RustyRatRod
Well-Known Member
If you want a Dana just to have one, get it. But the 8.750 will hold up just fine.
So tell me if this combo sounds like a winner or a weiner
- Thread starter fatecaptured
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fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
Went treasure hunting through the basement and found an old board game and the P.A.W. catalog that I purchased the engine out of back in '05-'06
So is their compression estimate close or way off? I went with the 2355f's. Is the .509 too much cam? I ordered a priming tool and timing light from mancini racing. I hope that flaming river timing light will work with the m.s.d. ignition....
So is their compression estimate close or way off? I went with the 2355f's. Is the .509 too much cam? I ordered a priming tool and timing light from mancini racing. I hope that flaming river timing light will work with the m.s.d. ignition....
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
Apparently there was still cam lube on the end of the fuel pump pushrod. I tore off the fuel pump and inspected it, I added some comp cams cam lube to it and reinserted in and smeared some cam lube on the fuel pump side as well. Glad I checked. Now i'm at ease.
:sixpack:
Garys1969RR
Well-Known Member
Just changing my carb from a 750 Eddy to a 700 Holley dbl pump improved my 1/4 mile times by 3/10 of a second. The Holley pulls much better especially top end. And like you, I am running a 509 cam in this 451, with 906 heads mild porting. Prime the oil system and fire it up! If a new cam, follow break in procedure.
X2 - high zinc dyno oil for break in. I would run high zinc in it after that too even though it is a hydraulic cam.
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
What compression do u have? Do you run pump gas?
The thing is i'm learning more and more as time goes on. But what confuses me is compression and quench. I understand that quench is to be set around .040- .050 to get a good burn. But how can guy's say the have 10:1 and this quench. Or 12:1 and quench? The engine I bought is thought to be 9.4:1 compression, but it has open chamber "452" heads. So i'm doubtful I have anywhere near good quench. So how is this going to effect my engine and which octane gas should I use? I realize I haven't picked the ideal components for this engine, but how do I make what I have work? Or should I just start looking for a closed chamber head?
Sorry guy's but i'm coming from old info and just now starting to pick up some newer materials. And seems like they are conflicting in some ways. I had this engine built and then put it to the way side and came back into it this year. I procrastinate anymore. Mostly do to allot of wasted $'s. I want to be sure i'm sure that it's surly going to work anymore before I buy more stuff. I guess the coronet is gonna be my test mule before I go messing with the charger engine.
HT413
Semi Pro Bowler
You're getting caught up in numbers. Lube it. Break it in. Drive it. Drive it! DRIVE IT!
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
I know. I was under it last night plumbing up the tranny cooler lines away from the headers. I noticed the dipstick tube has a nice slice in the base where I tapped it in with a screw driver and hammer a few years back.
I had trouble getting the original one in " I waited till after I had the headers on to install it.":frustrated: So now I guess I need to get a flexable one since that will leak like a faucet....
I'm in a better place financially now, so these things I can get addressed better than prior years.
Thank's for all the input. I hope to have a video of the start up really soon for ya guy's to offer up your knowledge.
I hope to further upgrade "rear end". Then i'll get the front end to the frame rack , get it straightened out. " was hit on drivers side before I bought it". Then i'll get to work on the body & paint.
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
Update: I purchased a 742 4.56 sure grip for the car. I know it's a little smaller than the 4.10 that everyone was suggesting. Bottom line is: its the case I wanted with the sure grip and in my budget. Also I get to keep the money in our community! I'm planning on using it as is.
Like mentioned many times before, I'm a novice mechanic with allot of snooping and reading hours. Not so much hands on. I'm willing to learn and try things out. Rustyratrod and many other's have helped allot. Much respect goes out yal and if it wasn't for this site i'd be lost.
Hopefully I can get this thing up to Byron Illinois next summer and make a few passes. I've only been a spectator and always wanted to be a racer. Hopefully I can fulfill one of my biggest dreams soon.
If anyone has any advise, don't be shy. And if anyone has raced at Byron and knows the regulations and can tell me what i'm missing, that would be great. Thank's again guys and have a Happy New Year!!
Like mentioned many times before, I'm a novice mechanic with allot of snooping and reading hours. Not so much hands on. I'm willing to learn and try things out. Rustyratrod and many other's have helped allot. Much respect goes out yal and if it wasn't for this site i'd be lost.
Hopefully I can get this thing up to Byron Illinois next summer and make a few passes. I've only been a spectator and always wanted to be a racer. Hopefully I can fulfill one of my biggest dreams soon.
If anyone has any advise, don't be shy. And if anyone has raced at Byron and knows the regulations and can tell me what i'm missing, that would be great. Thank's again guys and have a Happy New Year!!
kidmopar
Well-Known Member
67 b body is right about the oil!! need lots of zinc content!
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
ccasion18:
HT413
Semi Pro Bowler
If i were you, I'd take the car to the track as-is, post your times, then swap in those 4.56's and go back for more. Just for sh!ts and giggles.:headbang:
- - - Updated - - -
Hey, here's the 2012 NHRA rulebook and the 2013 ammendments. (2013 rules are only available online for NHRA members. Look under section 20 general regs, it'll tell you what your car needs. I've never raced, but like you I'm getting my car ready for the track as well. My car's biggest issues are with fluids: my trans lines and cooler are junk, fuel lines wont pass, etc etc.
Oh, so did you start that motor yet?
http://bremertonraceway.com/2012_NHRA_RuleBook.pdf
http://www.nhra.com/userfiles/file/2013 Rule Book Amendments 12-18-12.pdf
- - - Updated - - -
Hey, here's the 2012 NHRA rulebook and the 2013 ammendments. (2013 rules are only available online for NHRA members. Look under section 20 general regs, it'll tell you what your car needs. I've never raced, but like you I'm getting my car ready for the track as well. My car's biggest issues are with fluids: my trans lines and cooler are junk, fuel lines wont pass, etc etc.
Oh, so did you start that motor yet?
http://bremertonraceway.com/2012_NHRA_RuleBook.pdf
http://www.nhra.com/userfiles/file/2013 Rule Book Amendments 12-18-12.pdf
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
Hey thanks allot! That's allot of reading. Looks like i'm not in too bad of shape.
I did see in the rules about the steering. About no role pins. Can anyone tell me what they used. I'm not sure if i'm interpreting the text right or not. I was under the belief that I could run pretty much stock until 11:99 E.T. Am I mistaken?
As far as firing the engine. Not yet. Was concentrating on the charger for a few months. I haven't spent much time on the cnet lately. I have a priming tool, but need to button up a few things yet.
I was under the assumption that the rear gears I have in it now are bad choice to run with. But I'm not so sure the axles will interchange with the 742 case.
Last edited:
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
I believe i'm going to swap out those 4.56 gears. Not so sure it will be ideal. The 742 diff needs a good cleaning, so i'm thinking about an over haul. maybe some new clutches for the dana power lock. this year isn't starting out so well. allot of plans. But its looking like surgery may be in the works soon. Last years health problems put a damper on things. Looks like this year is going to be just as bad. Hope I can some day enjoy these mopars..
Lets reply with what we know and don't know. Lots of cam,unknown installed C/L of cam, unknown compression,loose converter, lots of gear. The engine is already finished. I'm assuming the owner doesn't do engine work. What do we do? Get it running. Use the Royal Purple, they are a reputable company. They know a hell of a lot more about oil than any of us. The key is getting to start immediately. Firing order correct,spark at the right time,fuel bowls full. If you don't know EXACTLY how to do this get some help. Test it with the 4.56,do you like it? Do a compression test,how much cylinder PSI? If it's low. recurve the distributor for quick advance. You may want to check into advancing the cam centerline. This is cheap from a parts standpoint but not labor if you can't do it yourself. Everybody starts somewhere. Don't switch parts for trick of the week. If your combo has enough compression,proper installed cam C/L, and tune it will be way faster than high 12. May be a little lumpy on the idle and little high on cruise RPM, but it is a Hot Rod,Right?
good luck Doug
good luck Doug
HT413
Semi Pro Bowler
well, let's hope this year is a good one for you. I'll say a little prayer for ya.
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I appreciate that.
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Dump the Electric fan waste of time and big head ache, start the motor on Old fashioned oil and forget the synthetic oils. save your money and dont start it up on Synthetic oil with zddp additive also not designed to stay in suspension. prime the engine with a good shaft from mancini. Use lubriplate white grease on lifters loaded with zinc, phosphate and Moly. Forget the water wetters nothing but a gimmick. If you want to feel warm and fuzzy mix 2 gals 100 octane Sunoco with 10 gals 93 will give you 98 octane a great way to start the engine. The MSD may make your timing lite wacky. Install a timing strip on balancer for 5.00. Start er up and dont worry
fatecaptured
Well-Known Member
I know better than to use synthetic on a start up. The whole idea behind buying the stuff cause I seen it used on Horse Power TV several. The sight lists it as a mineral oil with high zinc. If it's detrimental to my engine I surly will use the Brad Penn.
Are you saying I should pull the valve train and re lube the lifters? When I pulled the fuel pump rod, I shined an led light in the dizzy hole and seen grease still covering the cam lobes. Could the lifters be bad after all these years of siting? I still have a flex fan I can run for the start up, no shroud though. Would I need a dial back timing light or ? The dizzy doesn't have a vacuum diaphragm so timing advance I believe is mechanical. Which I will have to sort out.
Are you saying I should pull the valve train and re lube the lifters? When I pulled the fuel pump rod, I shined an led light in the dizzy hole and seen grease still covering the cam lobes. Could the lifters be bad after all these years of siting? I still have a flex fan I can run for the start up, no shroud though. Would I need a dial back timing light or ? The dizzy doesn't have a vacuum diaphragm so timing advance I believe is mechanical. Which I will have to sort out.
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A street motor needs vacuum advance. Relube the lifters with assembly lube. And get a drill powered primer rod. While your priming the engine another person can rotate the crank so oil gets tot he rocker arm shafts and this will give you instant oil pressure.+
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