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Stroker

benno440

benno440

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Hey guys,

Just a bit of feedback would be great,

I want to stroke my 440 to somewhere around 500 - 512 ci

i wanted to know what you guys thought about the 440 source stroker kits,

i have heard alot of good things about them but also alot of bad things,
but i do like that there machines have only ever been on a 440 mopar so they must know what there doing...

and i am on a sort of budget so there prices are good.

is there any other brands recommended??
 
Myself i would never use 440 Source. i would take to muscle motor, or mancini racing or hughes that is my opinion.!
 
They are fine. I didn't get mine from them but got just about everything else including stealth heads. My 493 is a torque monster and quick. I think you will be fine if you buy from them.

It's all eagle brand stuff and diamond pistons anyway :) H beam rods. All good stuff 440source sells it less than everyone else.
 
haha, every second person says there bad and the rest say they would use them,
ill give it a go, its not a race motor just want a nice torque motor with the power to destroy chevs and fords

thanks guys
 
You might look into K1 Technologies. I got a 4.15" crank and a set of rods for my HEMI and it's all very nice. The thing I hear about 440 Source and others is the quality of the machine work, so just make sure you get everything checked out and/or corrected before you toss it in.
 
hey benno, I have just been through all this as I am building a 512 right now or my local engine shop is. I have 440 source crank, rods and pistons as a rotating assy for $2000 u.s, Stick with edelbrock heads, dont bother with 440 sauce heads or their roller rocker set. I also went for a hydraulic roller cam as well altho I had to get a billet timing cover.
Get yourself the How to build max perf Mopar big block book by Andy Finkbeimer its all there for the reading. Your exchange rate is good against the USD which will help.
 
I did it the more expensive way of buying eagle/indy parts peice by peice and having a professional do the assembly/ machining ...

When you compare it to some of the assembled rotating crate motors with guarenteed HP ...
I think i was a it crazy for spending 15k+ when on ebay a crate motor deal can be had for a 1/3 of the price....
 
My brother and I both use the 440Source kits and they have worked fine with zero problems. Mine is a 440 block thats .030 over with the 4.15 crank that comes out to 493 cubes. I had to used dished pistons to keep my comp at 10.6 with my EZ heads. Its a pump gas driver that I drive to the track and race it thru the pipes just like I drive it. I have run it hard up to 6500 but I do shift before that and it has worked good and run 10.70's. The only thing I had to do was fit the piston pins as they come thru a little tight. Everything else measured in specs. Ron
 
Thanks for the feedback guys,
I actually already have the 440 source heads on the engine at the moment they are brand new, i sort of rebuilt the engine to stock and whacked it back in but now i want to stroke it so its a nice clean engine already
 
Thanks for the input...I've been researching a lot about this as well, and keep coming back to 440source...but as others said, I just don't know what the real issues others have had.

As pointed out, machining may be an issue, so that's good to consider.

Like you, I'm looking for a fun driver.
 
bigmanjbmopar said:
I didn't get mine from them....
It's all eagle brand stuff and diamond pistons anyway.... 440source sells it less than everyone else.
Click to expand...


I don't know where you got your information, as their cranks, rods and pistons are "no name" brand stuff, not Eagle and not Diamond. With no name comes no credibility, and no accountability. 4340 steel, but what are the purity and QC standards for a Chinese company with no name, and not undersized but what of their oversize and taper issues? Why should you have to shave the edge off of a bearing or buy narrow bearings because of they don't grind their radius properly?

I have bought 2 sets of their heads and a water pump housing along with miscellaneous other things.

The water pump housing will be the demise of the passengers side of many peoples engines as the internal casting is extremely restrictive. I will post pictures comparing it to a Mopar housing, with gaskets in place in the future.

As far as the heads, once you clearance the pushrods, and replace the crap retainers, locks, springs and pay the extra shipping you will have more invested than if you just bought a set of Edelbrock heads from Summit. Plus the Edelbrocks have helacoiled bolt holes and angled plugs, and if you want straight plugs get the Mopar heads.

Along with this you get something that doesn't exist with 440 Source... It's called "Customer Service". Not some Jeckle and Hyde moron that makes you pay shipping both ways for an extremely inferior part that would score your $10,000 engine, and gives you store credit only that you have to exchange for overpriced name brand parts (Comp/ARP).

Another troublesome point with credibility is not the clearly "Made in USA" labeled parts, however in their description of their "no name" pistons they make many references to being made in "America". I don't believe this is an innocent change of terminology, to me his shows a wormy lack of integrity by implying USA, but it really could be Mexico, Brazil, or anywhere in South America for that matter. If it is not a bad thing why disguise it? Also saying that you should replace your worn out waterpump housing? No moving parts touch it, how does it wear out?
 
Last edited:
benno440 said:
haha, every second person says there bad and the rest say they would use them,
ill give it a go, its not a race motor just want a nice torque motor with the power to destroy chevs and fords
Click to expand...

Where I come from 50% is a huge failure, how about going with someone that has a solid reputation like another person stated early on in this thread.

It's not a race motor? I see a 700HP 440 with Paxton superchargers listed that is pushing 10 pounds of boost. How much compression are running with your KB cast pistons, '76 cast crank and likely for '76, cast rods?

The way you do your research, the only thing that you have the power to destroy is your own engine and Mopars reputation.

On the lighter side, I think we all would like to see some pictures of your Charger that you have $70,000 invested in.

It's again called... Good reputation, selling parts made in factories with names, accountability, and making things right when there's a problem.

Mancini Racing
Summit
Muscle Motors - sales/CNC machine work/professional engine builders
Jegs
Modern Cylinder Head - sales/CNC machine work
 
I was told by Tim Bowman that all cranks are made in China and only Scat finishes theirs in America. True or not, everything is outsourced for a larger profit margin and my company is guilty as well. Customer asks for a price and I give them a domestic and a foreign price with the domestic being higher priced. Most want the cheapest price with the closest safety factor of say 4 to 1 instead of the domestic 8 to 1 ratio. Brand name is the most important selling point to me even if it cost twice as much as the plain white box company that may be out of business by the time this is posted. Call Tim Bowman and he can build you a very nice engine or atleast give you some direction.
 
has2bmopar thanks for your feedback the charger with 700hp and supercharger is my old charger i no longer own as it was stolen and torched. i have a new 68 charger and have put over 70k into it ( the whole car ) i have taken your advice everyone and my "muscle motors" 512" stroker kit is on the way and the block is at the machine shop now getting prepped, thanks for the advice everyone
 
Very good, Mike is very knowledgeable, you should have no dissapointments.

Just an opinion here, but if you can get by with just boring it .030" - (505")... I would, in case you score or damage a cylinder in the future you can then bore it to .060" over - (512").

Here's some inspiration.

'68 R/T numbers matching 440 Auto with 3.55s
Last repaint was over 20 years ago... Very solid car.
 

Attachments

  • 1968 RT.jpg
    1968 RT.jpg
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I have a Crower camshaft in my Durango and has a Lunati in my Demon. 60,000 miles on my Durango and the camshaft is fine but I blew the transmission last month (4th gear was gone). Does Lunati and Crower make cranks?
 
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