator and fan configuration is 3500 cfm is rated for a motor up to 700hp

Another note: My car has a radiator shield that sits between the bumper and the radiator support and serves two functions.
1. Keeps road debris from bouncing up and hitting the radiator
2. Controls the flow of air through the grill to the radiator preventing air flow from escaping out the bottom. Of course this will not be a issue if your using electric pullers.

Last note:Since my car has AC it has two radiators to draw air through instead of just one which adds to the amount of air that must be drawn to keep the engine cool.
 
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