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To snub or not to snub that is the ?

wedge5

wedge5

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I have heard it both ways so I am wanting to know what you guys think.
I have SS springs. I notinced today that I have small dents on my rear shock bodies where the axle tubes are hitting them. The one on the pass. side is bigger/deeper than the one on the drivers side. I am guessing that I am getting some axle wide up on the launch.
This is a drag car only
 
will caltracs stop that problem? and do away with the snubber
 
It may but that is not what I am asking.

Bolt on a part that I already have. $0
Add Caltracs. Way more money than I have.
 
Use the snubber. How long are your shocks? If they are stock length, that could be some of your problem. They need to be 2" longer than stock for use with S/S springs.
 
My shocks are longer than stock but only by an inch or so. I got them from Mancini Racing, Comp 3-ways 2735. I told them I had SS springs and they informed me these were the ones I needed. I looked up the specs on the shocks and realized they are only an inch longer. So what "affordable" shock is 2" longer than stock?
 
wedge5 said:
So what "affordable" shock is 2" longer than stock?
Click to expand...

Mopar Performance used to offer the right lengths for all the cars, but I don't think they do anymore. I get the 2" longer reference right out of the Mopar Performance book. That's been the spec as long as I can remember.
 
Bolt on "slapper" bars will do a better job on those springs than a pinion snubber will. You can find them anywhere used for next to nothing. Those springs tend to "lift" the rear of the car and the pinion snubber will still rotate back. Been there, bought the shirt..... once you get some cash, mono leafs and cal tracs are the way to go as well as strange double adjustables front and rear. If you go with new springs later, get the rear of that car down and loosen up the front so you can get some weight transfer.
 
I have always heard not to use slapper bars with S/S springs so now I am confused.
If I do anything with the rear I am just going to swap to a 4 link or ladder bars.
I have also heard to clamp the front and unclamp the rear. Anyone want to chime in on this?
 
get replacement shocks for a 70 imperial and use the adjustable snubber with an inch or less distance from the floor, and if u weld a bar across the frame rails with a plate and gusset over the pinion snubber, it will work much better than it pushing on the floor pan due to flex. the imperial shocks are the longest available and the valving will work for drag racing just fine
 
What is the opinion on an adjustable snubber if you have a set of Slide A Links already installed? I happen to have a snubber I have not yet put on. Also have a Firm Feel sway bar to install as well. How do the Sway Bar and Slide A Links like each other, or is that overkill on the rear? Thanks guys
 
Here is my thoughts.. kidmopar is right on. use SS springs clamped tight on the front segment and loose on the rear segment of the spring and a 50/50 shock like the imperial shock (longer). Depending on Horse Power you might have to put the Adjustable snubber right on the floor. Yes this set up will lift the rear of the car, this should be counter acted by the weight transfer of the body under acceleration therefore pushing the body back down hence pushing the rearend to be in a neutral location and transferring the weight to the ground. This set up will also not allow the front end to carry very far therefore keeping the power moving the car forward.
 
Well I looked up the part number for the 70 Imperial shock. The specs on the shock show they are shorter that the ones I have on the car now.
I ordered my adjustable snubber today so I will see if that helps out. Heck I thought that I would only turn a 1.47-1.50 60ft at best. I got a 1.44 spinning. Who knows I may get this close to 1.40 if I can get it to hook. Hopefully the weather will hold out for Nov. 10th. This is the very last day for the track. If it does then my next tweak will be clamps for the front half of the spring.
Man does the spending ever end? That was just a statement because I know it never does.
 
My shocks are longer than stock but only by an inch or so. I got them from Mancini Racing, Comp 3-ways 2735.
They are 24.50 or so and the Imperial ones are 22.50 or so and the stock 65 shocks are 23.something. At least that is what the specs say.
 
Slapper bars and any Mopar are not a good match. The engineers designed the springs so the axle sits forward and with the pinion snubber it eliminates axle wind up and spring hop. Look at any of the factory backed cars of the 60's and 70's, not a traction bar in the bunch. Leave those for the lesser cars.
 
wedge5 said:
My shocks are longer than stock but only by an inch or so. I got them from Mancini Racing, Comp 3-ways 2735.
They are 24.50 or so and the Imperial ones are 22.50 or so and the stock 65 shocks are 23.something. At least that is what the specs say.
Click to expand...

That 23 something spec is incorrect. If you have shocks now in the 24" range, that's right on top of 2" longer. You're fine.
 
wedge5 said:
I have always heard not to use slapper bars with S/S springs so now I am confused.
If I do anything with the rear I am just going to swap to a 4 link or ladder bars.
I have also heard to clamp the front and unclamp the rear. Anyone want to chime in on this?
Click to expand...

I've had the old 3800# 4-speed mopar Super Stock springs on my car for 30 yrs. I've run an adjustable pinion snubber for 15 yrs. and Lakewood bolt on "slapper bars" for 15 yrs. and both systems have worked very well for me with no noticeable difference in performance.

Mine is not a track car, but I run it very, very hard on the street. The only problem I've ever had is denting the floor with the pinion snubber (reinforcement would be a good idea) and pulling the bolts that hold the pinion snubber out of the center section, so the slapper bars are more durable. I'm back to running the adjustable pinion snubber because the slapper bars won't clear my 2" lowering blocks. IMO the stock pinion snubber does nothing. Just my 2-cents
 
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