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1970 Charger 440 wont start

Dominic Torreto said:
Okay I did notice the neutral switch on the transmission is not connected(red wire) will this stop the car from cranking?
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In 70, the neutral safety switch is a 3 terminal connector.not a single wire. I suggest you invest in some basic diagnostic tools if do not already have them, it will make life a bit easier when trying to figure out problems like these. A test light for sure and maybe a multimeter. You dont need a high dollar fluke meter, sears has decent meters for 50 or under. I keep a test light in my glovebox just in case.
With a test light you could see if you have power at the smaller wire that attaches to the starter when the key is turned to the start position, and go from there. without any diag tools, we can all tell you a dozen different things to check and you have no way to do it. And the manuals too, these are as important a tool as any other.
 
You can save yourself some $ by getting the shop manual on CD rom. They can be had on Ebay for a little over $20 bucks. I got a reprinted shop manual from year one back in '99 and now it looks like garbage.(falling apart and pages all greasy) With the CD rom u can print off the pages u need and not worry about damaging that expensive book.
 
Update

I did do the screwdriver trick to the starter solenoid and either the Distributor or ignition coil was clicking but no cranking. What does this mean? Also There is for a fact electricity going to the starter.
 
Update!!!!

Engine did Crank I repeat Engine did crank from screw driver but not from the key ignition. How do I fix that to where I can start it up with the key? BTW thanks guys
 
start by pulling the plugs at the big fuse block on the fire wall
that are a common problem to corrode clean all the terminals and plugs well with
a fine wire brush , and treat them with dielectric grease

could also be as simple as your starter relay on the fire wall is bad ???

If you turn the key to the on position and pump the gas acouple time and then hit that starter again it should start you may need to give it gas by pulling on the throttle at the carb . If there is no other firing issues power to the coil and distritutor and so forth . .
 
d

car still has not turned over and I do not think there is any spark going to the distributor from the ignition coil. I did by a new ignition coil still nothing. Also would the second negative ground wire be a issue? Does it hook up to the frame and would it cause the engine not to turn over?
 
Also these wires were not connected to the ignition coil. There is the blue wires and grey wire. WHich one goes positive and which one goes negative. THeoretically if these wires are on and it does not produce power(ignition coil) then were do I trace the ignition coil to? Anyways guys keep up the posts your making this thing work.
 
Wires on the coil have no bearing on whether or not the motor will 'turn over', meaning spin. Remove the battery ground cable from BOTH ends and wire brush all the contact points. Do the same for the engine to firewall ground strap. Then take that same screw driver and cross the 2 main terminals on the starter solenoid. This is the piece that the heavy cable from the starter goes to. Then tell us what happened.
 
And i'm still thinking the firewall main junction fuse block pluss are why it wont crank at the key

those alway get corroded and 90 % of the time are the culprit

water runs right off the cowl and down the fire wall right into this area
 
.

I made a mistake by not remembering which wire goes on the positive on the ignition coil is it the gray with black line? Or the blue wire?
 
Update!!!!

Alright I did find out with the test light that there is power going to the ignition coil problem is no power is coming out. I tried this on the original ignition coil and the new ignition coil I just bought and the same thing. WOuld a ground affect this? Also would buying a new starter solenoid allow the key in the ignition to crank the engine?
 
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