What small block headers?

Just curious what small block headers you guys were running. I don't really want to have to spend the money on a set of TTI's. From summitracing.com I can see 3 different brands they say will fit. The summit brand, hedmann, and hooker. I haven't heard very good things about hooker headers so I will probably avoid them. And I have heard mixed reviews about the summit headers so I'm not sure about them either. The hedmanns seem like the best bet, but there is a note with them that they may require alterations to the shift linkage to fit, and I was wondering if anyone knew about that particular issue.

74 Satellite sebring w/ 318, auto (column), power steering, a/c

I've used Hedmann and Hooker, which since Summit doesn't own a header factory that I'm aware of, I'm sure their headers are made by one of the other two. First thing to remember is your headers won't fit right. They never, ever, do, regardless of what the ad says. These headers are designed by highly-paid engineers but fabricated by minimum wage labor, so keep a BFH nearby during install because you're gonna be doing some whacking at some point.

The other problem is the paint on these headers. Headers get hot, paint expands, then cools, then expands, and eventually falls off. Once the paint goes, the rust starts, and within a couple of years, whether you buy Hooker, Summit, or Hedmann, you'll be needing to buy another set. Then another. Then another.

I would suggest forgoing the immediate gratification of buying a set of cheap, painted, headers for $130 bucks or so, and save up to buy a nice set of coated ones that'll last you a lot longer and you'll likely only have to go through Header Installation Derangement Syndrome (HIDS) once instead of every two years.

my 71

I have Hedmans. My engine builder gave them to me. I had them blasted and painted a couple of years ago and the paint is pretty much gone now. As far as the linkage is concerned, I did a 180 on everything with a bit of modifications. The linkage is now on top. I saw an offset linkage a long time ago( I think on E-bay) but I haven't seen one lately. The modifications that I did have been working fine, so I might just leave it. I also had to take steering link apart.

Save up and go Doug's or TTI

Never seen a set of headers hold paint except for the Hi-temp ceramic coated ones. expensive to say the least.

linkage modifications are the norm as is an offset Oil filter adapter on a small block as I remember.

What ever happened to Blackjack headers?
I have used Blackjack and Headman headers there just plain old cheap 4 into one headers in my book. Just me but if I had extra money to buy a nice set of headers I would buy "TRI Y" headers for the street, They will make better power and Torq than 4 into 1 headers.

Not hearing good things about Hooker headers???? they were the ones every one wanted back in the day??? including myself but were too expensive for me back then.

I used headman cheepos on my motorhome with a 360 in it. We used it for cross country dirt bike racing anf often were out an easy 20-25 weekends a year for the better psart of ten years. Never rusted through and I bashed that thing something fierce. It ran a little lean, the plugs were snow white and the headers ran a beautifull cherry red. Never burned through though.

Revhendo said:

Save up and go Doug's or TTI

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I'll also add "Hooker Super Comps" to the list if it is a small block car.
The larger tube size isn't as much as a torque killer as you think it would be.

Revhendo said:

Save up and go Doug's or TTI

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Both dougs and TTI also say that the shift linkage will either need changing or it simply won't work. So why pay more money for headers that could have the same problem.

Bruzilla said:

I would suggest forgoing the immediate gratification of buying a set of cheap, painted, headers for $130 bucks or so, and save up to buy a nice set of coated ones that'll last you a lot longer and you'll likely only have to go through Header Installation Derangement Syndrome (HIDS) once instead of every two years.

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I was planning on ordering ceramic coated ones. I'd just rather save the extra $300 that TTI seems to want.

arsinist01 said:

Both dougs and TTI also say that the shift linkage will either need changing or it simply won't work. So why pay more money for headers that could have the same problem.

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Because that is the only similar issue with all headers and it is a small one. Granted, a pain in the *** one. But a whole lot better than having 3 out of 4 tubes on the drivers side hanging low under the front end steering linkage awaiting the banging, scraping and denting and for sure, flattening of the tubes. So, in the end, when you purchase the cheap headers, that are harder to install (read, near nightmare) you end up destroying one side and basically throwing your money out the window @ there cost each time you wreck'em.

Hence why the recommendation to the tti/Doug or Hooker Super Comps are made. More money up front and no clearance issue to destroy the head which effectively saved you money in the long run.

I was planning on ordering ceramic coated ones. I'd just rather save the extra $300 that TTI seems to want.

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Best move yet! :headbang:

rumblefish360 said:

Because that is the only similar issue with all headers and it is a small one. Granted, a pain in the *** one. But a whole lot better than having 3 out of 4 tubes on the drivers side hanging low under the front end steering linkage awaiting the banging, scraping and denting and for sure, flattening of the tubes. So, in the end, when you purchase the cheap headers, that are harder to install (read, near nightmare) you end up destroying one side and basically throwing your money out the window @ there cost each time you wreck'em.

Best move yet! :headbang:

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Agreed. I removed a pair of rusted cheapos that were on the car for about 5 years and put them in the trash. I put a set of TTI's on and they fit perfect. 3 years later they are still in perfect condition and never been smashed. Go with TTI.

73 RR 340 4 sp