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Prop. Valve Configuration?

1966er

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I bought this Prop Valve from Summit Racing and it is made by "Right Stuff Detailing"

It didn't come with any directions as to where each brake line goes. I went on Right Stuffs site, but it doesn't show how to pumb in the lines.

It's part number is PV12

Anyone running this or know which line gos where?
 

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why not call summit's tech line.they should be able to answer the question,or atleast direct you to who can.no "f" or "r" markings on it?
 
I agree....Make a phone call to summit. Or call Right Stuff themselves if they can't help you.

rst.JPG
 
I called Summit and they told me to call Right Stuff.

I just got off the phone with them and the tech person told me that the lines should hook up just like OEM, & that this Prop Valve is to be mounted in the vertical position.

They told me that they do not have a diagram for this valve. Go figure.....selling something that has no diagram.

I'm thinking on sending this back and get another type of auto prop valve. I don't want to a manual valve.
 
Somebody would have a frikkin proportioning valve shaped hole in their front door. I'm just sayin.
 
That's a later model factory replacement distribution block - like '71+ I think. I know this isn't super helpful, but check out this picture from the 70 manual:

prop.jpg

Your valve has a built in rear proportioning valve. Think of smashing the Texas-shaped valve and the tall skinny valve together- the line at the bottom (near the big silver hex plug) facing the rear of the car runs to the rear brakes. The top, vertical port comes from the master feeding the front brakes. The two top horizontal holes feed the left and right front brake. The remaining hole, on the bottom facing the front of the car, comes from the master cylinder rear brake feed. Note that in the picture, there is a front brake metering valve that you don't have. The plugged port in the picture would fee the right front brake.

Hope that helps, some. But yeah, seems like this isn't the part you want, maybe...
 
That's a later model factory replacement distribution block - like '71+ I think. I know this isn't super helpful, but check out this picture from the 70 manual:

View attachment 102311

Your valve has a built in rear proportioning valve. Think of smashing the Texas-shaped valve and the tall skinny valve together- the line at the bottom (near the big silver hex plug) facing the rear of the car runs to the rear brakes. The top, vertical port comes from the master feeding the front brakes. The two top horizontal holes feed the left and right front brake. The remaining hole, on the bottom facing the front of the car, comes from the master cylinder rear brake feed. Note that in the picture, there is a front brake metering valve that you don't have. The plugged port in the picture would fee the right front brake.

Hope that helps, some. But yeah, seems like this isn't the part you want, maybe...

I think I understand how you are saying this hooks up. Another question is on the MS, is the rear bowl for the front brakes? Here is a pic of the MS I have.

Thanks for your help on this. In your opinion, would you go for a different valve> Is so, which one?
 

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The large bowl, toward the flange, is the front brakes (large bowl = disc). The small bowl is for drums (toward the front of the car when mounted). If you are doing a disc conversion, you shouldn't need this part. Instead, get a simple adjustable proportioning valve (~$40 at Summit) and splice it into the line running to the rear of your car. What you bought would be suitable for a factory type installation of a disc/drum setup, but you won't have any adjustability.

Here's a pic of my old setup before tear down:

DSCN1735.JPG

The valve you bought just includes a factory proportioning valve. You can see how the line running to the rear has been cut and an adjustable proportioning valve was installed.

Again- it depends on what you're doing though...
 
That's just some rubber protecting the line. The zip ties have nothing to do with the brake line itself. It might not do much, but the exhaust pipe went right by there at the time and it seemed like a reasonable place to insulate a bit.
 
I've decided to send this back to Summit. Now I have to figure out another way of running the MS brake lines.

Can I reuse the distribution block and run a adjustable prop valve between that and the rear line?

Anyone have any pictures showing how this is ran?
 
if your car was 4 drum original then yes,just run the adjustable valve in the rear line just after your block.
 
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