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Turnkey new FUEL TANK w/ in-tank submersible pump for my 68 Satellite

68 Sport Satellite

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OK, so I've got a couple of things going on here...

The 451 motor build is about to get underway again and hopefully finish by summer. I'm going to run a carb for now, but still have plans to upgrade to EFI in the future, so fuel delivery is key and EFI requires an electric fuel pump. I was going to just stick with the Carter mechanical fuel pump, but California fuel eats up the rubber inside and I also plan to add an A/C compressor from Buchillon that fits where the Carter pump is at instead of the big bulky up-top compressor, so the Carter pump needs to go.

I would love to have an electric pump if I could find one that is not noisy (not less noisy, but actually QUIET). The only way to do this that I've been reading about is to have an in-tank submersible pump like modern cars do.

However, a submersible pump in an original fuel tank from 1968 will have fuel starvation and cavitation problems since these tanks don't drain from the bottom and the pump at times may not be completely submerged.

What this is leading to is I was going to replace my fuel tank anyway, so why not get one with a submersible pump?

I know Spectra is a recommended tank supplier and I'm going to call them tomorrow. Thought about Airtex too, but I don't know if they make tanks. Does anyone know of any good turnkey tank/submersible pump/fuel pick-up setups that will fit our cars? I would like to avoid moving the tank to inside the trunk if possible.
 
You can pay Rick's Tanks to make one. If you have a lot of money. Otherwise- having been down this road myself- you're pretty much on your own. Tanks Inc. has drop in pumps that you have to do some cutting and welding for. Aeromotive has a slick new drop in "Stealth" unit- but it's almost as much as custom tank!
 
I found this one too - The Mopar Dude. Offers tanks from Hot Rod City Garages that custom fit to each car with everything I need for $450.

http://www.themopardude.com/CUSTOM_GAS_TANKS.html

I'll call them and XV tomorrow. Thanks guys.

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You can pay Rick's Tanks to make one. If you have a lot of money. Otherwise- having been down this road myself- you're pretty much on your own. Tanks Inc. has drop in pumps that you have to do some cutting and welding for. Aeromotive has a slick new drop in "Stealth" unit- but it's almost as much as custom tank!

What did you end up doing on yours? Are you using an external pump? I'll call Rick's too. Their website looks like they have what I need. Hope it's at least around the $450 price...

FBO out of Canada also makes some specific to each car. $500. They say not warrantied for street use, but say OK for off-road and racing. Should be fine, right?
 
I was going to suggest you talk to DPStark and low and behold there he is. Mongo Motors can help as well.
 
I have an intank fuel pump in my 68 Hemi Charger. All I did was use a in the tank fuel pump made to push (if I remember) 5-7 psi to the carb. I just modified it to the original sending unit and ran appropriate size wire on a fused circuit. I drilled a hole in the sending unit with a seal to feed my wires to the pump. Boy it sure beat listening to an external ele. pump! The reason I did this is that I used the "low mount" compressor from "Classic Auto Air" and could not run the mechanical fuel pump. I took out the fuel vapor separator(original with the 1/4 return) and replaced with a restrictor back to the tank. This makes it great, as the fuel is always on the move to avoid any boiling and keeps the carb bowls filled....even at 110 mph down the Wyoming Highways :) It probably would not work on a race car application due to fuel demands. Steve
 
Yeah, things have changed since I bought parts to do the in-tank pump about two years ago... There are few newer, nicer products out there. I had not heard of "The Mopar Dude," but it looks to me like the $450 does not include the pump. Maybe it does, but since it says $350 extra for an in tank pump, I kind of doubt it. Also- aluminum might be cheaper, but stainless is probably a better choice for gas and the alcohol content...

I ended up using a Walbro high pressure pump (90 psi and 250 lph) in a small sump that Meep-meep and I made. We cut a recess in the top of a new tank, welded in a tray, and suspended the pump. So far, the set up is in the car, but it is not wired up and pumping yet.

Here's the modified tank:

2012-10-26%u0025252016.50.35.jpg

Here's the sump, although we added more baffles to the top half after this:

2012-11-02%u0025252014.42.02.jpg

I'll get a picture of the whole setup later. It seems to have never made it off the phone... For now- I'm pretty happy with how it worked out. The '68 tank should be a bit easier to modify.
 
Yeah, things have changed since I bought parts to do the in-tank pump about two years ago... There are few newer, nicer products out there. I had not heard of "The Mopar Dude," but it looks to me like the $450 does not include the pump. Maybe it does, but since it says $350 extra for an in tank pump, I kind of doubt it. Also- aluminum might be cheaper, but stainless is probably a better choice for gas and the alcohol content...

I ended up using a Walbro high pressure pump (90 psi and 250 lph) in a small sump that Meep-meep and I made. We cut a recess in the top of a new tank, welded in a tray, and suspended the pump. So far, the set up is in the car, but it is not wired up and pumping yet.

Here's the modified tank:

View attachment 104743

Here's the sump, although we added more baffles to the top half after this:

View attachment 104744

I'll get a picture of the whole setup later. It seems to have never made it off the phone... For now- I'm pretty happy with how it worked out. The '68 tank should be a bit easier to modify.

That's right - I think I remember seeing the tank with the hole cut in there at one point when we were over at the Missile Base.

Where did you buy your new tank at? I am all for Stainless as well - not sure where to get one though.

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I have an intank fuel pump in my 68 Hemi Charger. All I did was use a in the tank fuel pump made to push (if I remember) 5-7 psi to the carb. I just modified it to the original sending unit and ran appropriate size wire on a fused circuit. I drilled a hole in the sending unit with a seal to feed my wires to the pump. Boy it sure beat listening to an external ele. pump! The reason I did this is that I used the "low mount" compressor from "Classic Auto Air" and could not run the mechanical fuel pump. I took out the fuel vapor separator(original with the 1/4 return) and replaced with a restrictor back to the tank. This makes it great, as the fuel is always on the move to avoid any boiling and keeps the carb bowls filled....even at 110 mph down the Wyoming Highways :) It probably would not work on a race car application due to fuel demands. Steve

Yeah, I fought fuel vapor lock issues before, so I know what you mean. I currently have a 1/4" return line to my tank. What do you mean by a "restrictor" that goes to the tank and where is this fuel vapor separator before and now?

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Just talked to Hot Rod City Garage. Really nice people down in southern California. Dpstark was correct, that $450 price is not including pump or any internals. Total price with tax and shipping comes out to $924 with 3 week lead time. That price also includes custom notching to clear my new exhaust I'll be running. He said they use 5052 Aluminum which I'm familiar with and I don't think should have any corrosion issues. The SS tanks from Rick's are like 2-3 times as much. Yikes!
 
My tank is just a Spectra unit. Nice tank. Cheap enough. I figure I have $400 into my setup, not including time (mine or anyone else's). $900 isn't bad if you're looking for a turn-key setup. And if they are building the tank from scratch, they can put much better baffling inside the tank- probably a better option. But then again, it's over twice the cost. We did that setup up at the missile base, and it wasn't super easy. The '68 tanks should be easier, and we know more now. I guess it depends on what's important to you- time, money, turn-key, or some combination.

If aluminum works- go for it. I don't know much about metals, but I had heard aluminum was bad with fuel. You probably know better.

Here's a pretty neat Aeromotive unit. Not cheap though. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18668/overview/
 
Thanks for the tips and feedback. I am not shy about doing things myself, but some things are worth it to me to just buy already done. That's why I still drive the beat up and paid off honda civic, so I can spend money on the mopar haha. Removal and install will take up some time and I am anxious to get the motor done and swapped out, so I've got plenty to do already. By the way, I think your tank setup looks awesome and you learned something too! Spectra tanks have a great reputation too, so you're set there.

Anyway, I don't know about automotive use, but I know for a fact that the Coast Guard frowns on SS fuel tanks due to past problems with the welds corroding in a marine environment. I'm not sure how the high end companies like Rick's do it, but from a metallurgy perspective, you're supposed to re-passivate the welded areas when using stainless steel to restore the corrosion resistance that was disrupted during the welded process. Aluminum doesn't have this issue. (I'm a dang corrosion engineer, sorry!)
 
This is a response to "68 sport Satellite"
Q: What do you mean by a "restrictor" that goes to the tank and where is this fuel vapor separator before and now?
A: The restrictor (.040 to .060) was placed in the (1/4 inch fuel line to restrict flow back to tank and hold pressure in the 3/8 line for bowl (fuel recovery) under acceleration. The pump runs continuously, however, not so fast to keep the pressure up due to the line not being restricted. Seems to work well. Steve OCD Restoration
 
Here's a picture of my final tank. So far, no leaks... Hoping to hook up the fuel pump soon.

2013-01-05%u0025252013.56.15.jpg
 
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