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school me on a 451 stroker

Well....you can find 400 blocks still right reasonable. 440 cranks still aint real high. Even steel ones. That is why I made the 700 dollar crankshaft comment earlier. Aint everybody can throw 700 bucks for a crank. I know I caint. That manifesto makes some dang good points about the 451. Essentially, it's a 440 in a smaller package.....though some say better, and I'd be hard pressed to argue. There are certainly bigger motors, but more efficient as far as cost and power, I am not sure.
 
I was planning on doing a 496, but this thread makes a good argument.


As i see it AGAIN the entire purpose for the 451 is ONLY a 440 in lighter block as per this thread and link.

No one is building the 451 right.

The 451 is ONLY the 440 crank in the 400 block and you then use the piston needed on the 400 rod, or all you did was think you built something different than a lighter 440.

Most, 90% of these 451's are simply a 440 with a light piston.

Without changing the RR you have nothing but a 440 in a lighter block.


What was the good argument? that link making you believe the 1.8 ratio is better!?! that school of thought is so old and is proven wrong unless you are building a road race motor for more high speed tracks or speedway motor for oval racing with rpms being held 8000 rpm to 10,000.
.

You would be better with the 496 and a 1.6 RR than the 451 or 440 in a lighter block
 
I had the tranny done by a local shop. He upgraded with a complete performance rebuild. He added an extra clutch plate and a 4.25 kickdown lever( he said stay away from the 5.0). The transgo2 kit was used for the upgrade. I am running a TCI 2800 converter 1400 series. I did blow the governor 1 year later and he fixed it for nothing! He only charged me $750.00 with parts for the rebuild and I bought the converter for $180.00 used, which he checked out for me prior to using it. As far as cheapening up on the cooling. After much research I decided on the 2 row because they are true 1" rows rather than 3 1/2". It also had a huge tranny cooler as compared to the others I had researched. I also added a large remote cooler after the radiator just for added insurance. I went with a higher volume aluminum pump. I went with the clutch fan instead of an electric for 2 reasons. For a fan large enough ( I tried one off a lincoln about 4000 cfm) I didn't have room. I wasn't real comfortable with a 2800 cfm setup. I have air con. still on the car. I haven't run it in the 1/4 yet. I keep saying I will make the time but I don't. I will eventually and I'm thinking mid 12's shouldn't be a problem if I can get it to hookup. It does tend to cook those 275's pretty easy. Thats about it unless you can think of something I forgot. GOOD LUCK , do your research and trust your machine shop and you'll be happy as I am. HOWARD
 
Would the 451 be a good low compression turbo motor?
 
I believe the 440 crank in the 400 block with no other mods yields a 444 cube motor.

I've been curious as to how this affects compression height and ratio.
 
As i see it AGAIN the entire purpose for the 451 is ONLY a 440 in lighter block as per this thread and link.

No one is building the 451 right.

The 451 is ONLY the 440 crank in the 400 block and you then use the piston needed on the 400 rod, or all you did was think you built something different than a lighter 440.

Most, 90% of these 451's are simply a 440 with a light piston.

Without changing the RR you have nothing but a 440 in a lighter block.


What was the good argument? that link making you believe the 1.8 ratio is better!?! that school of thought is so old and is proven wrong unless you are building a road race motor for more high speed tracks or speedway motor for oval racing with rpms being held 8000 rpm to 10,000.
.

You would be better with the 496 and a 1.6 RR than the 451 or 440 in a lighter block

Hmmm....good food for thought. So if I'm still doing the 451 I should use the 400 rods instead of the 440 rods? Could I still use the same piston, but it would have different connections?
 
I believe the 440 crank in the 400 block with no other mods yields a 444 cube motor.

I've been curious as to how this affects compression height and ratio.

True, but pistons are not available in STD bore for the 400 with a 3.75 arm I do not believe. So at .030 over it's a 451.
 
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Hmmm....good food for thought. So if I'm still doing the 451 I should use the 400 rods instead of the 440 rods? Could I still use the same piston, but it would have different connections?

Several companies make pistons for the 400 rod length, and you can even go another step and make it better by having the crank machined for the smaller rod dimensions of 2.2 or 2.1 since you have to do the mains and then send it out to be nitrided anyway.
 
Would the 451 be a good low compression turbo motor?

You can make any size motor a turbo motor just make sure it's around a 8.5 or 9:1 compression. Also if building a turbo motor I would get good h beam rods and a steel crank with forged pistons and some have gotten around 1000hp from them.
 
The first artical I read about this combo was actually about a 444.
I think it was in the mid 1980's

What happens if you use the stock 400 pistons?
(humor me, I've only built one engine, and it was over 20 years ago)
 
The timing couldn't have been better on this thread because I also am thinking about a 451 stroker for my 64 wagon. It will have an 8 3/4 SureGrip. Not sure if I'll stay with the TF or swap to a std. Still in the planning stages.
I have a steel 440 crank that I am told can be ground down to fit the 400 block as the backbone of this assembly. I also have some rebuilt, bronze-bushed and drilled 6-pack rods, but am told they are too heavy and should go with std 440 rods or have the journals turned and use BBC rods because they are lighter. I plan on using some rebuilt 452 heads ...because I have them, available. Maybe AL heads in the future.
I'm told the 400 block will sit a little lower when installed making header/exhaust installation a bit easier. Any recommendations on the headers ?
Pertronix ignition, Comp Cam mid-range Thumper, Milodon pan, 2200-2800 stall convertor, dual-plane intake with around 750cfm vac secondary carb.
Thanks in advance.
 
The difference in stroke is .370" from the 400 to the 440. That means the stock 400 piston would come out of the bore over .200". Not good. There WAS actually a 440 piston that would work, but it has been discontinued for a long time. It really wasn't a very good idea to begin with. The pistons had to be notched with the smallest of performance cams. Somehow notching a stock cast piston doesn't make a lotta sense. lol

I'm no engineer, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that high rod to stroke ratios are a good thing. Slow piston speeds, more dwell at TDC for a longer push from the power stroke, less side loading on the cylinder walls and piston skirts. It's all there. It's not like Bigfoot where you WANT to believe. The evidence exists on this one. You'll always find those to argue. You can find that anywhere.

Is the 451 better than a 493? Well no, the 493 is a bigger engine. But it is more affordable, with stock hard parts and off the shelf affordable pistons. I'm old school. I don't to use chebbie size crankpins in my Mopar. I don't care how many different connecting rods it opens the door for. That's the whole point to me of building a Mopar.

Measure the Mopar crankpin and then the chebbie. Mopar's bigger. By alot. To me, that would be akin to throwin out our big diameter valve springs just to get a better selection to use chebbie stuff. You ever sat a 440 rod next to a big block chebbie rod? Or even a 360 rod next to a big block chebbie rod? Lemmie enlighten you. The big chebbie rod is 6.125" and the SMALL BLOCK Mopar rod is 6.123". You get that? Bigger for a reason. By DESIGN.

And I know the whole arguement of the smaller crankpin has less frictional surface and the rod is lighter, blah blah blah. This ain't my first rodeo. I like MOPAR hard parts and that's what I'll use in my stuff. To me, anything else is inferior, I don't really care whose mouth it comes from.
 
You aint gonna use them six pack rods? Send um to me.

The timing couldn't have been better on this thread because I also am thinking about a 451 stroker for my 64 wagon. It will have an 8 3/4 SureGrip. Not sure if I'll stay with the TF or swap to a std. Still in the planning stages.
I have a steel 440 crank that I am told can be ground down to fit the 400 block as the backbone of this assembly. I also have some rebuilt, bronze-bushed and drilled 6-pack rods, but am told they are too heavy and should go with std 440 rods or have the journals turned and use BBC rods because they are lighter. I plan on using some rebuilt 452 heads ...because I have them, available. Maybe AL heads in the future.
I'm told the 400 block will sit a little lower when installed making header/exhaust installation a bit easier. Any recommendations on the headers ?
Pertronix ignition, Comp Cam mid-range Thumper, Milodon pan, 2200-2800 stall convertor, dual-plane intake with around 750cfm vac secondary carb.
Thanks in advance.
 
Honestly look into the 440 Source kit. I've got H rods, 4340 forged crank, pistons are 40 over with file fit rings. It comes fully balanced, of course I had the shop check everything and all was good. I feel it was the best bang for the buck. I think the car proves it with the numbers on the dyno and thats with 2 1/2 exhaust and a 750 carb, no head work or super tuning. I think this winter I might just do that to see what I can get out of it. Eventually I'll go to a roller cam I just didn't have a grand to make that happen. I do run Amzoil 10-40 zinc in it, I like synthetic and run Castrol in the other 3 vehicles. TAKE CARE HOWARD
 
As i see it AGAIN the entire purpose for the 451 is ONLY a 440 in lighter block as per this thread and link.

The amount of weight savings between a 400 block and a 440 block percentage wise is in the noise by the time you get the engine together and in the car. I believe the true advantage is lower reciprocating mass and lighter rotating assembly


No one is building the 451 right

That's a pretty bold statement.





I'm working on a 451 now and I picked the stock 440 R/S ratio because I thought Chrysler knew something when they decided the rod length and stroke way back in 1958. The 451 combo has a light piston on a 440 crank and that will relieve some stress off the crank, which is nothing to sneeze at. Lighter reciprocating assy should save on some HP too.

So let’s break this down by the numbers. A 440 rod is 6.76” C-C. A 400 rod is 6.36” C-C. That’s a difference of .400”. The stroke length difference is 3.38” vs. 3.75” for the 440. That’s .375” difference in stroke. To keep all things equal at the 1.80 R/S ratio you would shorten the 400 rod ~.300” - as it is the 400 has a 1.88 R/S ratio so shortening the rod will make it like a 440. Or you can lengthen the 440 rod on the 3.75” stroke and get 1.88:1 R/S ratio like the 400. Some have argued that changing the ratio is meaningless but others try to split hairs and will do anything to get their desired number. I understand NASCAR guys go upwards 2.0. You can uncover a whole can of worms when dealing with R/S ratios, which is why I’m just sticking with the MoPar plan, but in reality is a R/S ratio difference of .1 even worth the time it took me to type this? The 451 / 440 rod combo parts were off the shelf so it’s not like hundreds of dollars were spent on custom orders.

Something else to think about. The ratio is irrelevant when manufacturers are creating bigger engines under the direction of marketing. Let’s take the 400 SBC. It probably has the worst R/S ratio ever created but they built it anyway. Bottom line: It was a 400 CI engine when people were into “bigger is better”. It had to pass the warranty period. And GM was not going to make a special tall block SBC just to satisfy the marketers.

Another observation: If you look at all the American V8 engines around the big design change in the 50’s you will note that they all were originally designed for around 1.80:1. Ford, Chevy, MoPar, AMC, Buick, Olds, Pontiac, Cadillac, etc... So, following this logic, when the cubic inch wars started to heat up, the most economical way to increase displacement was to stroke it. And again, rather than casting a special block to keep up with marketing every time someone wanted to add some inches, piston, rod and crank changes are the more economical solution (Chevy 427 to 454). Yes new blocks were cast to accommodate larger bores (i.e. 413 to 440 MoPar; 427 and 428 Ford) or very long strokes (i.e. 425 to 455 Olds) but many just went the crank rods and piston route (i.e. Ford 289 to 302; 352 to 390 - even the 428 has the same deck height as the 352).
 
...so waht if you used the 3.38 rods with the stock piston?

Am I missing something?
 
I meant to type 6.36.
 
...so waht if you used the 3.38 rods with the stock piston?

Am I missing something?

HA! I figured you meant 6.38" - unless you are building a scale model 451 :sideways tongue:

You will need these basic measurements for figuring out where the piston top will end up:

Block deck height. This is the distance from the main bore center line to the top of the deck.

Rod length. Center to center dimension.

Compression distance of piston. This is the distance from the pin center line to the very top of the piston (not including the dome, if any).

Crank stroke. Use half the total stroke length.

Example: To figure out zero deck on a 440 you would add up the rod length of 6.76" and half the stoke of 1.875" to get 8.635". Then subtract the actual deck height measurement of 10.7" from that to get a compression distance of 2.065". For your 400 example just look up the data and plug in the numbers then check piston manufacturers specs to see if that combo exists.
 
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