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electric fan size, cfm

747mopar

747mopar

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The electric fan I had for my Charger won't fit so now I'm in need for another, what cfm should I shoot for? The motor is a 451" and I am running a BeCool radiator that completely fills the radiator opening. Thickness is the issue, I have 3" between the radiator and the water pump shaft. I found a 16"X16"X2.05" 1,300 cfm, do you need that much?
 
I was told by the Glen Ray guys at Chryslers at Carlisle that you need more like 3500 cfm or so. Even most flex fans push 3000 cfm or more.

Btw, 3" might be enough. I would measure how far the crank pulley sits behind the water pump flange and add it to that 3". Reason is you can recess the fan so that it reaches back behind the water pump flange but still clears the crank pulley (and belt) by like 1/2" or so. This will give you more room for a mech fan.
 
ht413 is correct.if the electric fans are your only cooling the 3500 cfm plus is a must.take a look at dual fan setups.those are what i normally run with the same clearance issues.plus the water pump pulley ends up between the two fans and gives you a bit more space.4200 cfm dual setup shown. i6206.jpg
 
67 coronet....what fans are you using and where did you get them?
 
dsd1967 said:
67 coronet....what fans are you using and where did you get them?
Click to expand...
strait blade flex a lite.they came off of a custom radiator combo for a chevy,but you can buy them from anybody who sells flex a lite.(jegs,summit and such)
 
67 coronet said:
strait blade flex a lite.they came off of a custom radiator combo for a chevy,but you can buy them from anybody who sells flex a lite.(jegs,summit and such)
Click to expand...

Pitch the flex fan,they were not designed for cooling,at least not aftermarket.Get a Mopar fixed 7 blade fan and you won't need electric.With the correct spacer you have enough room.This even has air and never see's above 190* .
 
Yup yup. You need up around 4K CFM to cool a high performance engine.
 
Good to know, I'll likely just throw a fixed blade on it for now and then look into a dual electric fan setup or maybe I'll just say to hell with it and just run the fixed. The only reasons I was going electric was to save on hp (fan only running when needed) and I always hated that damn fixed fan running when your working under the hood. Thanks guys
 
RustyRatRod said:
This would probably do it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-188/overview/
Click to expand...

Those dimensions are really close to the radiator opening but is 4.188 thick, I only have 3" to work with. Thanks

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62MAX said:
Pitch the flex fan,they were not designed for cooling,at least not aftermarket.Get a Mopar fixed 7 blade fan and you won't need electric.With the correct spacer you have enough room.This even has air and never see's above 190* .
Click to expand...

62Max, I was wondering what you used for your A/C pump brackets and how your belts are routed. I will be putting the same pump on mine and need to start getting it all sorted out. Looks to me like you have dual belts around the pump and alt, how about the water pump. Is it sharing the power steering pump belt? Thanks
 
Right, but keep in mind something. That's 4.88" thick at the thickest point. You don't think you could rotate or position the fan so that the thickest point would clear? I mean, WHERE in relation to the fan is your 3" minimum? Get what I'm sayin?
 
747mopar said:
Those dimensions are really close to the radiator opening but is 4.188 thick, I only have 3" to work with. Thanks

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62Max, I was wondering what you used for your A/C pump brackets and how your belts are routed. I will be putting the same pump on mine and need to start getting it all sorted out. Looks to me like you have dual belts around the pump and alt, how about the water pump. Is it sharing the power steering pump belt? Thanks
Click to expand...

The brackets are from Buchillon,the water pump pulley also,it's the only one that will work with power steering and the Sanden compressor.Bottom pulley is 4 groove big block with a/c .
 
RustyRatRod said:
Right, but keep in mind something. That's 4.88" thick at the thickest point. You don't think you could rotate or position the fan so that the thickest point would clear? I mean, WHERE in relation to the fan is your 3" minimum? Get what I'm sayin?
Click to expand...

Unfortunetly the 3" minimum is right in the center.

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62MAX said:
The brackets are from Buchillon,the water pump pulley also,it's the only one that will work with power steering and the Sanden compressor.Bottom pulley is 4 groove big block with a/c .
Click to expand...

I'll have to check them out, Thanks
 
RustyRatRod said:
You sound like you have the same kinda luck I do.
Click to expand...

Talk about luck, I purchased a Lokar throttle cable this weekend (keep in mind I don't have money to throw around) and had it all fitted up and just about finished when disaster struck. I started to feed the cable up threw the sleeve when it got tight so I pulled it back out to see what was going on "birdnested" totally ruined the cable. $40.00 down the drain, I went into a childish rage making myself look like an ***. I unwound the two damaged strands and put it in, I'll replace it later but it will serve it's purpose for now. Then came the second problem, 3/8" thick insulation + the insulation installed on the carpet + the carpet = the accelerator pedal studs not being long enough. I'll cut them off to about 3/8" long and make a 1/4 28 coupler to thread extensions on making them 1 1/2" long, that should fix that. After all of that I just started tigging my exhaust up and finished the night off on a good note. I no all about bad luck
 
i ran ionto same problem and had no room for the electric fans with my march serpentine kit i also run a be cool radiator and be cool fans but i now have pusher fans not pullers, this was my only way around it and sounds like the same for you. i run a davis craig control unit that switches them on at 190 and off at 160.
 
benno440 said:
i ran ionto same problem and had no room for the electric fans with my march serpentine kit i also run a be cool radiator and be cool fans but i now have pusher fans not pullers, this was my only way around it and sounds like the same for you. i run a davis craig control unit that switches them on at 190 and off at 160.
Click to expand...

I've been thinking about that but I have to mount a condenser on the other side so here we go again. Right now it looks like my best options are a belt driven fan or dual electric fans so they straddle the water pump.
 
Well maybe it'll turn around for you my friend. Look at it this way. You got the exhaust done.
 
Not done, "just started" it takes a while to get the bends just right to get it threw the centers of the cross member and hugged up tight to the floor. None the less that's the most time consuming part, from there it's a little more straight forward. By the way, thanks Beno for recommending Lokar, "very nice setup".
 
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