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Stalling 440 when hot ( outside )

canuk

Well-Known Member
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Hi folks , any input appreciated . Have my 68 Charger w 440 ci . For some reason on warmer days after she has run a few miles , if I come to a stop or red light it dies like I shut the key off .
The engine is far from running too hot . On cooler days she runs great with engine temp the same as hot days .
A freind of mine mentioned that its probably an ignition wire from the key switch .
Its all orig wiring and when it gets hot the connection is probably bad . Its no fun to drive anymore in town , any suggestions much appreciated Vern
 
I have seen ignition coils do that too! Seems after they get hot they shut down and the car basically just dies. It will start up and run after it cools. Is yours doing anything like that? I agree with the possibility of a wire too. Check all your wires just to be sure.
 
could be a hot carb...do you have a phenolic/cork/wood(!) spacer between the intake and carb?
 
could be a bad coil condenser or your heat riser is stuck and you are boiling the gas in carb

let us know when you figure it out

my dad had a 66 383 that sucked the vacuum advance and locked in place and would not start so check that and mech advance for sticky
 
I had the same problem, once it was the coil and the other time, it was vapor lock. Found out that I only had about 1.5 psi of fuel pressure, turns out the fuel pump push rod was ground down and was a 1/4" to short, replaced it and it now works fine.
 
I have seen ignition coils do that too! Seems after they get hot they shut down and the car basically just dies. It will start up and run after it cools. Is yours doing anything like that? I agree with the possibility of a wire too. Check all your wires just to be sure.

Thanks , sorry it took me so long to get back here , Yup , thats the problem im having .

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No , dont see one , I have a high rise edelbrock that im going to swap out soon for a dual plane . Wonder if header wrap would help?? The two fuel lines to the double pumper are wrapped though .

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Ha ha , mine only shuts off at the worst possible time . Busy intersections ect but never when in motion .

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Think the gas is boiling in the carb , engine temp is normal but it starts to shake during prolonged idle

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Thought of that too , wrapped my lines , goona try header wrap to reduce underhood temp , should help

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sounds like classic vapor lock

Thought of that too , wrapped my lines , goona try header wrap to reduce underhood temp , should help

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Thanks folks for all your ideas , much appreciated , Ill let you all know what the culpret is when I figure it out .
 
Think I found the culprit , Drove to a car show this summer and was a long wait to get to the gate , engine temp didnt go up much but you could tell she was going to die and she did . doesnt look good to get pushed to your spot haha , you can hear the comments " is that a Hybrid '' you get the point .
Anyway ,opened the hood and this gentleman came by had a look , he said my clutch fan has no resistance for a hot motor . might be it !! very hot carb .
Do I go with another clutch fan or direct drive or electric ?? Open to suggestions .
Thanks Vern :angryfire:
 
Speaking of vapour locks - check out the gas tank ventilation - I have had that before with the vacuum created in the tank killed the engine. I changed the cap to a vented style, and the problem went away. On a Charger, the cap can't be changed, but the lines coming out of the tank should be checked and cleaned if necessary.

Hope that helps.
 
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Speaking of vapour locks - check out the gas tank ventilation - I have had that before with the vacuum crated in the tank killed the engine. I changed the cap to a vented style, and the problem went away. On a Charger, the cap can't be changed, but the lines coming out of the tank should be checked and cleaned if necessary.

Hope that helps.

x2
 
Choke sticking partially closed,A/F ratio incorrect for hot idle(in other words dont adjust carb on a cold engine),Ignition timing,vapor lock(already mentioned),float level(already mentioned),low oil pressure,idle too low,A/C on with idle too low,check all that stuff and holler back.
 
What is the coolant temperature when this happens. Use a laser gun to be sure. Mine boiled fuel before the one inch spacer as said above without overheating. Yes, the clutch fan should be rigid at temp. When mine boiled fuel, it did give warning. Not just shut off as you said. Years ago I fries an ignition module and it restarted after cooling down. These are annoying problems that can really piss off your other half after talking her into a car-gig. Keep us posted.
 
Had similar issue with a 66 Belvedere 318 AT car.
She would stall coming to a stop. Heard so many ideas, (timing, carb, vacuum, transmission/low fluid, timing chain) and tried 'em all. Replaced the entire ignition(distributor/timing chain & gears/plugs & wires, coil) system, replaced carb, fan cluch and water pump, had tranny gone through. Never went away. Only thing I did not replace was the gas tank or engine.
Hope you get it sorted and it turns out to be something easy...
 
Thanks kiwigtx , much appreciated . The input from you guys is invaluable . I will be putting a shield between the carb and manifold , header wrap , new fan ,and the gas venalation line too .
 
Don't go electric fan. Ma knew. My clutch fan has never failed. Get that laser temp gun at the auto store. The thread started in May, how is it in cool/cold weather?
 
Oh no Dennis , I get warning alright , she will start to shake so I keep the revs up but it gets to a point im gonna loose it , Real hard starting after that but open the hood for 5 mins and it fires right up .
yes , its not a nice feeling knowing that idling too long will kill it
Thanks again for your wisdom . She is asleep for another 3 months till winters over but will start trying to fix the problem .

Vern

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Don't go electric fan. Ma knew. My clutch fan has never failed. Get that laser temp gun at the auto store. The thread started in May, how is it in cool/cold weather?

It gets put up the end of October , rarely happens in the fall when temps are 65 or below . she runs a steady 190 degrees , I think its an underhood heat problem
 
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