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1974 318 how far do the pistons sit in the hole?

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adam83

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I have a 318 that im resealing and putting new timing chain, sprockets, dampener, water pump, oil pump on. Since the timing cover is off im thinking about a new cam and possibly reworking the heads, so im ccurious how far in the hole the pistons are and if its worth it to pull the heads off and get them freshened up
 
Unfortunately, by my experience, it can vary and there is only one way to find out- pull the heads and measure it. However considering the year of the engine, I would suspect you'll find the slugs are set pretty deep in the bores. Hope that helps.
 
About a 1/4 of an inch, but who cares?

I would do a compression check before taking heads off. Unless you have some identified problems (needs a valve job) why tear into it...unless you want to install larger valves and do some port work. That, with a cam improvement will make a difference in performance.
 
It looks like 1/4" but it's more closer to .100".....
 
Thats pretty far. I think reworking the heads will be a waste of time and money. Im going to leave it stock.
 
I built a 1973 318 a few years ago. I did a budget rebuild which in included keeping the original pistons. I was surprised how far the pistons set down in the hole. I used a PAW mild cam and and comp cam timing chain. I degreed the cam in at 3 degrees advanced. With a old alum intake and 600 holley this thing would burn the tires off. I raced a stock 89 5.0 mustang and won by a few car links. The cam would have been retarded 2 degrees if I had installed the cam with the timing marks lined up. This would have killed bottom end torque so degreeing the cam in will make a bigger difference in performance than how far the piston is down in the hole. Pick a cam with something like 215 @ 50.
 
I have a edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb, Weiand 8022 aluminum intake, stock exhaust manifolds and 2" dual exhaust. Automatic transmission. Everything else is stock including the torque converter. Trying to select the right cam for around $100 or under


http://www.howardscams.com/chrysler/chrysler-v8-273-360-1965-1995-318-1967-1995
how about any of these from Howard cams? Im looking at the first two on the list, the rest recommend :

Howard Cams 710011-12 (says Smooth idle. Great for Street Performance & towing)

Howard Cams 711381-10 (says Smooth idle, very strong torque. Best in 273-318)



Summit racing and comp cams have some that might work
Comp cams 20-208-2
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-208-2

Comp cams 20-210-2
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-210-2

Comp cams 20-212-2
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-212-2

Sealed Power ZCS645
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-cs-645

Summit Racing SUM-6900
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-6900
 
None if them in my opinion. You should be looking at a sit pattern cam. More exhaust duration.
What is the rear gear ratio & tire size?
 
For now, the back tires are 255/70SR15. the rear is a stock chrysler open 8.25", im assuming itcame with the car (71 charger 318cid) but I don't know the gear ratio, maybe 2.76? 2.94? Maybe higher... whatever came in a base 1971 318 charger
 
Everything is being changed. Its gettin a dana 60 with 4.10, and a 440 with ported eddy heads. Just resealing the 318 so I can drive it while the 440 is being built. I just wanted to warm up the 318 a little since the timing cover is off.
 
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