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wilwood discs/drum b body

dodge68charger

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My dodge charger needs a complete brake setup and im thinking of using wilwood discs on the front and stock drums on the rear. Is anyone running this type of setup?
 
Just don't use the drag race Wilwood brakes on a street car....unless they make a heavy duty setup. The last ones I had were very light weight. They would probably work well on the street but I can't see them lasting for very long in everyday service.
 
You'll also need a master cylinder and proportioning valve for disc brakes.
 
Did u use the stock power booster and master cylinder?
The only cars with power brakes that I had used the stock discs.....and all my drum cars were manual. My race cars were manual too even with the Wilwoods. Matter of fact, my old Road Runner stopped just as good with 11" drums as my Duster with the Wilwoods did and the Duster was 400 lbs lighter. The RR ran 126 and the Duster went 134 in the 1/4.
 
68, are you wanting street or strip?

Drums heat up in stop and go traffic. Other than that there is nothing wrong with them. My daily driven 66 works just fine (very little traffic in Tulsa OK) with the stock manual drums. At this point my tires (225-75-14's) are the limiting factor in my stopping ability.

I also plan on upgrading rims, tires and brakes to accept more aggressive driving such as autoX or something like the silver state classic.
 
pure street, the traffic out where i live is really bad to drive in. I wouldnt mind putting wilwood discs on the front n keeping the stock drums in the rear but not sure with what master cylinder to go with or ssbc offers a disc kit but i heard they only work with manual drums not power drums in the front. im sure guys with power drums used these setups and they worked?
 
I did this change to my '68 Satellite and so far the best stopping I've had with rear drums was using single piston heavy caliper front disc brakes from a '70's E-body. There are a lot of threads about this on this site. I'm using Dynalite Forged 4 piston calipers now with an adapter to mount to 11.75" front rotors from NAPA and the Wilwood BP-10 pads. I'm not impressed. Maybe I didn't bed the rotors properly, but I thought the discs that the previous owner had put on the car before I bought it worked better. It was pulling to the left though and without thinking, I bought all new wilwood stuff and sold the E-body brakes, only in the process to find out that the pulling to the left was due to a plugged rubber brake line. I was too pig headed and excited about the wilwoods to turn back and put them on anyway and sold the others.

I also tried Master Power front discs with cross drilled rotors and had a similar letdown experience. I was able to sell those and recoup most of my money though. SS brakes is finicky in that their system is supposedly moderately good, but will only adapt their discs to a drum brake car. Since i had the discs already, that meant i had disc spindles, which wouldn't accept the SS brakes setup since they require you to use their adapter.

Lesson learned - NEVER throw out items you replace until you are COMPLETELY satisfied with the replacements.
 
I'm just spoiled by disc, my SRT 10 has 15" the front and 14" on the rear. You can get it up to 120+ and stop it on a dime.

It one of the reasons I'm going with 4 wheels disc and sway bars on my Coronet.
The disc brakes is a good safety upgrade in my opinion. You'll be happy you did it.
 
How did that alterktion work out out for ya Iraqivet01??
 
My 66 Chrysler Newport had the factory power 4 wheel drum brakes, and it weighs nearly 5000 pounds and it stopped just fine though there was noticeable brake fade after some aggressive braking, but it was always smooth and never "jerky." my 63 Polara has Wilwood front and rear manual disc brakes, wilwood master cyl and proportioning valve and it stops with the quickness! For repeated/aggressive braking I definitely recommend going to a disc brake setup, but for just everyday use there is absolutely nothing wrong with a well-adjusted 4 wheel drum or even disc/drum setup. I suppose it all boils down to how much you are willing/want to spend and what you plan on doing with the car.
 
68, are you wanting street or strip?

Drums heat up in stop and go traffic. Other than that there is nothing wrong with them. My daily driven 66 works just fine (very little traffic in Tulsa OK) with the stock manual drums. At this point my tires (225-75-14's) are the limiting factor in my stopping ability.

I also plan on upgrading rims, tires and brakes to accept more aggressive driving such as autoX or something like the silver state classic.

WHY? are you planning on driving more aggreily in tulsa? just asking
 
I am going with crown vic rotors and dual piston calipers, they fit on the stock drum hub and spindle. I had a custom bracket made from .4" thick 4140 chrome moly steel. The rears are a matching set from a ford explorer, they are the same as the crown vic. Matched with a grand cherokee master, its about perfect for brakes. The only drawback is you must run a 16" wheel with a large clearance for the caliper. Tim
 
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