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Car wont start

Dominic Torreto said:
I bought the starter relay and it did not fix the problem. I did do some of the tests. Here is the results and after you guys read the results I would like to know from the couple of tests given what probably isnt the problem(example starter solenoid, grounds, ignition coil, etc). I have been very busy this last weekend but I am going to do the rest of the tests this weekend and upload a video on youtube(I will give you guys the link). On test number one the ballast resistor read 0.4. On test number two can I use the key even if it isnt actually cranking? It shoots to a 1v when in cranking position, then shoots to zero after 1/3 of a second. For test number 3 in the run position the ohms were going crazy(the meter was blinking for 0s) I will youtube video that for you guys on the weekend. In the cranking postion it did 0.1 . Quick question about the starter solenoid but if it can crank with the bypass that means the starter solenoid is good right?
Click to expand...




Shouldn't you be getting 12vdc to one side of the ballast resistor? then reduce to 5vdc on the coil side? If you are not getting 12v to the BR then I would check the ignition switch with a meter to make sure you are getting juice all the way through, Are you sure your battery has 13-14vdc?
 
Before you fry your meter, dont use the ohms setting unless the battery is disconnected. Lets just stick with volts. Forget the ballast resistor. A test light would probably be a better tool to use right now, but a meter will suffice. Check for voltage at the starter relay. You may need a helper to turn the key, or set the meter up so you can see it when you turn the key. With the red lead on the terminal thats on a 45 degree slant and the black lead on ground, turn the key to start the engine. You should have battery voltage on the meter display. Im suspecting you dont and if suspect correctly, your problem is between your switch and the relay. Before any of this, check battery voltage. Red meter lead on positive terminal,, and black on negative terminal. Better have at least 12 volts.
 
Hemi Rebel said:
Before you fry your meter, dont use the ohms setting unless the battery is disconnected. Lets just stick with volts. Forget the ballast resistor. A test light would probably be a better tool to use right now, but a meter will suffice. Check for voltage at the starter relay. You may need a helper to turn the key, or set the meter up so you can see it when you turn the key. With the red lead on the terminal thats on a 45 degree slant and the black lead on ground, turn the key to start the engine. You should have battery voltage on the meter display. Im suspecting you dont and if suspect correctly, your problem is between your switch and the relay. Before any of this, check battery voltage. Red meter lead on positive terminal,, and black on negative terminal. Better have at least 12 volts.
Click to expand...

Where does he say he is using ohms?
 
"We" have been on at least two other forums with this. "We" have been around the bend so many times I've completely lost track of where we are, where we started, where we've been, and where we are going

It should NOT take 4 pages of a forum to troubleshoot an ignition problem. Best advice I can suggest is to find some local help.

GENERALLY

1 Get OUT of the habit of throwing parts at a problem

2 Get a FACTORY shop manual, either paper or on CD

3 Teach yourself to read electrical diagrams. They are nothing but a road map. The only difference is, you get there at the speed of light (plus or minus)

4 Biggest problems with these old girls is the bulkhead connector first, and other connectors, then switches People chopping up wiring does not help. Poor connections, poorly done crimp connectors, and never EVER use "Skotchloks"
 
There is an update I did a jumper wire to the positive side of the coil to the positive side of battery and it did not start up the battery had 13.3 volts. I had the key in run position when I did the bypass and still nothing I checked the ground strap(wire brushed and added another ground). I am going to do a video Friday and post it up on here(link) and we will go from there. As for soon I am going to get an ignition switch regardless because it wont crank from the key so that is obvious on that issue but why the car will not fire regardless will have the video and all tests posted friday. Sorry for this dragged out post.
 
BOYS I GOT GOOD NEWS!!! went home on break and I decided to check the positive side of the coil on run it was getting 0 volts then I checked the power coming out of it and it was getting zero(distributor wire to coil). I decided to crack down on the grounds as I decided to take the ecu off to wire brush the fender and that it started reading 6 volts then 10 volts. I believe the primary ignition problem is the ground on the ecu. Tonight I am going to wire brush it. So thanks to all who recomended that. Half the battle should be done if it doesnt start up on the secondary ignition get ready for the questions. Thanks Especially road runner man you were supporting me on two forums!
 
yes i am getting power out of the ignition coil but the car still wont start it backfired a couple of times last night I was wondering how to check the distributor to see if power is coming out right. Also, you guys think that the distributor needs to be turned 180 degrees(possibly)? More good news though the fuel smell smells different like it is getting burned but probably some pre detonation issues. Thanks guys definitely making progress but now we are on the secondary ignition issues.
 
To check timing

1--- Remove no 1 plug

2---Stick your finger in the hole, l and bump the starter by jumpering across the starter relay or using a remote start button. As soon as you feel compression on your finger, stop. You may have to "go around" a couple of times to get the "feel" for this

3---As soon as you feel compression, look for the marks which should be coming "up." Use a socket on the front bolt, and rotate the engine NOT to TDC, but rather, where you want the timing to be, say, 15* BTC. This depends on your cam. A stocker might light 10-12, a little performance cam 12-15, and a bigger one as much a 20*

4--- Pull the no1 wire out of the cap so you know which hole, and mark under the no1 cap tower onto the distributor housing, pencil, etc. and pull the cap. The rotor should be pointing to that tower or pretty close

4---Rotate the dist. RETARD, that's cw on a small block and ccw on a big block. This will get the "slack" out of the drive and mechanism.

5---Slowly bring the dist. back ADVANCED, CCW for a SB, and CW for a B/RB, until the points just open (if points) or if breakerless, until the reluctor tip is centered in the pickup coil core. At this time your mark for the no1 tower should be lined up with the rotor

This should be close enough to start and run.

Also, some cars, with the battery UP and a good starter, and agood timing light, you can actually TIME the car ON THE STARTER
 
UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I DID INDEED GOT THE CAR RUNNING GOOD AND I SERVICED EVERYTHING. I PUT ON POWER STEERING BELT AND POWERSTEERING FLUID CHANGED OIL FILTER, OIL, PUT IN CHAMPION SPARKPLUGS. GUYS THANK YOU VERY MUCH YOU GUYS DONT KNOW HOW Blessed I am for the help. THe main problem was the ground on the ecu(it also went bad the original one). I changed the reluctor and pick up coil before I did the ecu and I put the distributor in 180 degrees the wrong way and that is why the secondary ignition was having problems.
 
Geez Dom, I tol ya (LOL) to ground that thing weeks ago. But the MAIN thing is you got 'er. And I bet you learned a lot, too.
 
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