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Reasons why, wont run issue

19Charger74

19Charger74

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I figured I would try to get some people opinions on why a 1974 Charger wont stay running when she heats up?

Seat belt interlock is removed and hasn't been an issue since removed.

360ci, 650cfm holley double pumper.
 
Sometimes a faulty coil will stop working properly when they get heated up.. If it could be a fuel problem may be you have a problem with vapor lock, next time it stops, remove your filler pipe cap and see if you hear a hiss of air.. A couple things you can check... Good luck.
 
a bit more info would help. does it just die or does it slowly sputter out if you are on the gas does it run ok but die when you lift off? good thing to look at is when it dies pop th air cleaner off and pump the gas by hand to see if you have fuel in the carb. helps to know if it is a spark or fuel problem.
 
Sorry haven't had much time down there. I do have a hissing noise when i pop the fuel tank lid open.
I don't think its a fuel issue because i've watched the carb (breather off) draw in fuel while running and the floats are adjusted. The fuel filter is clean and the fuel pump is a mechanical 120gph Carter, which is new.

I can put my foot down and bring rpm up when i hear it bog down but it only helps for acouple seconds then cuts out on me.

I'm going to replace the coil today and see if that helps. Thanks for the info on the coil issue. I'm also going to double check the carb and see if its starving.

hopefully i can get it running today, thanks!
 
Good luck, Let us know what you find..
 
Ron 73 said:
Sometimes a faulty coil will stop working properly when they get heated up.. If it could be a fuel problem may be you have a problem with vapor lock, next time it stops, remove your filler pipe cap and see if you hear a hiss of air.. A couple things you can check... Good luck.
Click to expand...

+1

I experienced similar happenings and a coil resolved it. Make sure the coil doesn't leak. If the coil leaks, it a sign of it getting to hot and trust me...It will fail shortly!
Had lots of trouble from the newer Chinese Accel coils.
 
I thought i replied on here awhile ago. Turns out it was the ECU. My neighbor came over with a Mechanics electrical tested and mapped everything out. Said it had to be the ECU so i bought a Mopar perf one and she fired up no problems and sounded stronger...Can't describe it but i was getting a deeper sound from the car then before.

I found that if you use a Test light. Ground it and touch the ECU box on the little circle thats on the face, If it lights up the ECU module is bad.

I had that with 2 ECU on my car and th enew doesn't do it, I also checked some other Mopars and same deal. So save your self time.
 
I had a stock black ignition box, swapped out to the ignition kit from FBO (www.4secondsflat.com) then it only lasted a year or so, even with a "New" voltage reg from there. After this i put all new Mopar Performance parts in and the cars sounds and runs better. I really don't think I'll run anything but Mopar Performance parts in my car from now on. Its a new beast almost, no jumpy rpms or odd hard starting. We'll see how long this ECU box lasts but i'm sure it'll be longer then a year or so.
 
bad coil...seen it a gazillion times...get a new one! why mopar mounts these on the intake is beyond me,,,gotta be the WORST place to mount it.
 
It was the ECU box that malfunctioned. Event he original one that worked when i took it off failed when i plugged it in again.

Whats wrong with having the coil mounted on the intake?
 
19Charger74 said:
It was the ECU box that malfunctioned. Event he original one that worked when i took it off failed when i plugged it in again.

Whats wrong with having the coil mounted on the intake?
Click to expand...

heat my friend.....too much heat!:headbang:
 
You can easily mount the coil on the passenger side of the engine bay without issues, to clear some of those heat soak problems! Glad you solved your issue, I would have never guessed it would be the ECU; that is why these boards are so helpful! Happy 'Tire Smokin' Motoring :headbang:
 
Fouled plugs, I had this problem when I first got my car. I would drive it around the block 1 time and then it would cough and sputter. Not sure what the ballast resistor does, but i switched mine out the same time I did my plugs and I havent had a problem since.
 
19Charger74 said:
I figured I would try to get some people opinions on why a 1974 Charger wont stay running when she heats up?

Seat belt interlock is removed and hasn't been an issue since removed.
Click to expand...

isn't your Car canadian ? they should not be interlocked

anyway, the interlock system block the START circuit, not the RUN circuit
 
Old thread guys, but your ballast resister gives you 12 volts to start the car thats needed and then backs voltage down to 7 volts you need to run the car.
 
What do you mean by won't stay running? It starts cold and then shuts off and will not start, or it shuts off, you turn the key, it starts and stalls? It obviously runs cold so timing and compression are not an issue. Basically you are left with fuel or spark issue. Does this have a choke? Does it shut off when the choke opens? Can you feather the throttle to keep it running?
 
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