Exhaust manifold threaded sleeves

khryslerkid · Jun 4, 2012

Is there any way to keep from breaking off the threaded sleeves on a big block exhaust manifold? I have been using penetrating oil for a couple of days and even tapped on the outside of the casting. Worked the first one back and forth a little and " snap"!
Looks like I'll have to get out the "easy outs" on that one. I never had this problem in the past. Now I'm a little " gun shy" on the rest. Any suggestions?

B-Body Bruce · Jun 4, 2012

khryslerkid said:
Is there any way to keep from breaking off the threaded sleeves on a big block exhaust manifold? I have been using penetrating oil for a couple of days and even tapped on the outside of the casting. Worked the first one back and forth a little and " snap"!
Looks like I'll have to get out the "easy outs" on that one. I never had this problem in the past. Now I'm a little " gun shy" on the rest. Any suggestions?

PB BLASTER HAS ALWAYS WORKED FOR ME. Not sure where you live,but most auto parts stores carry it. This stuff is AWESOME !!!! Soak it down and let it sit over night....

khryslerkid · Jun 4, 2012

Thanks BBB, that's exactly what I use, PBB!

coloradodave · Jun 4, 2012

NAPA has a new product called 'Fluid Film' that is a penetrating oil and rust destroyer. It is absolutely the best I've ever used in 50 years of working on cars. Spray it on, it foams and wicks down the threads. Let it sit for an hour and then back the bolt or stud out. Try it; you'll like it.

ramcharger1964 · Jun 6, 2012

Don't waste your time or money - get Kroil. This is the BEST stuff you can purchase and it is amazing. I've tried all the rest PB Blaster, Wet Film Graphite, all the different pen oils and Kroil is hands down the best.

Now with that being said - I'll let you in a a small secret. You can make you own pen oil that works even better than Kroil. 50% acetone, 40% auto trans fluid, and about 10% diesel. Plus you can save a LOT of money. BUt if you just want to pick up something off the shelf get the Kroil.

THere ia also the old farmers trick of heating the parts up to 180 or so and then melting a candle around the threads - the wax will suck right up those threads.

Let us know what works!

64Belvedere · Jun 6, 2012

I got the acetone/transfluid trick from some antique tractor guys. Filled a badly stuck 66 383 left it for a few weeks. Pistons tapped right out for me. Messy though.

iraqivet01 · Jun 6, 2012

THere ia also the old farmers trick of heating the parts up to 180 or so and then melting a candle around the threads - the wax will suck right up those threads.![/QUOTE said:
:headbang::headbang::headbang:

zyzzyx · Jun 6, 2012

Stuck parts

Yeah, Kroil works great! You can only purchase it from the manufacturer though. No distributors I believe, but it is the best. Try to heat the sleeve untill it's red, and then let it cool completely. Don't cheat! Then a spray of PB or Kroil. Should come right off. The heat expands the nut or sleeve, and breaks the rust bond. Then you just need to lube it up before taking it off so you don't gall the threads. Good luck!

ramcharger1964 · Jun 7, 2012

I know it can bed tough to find! Napa has been selling the large aresol cans recently

coloradodave · Jun 7, 2012

ramcharger1964 said:
Don't waste your time or money - get Kroil. This is the BEST stuff you can purchase and it is amazing. I've tried all the rest PB Blaster, Wet Film Graphite, all the different pen oils and Kroil is hands down the best.

Now with that being said - I'll let you in a a small secret. You can make you own pen oil that works even better than Kroil. 50% acetone, 40% auto trans fluid, and about 10% diesel. Plus you can save a LOT of money. BUt if you just want to pick up something off the shelf get the Kroil.

THere ia also the old farmers trick of heating the parts up to 180 or so and then melting a candle around the threads - the wax will suck right up those threads.

Let us know what works!

Ramcharger64: "Don't waste your time or money"? Have you personally tried the product I recommended? Do you think there's only one solution to a problem and it belongs to you? Get a grip, Bud..........we're all trying to help. BTW, where is Oergon?
See, doesn't feel so good, does it?

khryslerkid · Jun 8, 2012

Wow! I never thought I would get this kind of response talking about rusted bolts!
Thanks for the responses. We all have had to deal with rusted bolts ect. working on these cars. Comes with the territory. Everyone has tried different things. The worst looking, rusted bolt can loosen with ease and the one that you would think would come out with your fingers will break every tool in your box, skin several knuckles and add a couple of new words to your vocabulary.
I was working in a small town garage back in the seventys, a mid sixty Chevy Impala was in for state inspection. The downpipe had a hole and needed replaced. The first flange bolt snapped right off! You had no way to reach it with a drill so we had to remove the manifold. The hardest bolt to get to breaks off! So we had to remove the head to drill that one too. Wouldn't you know it, you guessed it, one of the head bolts broke off. All of that just to replace a down pipe.
I guess that's why we keep working on these cars because of the challenge, followed by the self satisfaction of conquering yet another battle from the machine!
Thanks again for your responses. I'm off to yet another quest.

happyjackdaddy54 · Jun 9, 2012

I don't know about an old farmer's trick. But, at the machine shop I worked at we did that all the time. And it works most of the time

ramcharger1964 · Jun 11, 2012

From a site I saw quite a while ago:

Penetrating oil comparison
Interesting stuff to my friends that turn a wrench!

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
*Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test.*

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *

Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ............ ......... 516 pounds
WD-40 ............ ...... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............ . 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all
now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is
about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *
*Your experience may vary, etc., etc.

Personally - I don't care if you use a mixture of cat crap and napalm. I just wanted to show what worked for me and why I even tried it. To each his own!

Jim Bob The Dancing Bear · Jun 18, 2012

My brother in law used to work on aircraft. He used Mouse Milk. I don't see it in the test. It had to be ordered as we could not find it locally. It works great but I think the acetone and ATF is what I will be using.

Exhaust manifold threaded sleeves

khryslerkid

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