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Frozen nut!!!

MarPar

Live not by lies
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So i've been fighting this f***ng nut all morning (high pressure hose flair into steering box), and i figured i would ask you guys before i do anymore damage (i've started to round it as you can see). I've used a socket, a box wrench, drenched it in liquid penetrant, and lastly a 1/2" impact on it, and it still won't break free!!! ARRRGH!! is this thing pressed on??? is it possibly reverse thread?? I'm at a loss...




Thanks for all your help Gents...

DSC00389.JPG
 
Time for some heat and a 6 point wrench or socket:edgy:
i started using a 6 pt after i started rounding it. u think like a propane torch or something?? btw ps fluid isn't flammable is it?? :(
 
This method works quite well but might be a bit awkward in your application MarPar. Using a pin punch (not a center punch) lie it down flat so the tip sits squarely on the flats of the hex, give it a few solid hits on as many of the flats as you can access. also give it a few solid hits (with pin punch) on the flat area around the screw on fitting section.This will usually jar the fitting enough to remove it.

Watch yourself if your going to use heat.......no doubt you've seen what trans fluid does when it lands on an exhaust system.
 
This method works quite well but might be a bit awkward in your application MarPar. Using a pin punch (not a center punch) lie it down flat so the tip sits squarely on the flats of the hex, give it a few solid hits on as many of the flats as you can access. also give it a few solid hits (with pin punch) on the flat area around the screw on fitting section.This will usually jar the fitting enough to remove it.

Watch yourself if your going to use heat.......no doubt you've seen what trans fluid does when it lands on an exhaust system.

Red,looking at the pic,it doesn't look like one would have enough room to hit more than 1 flat.Maybe blow out excess fluid with air and keep the fire extinguisher handy.Remember that we are not sure what the fitting is made of,so don't get carried away with the heat.:grin:
 
Yeah I figured it'd be awkward but worth a try....alot of those fittings tend to be an alloy of some variety....so yes,approach with caution.
 
Ya, not much room there...i did try pinging it with a hammer and no dice. i guess i'll try a bit o'heat and see...i still couldn't believe with a 1/2" impact it still did break free!! oh well, lets see what the torcha says...:grin: Thanks Red and Hemi!!!
 
Here's a thought, those impact sockets have a radius leading into the hex area. In the past i've ground that radius away so the opening has a nice sharp edge to it.......it can make a huge difference to the outcome,especially on a shallow fitting like that.
 
Here's a thought, those impact sockets have a radius leading into the hex area. In the past i've ground that radius away so the opening has a nice sharp edge to it.......it can make a huge difference to the outcome,especially on a shallow fitting like that.


You mean that little lip before the hex starts?? Hmmm...interesting.
 
Here's a thought, those impact sockets have a radius leading into the hex area. In the past i've ground that radius away so the opening has a nice sharp edge to it.......it can make a huge difference to the outcome,especially on a shallow fitting like that.



Yes, the more surface in contact the better!

A hammer and chisel is usually a sure bet but like someone said you have to be able to swing the hammer. The fitting is a STD right hand thread.

Hmmmm, I wouldn't put heat on it because I believe there are o-rings right under it, and any heat sufficient enough to help with the removal of the fitting will damage the o-rings - me thinks. You can remove the block that has the fitting (two cap screws) and put it in a vise so you can actually get at it. It should lift straight up. I'm no expert in power steering boxes but I would make sure you mark the location exactly because I think sliding this block back and forth is how the control valve is adjusted.
 
Just a thought, would the fitting have been loctited during assembly? If that is the case low heat (400 degrees F) would help. I would be wary of damaging seals as mentioned above.
 
Meep: i do have a p. steering rebuild kit, so i should have the o ring...and also, i don't really want to mess around with the control valve, as i'm no p.steering expert myself!!! but i sure am learning a lot working on this one!! :grin:

66: I didn't even think about loctite!! I don't know why they would do that though...wouldn't a little pipe dope (PTFE) on the threads work just as well??
 
Anything in the threads during installation can cause you a ton of grief...a little heat can go a long way...FYI 400F does not have any colour change effects on the steel...no blueing etc...just very very warm.
 
You can remove the block that has the fitting (two cap screws) and put it in a vise so you can actually get at it. It should lift straight up.

I'd go this route...

I've danced this dance before. A new fitting should be readily available, so put the fitting in the vice and turn the block around it. Pretty frustrating as I remember.
 
I'd go this route...

I've danced this dance before. A new fitting should be readily available, so put the fitting in the vice and turn the block around it. Pretty frustrating as I remember.

I did get a new fitting for it already, 1/2-20 x 5/16" SAE Male flair IIRC... I could take the block out and take the fitting off as you say Joe, but i'm worried about messing up that control valve thing...
 
I feel your concern, as a body man and electrician by trade, mechanical's worry me at times as well. Given that it was a few years ago, I'm going to stop my advice with what I have already said because my memory is a bit cloudy about how I actually did it. But I don't remember anything underneath it except a few O-rings, and a plunger and spring assembly which stayed in the body and I simple bolted the plate back down when the fitting finally came out. I wish I could be more help...
 
Anything in the threads during installation can cause you a ton of grief...a little heat can go a long way...FYI 400F does not have any colour change effects on the steel...no blueing etc...just very very warm.

I agree,just get it hot,NOT GLOWING:grin:Then hit it with the impact gun:yes:
 
What I've done in the past is to hammer a 17mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket onto the fitting and then use a long extension, breaker bar, and section of pipe, and have at it. If it breaks, pull the whole control valve. Theyre not too hard to adjust.
 
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