We have developed a major problem.....

markbob · Aug 6, 2013

Hey all....

I have recently put the 69 Coronet on the road....

at some point, I will post all the photos of the restoration, but I have developed a problem with my body work...

the pix enclosed show the finished product....and a closeup of the L C-pillar....before the body work was done, and now after....

you cannot see it in the after pix, because of the light, but there is a small imperfection/crack forming along the rear, and bottom of the seam between the new quarter, and the original roof/c-pillar top....

the paint has not cracked and you cannot feel this with a finger, but you can see the light distort due to it from different angles....

all you body shop guys out there....please tell me this is not going to continue to crack, open up and have to be redone/repainted?

any thoughts, ideas?

thanks,

Mark

flypaper · Aug 6, 2013

did you use lead ?
plastic filler will crack and it will grow over time
the unibody cars will have alot of flex in them
and the lead is what will hold up the best.

WileERobby · Aug 6, 2013

ok.. first you say there's a crack forming, then it's not a crack. A crack is a problem. If it's light distorting the metallic paint from different angles, it could just be "not so good" bodywork, where the mating surfaces are not even. If the panel is not flat, it will reflect unevenly, like when you see a washboard on the sides of some cars by crappy bodywork.

snakeoil24 · Aug 6, 2013

Did you hang the 1/4 on a lift like in the picture? If you did not support the tail on a dolly you flexed the body line and will have distortion. Like Fly paer said, leading the 1/4 is the only way to deal with the body seams. Does the C-Pillar feel like a bump is sticking out? If you feel a bulge the 1/4 has to be redone!

Propwash · Aug 6, 2013

Man that sucks! Sorry to hear it. Odds are it will get worse. I'm sure you don't want to hear it, but the only way to fix that is to grind/blast the filler out of there and re-do it. I always fully weld across the seam between the roof and quarter transition as well as weld in the drilled out spot weld holes. The factory also stitch welded a few areas along that seam as well. The Factory used lead like mentioned, but properly welding that seam you should have no issue using dura-glass or metal to metal. Regular plastic filler, no way. These uni-bodies flex and like to crack. Kinda late in the ball game for it, but if you stiffen the car up you can avoid these issues. Adding HEMI/CONV Torque boxes, seam welding the pans to the frame rails or installing sub frame connectors can do wonders. Best of luck to you.

markbob · Aug 7, 2013

Guys
thx for replies
the quarters were welded and leaded
not sure about the extext of the welding but a friend of
mine did both sides and this is the only o e with an issue
The quarters were welded and leaded in place with car on tires
I guess calling it a crack may b overdone because it hasnt gone thru
paint yet however it is new and was not there before
i have another issue now.... The body shop who did all filling sanding
and painting swithed out my hood with one from a 68 coronet
Not sure why but there was nothing wrong with it when i took it
there.... It was blasted clean and rpoxy primed and looked like
a new piece
going over there to speak to him about it tomorrow

Mark

747mopar · Aug 7, 2013

Propwash said:
Man that sucks! Sorry to hear it. Odds are it will get worse. I'm sure you don't want to hear it, but the only way to fix that is to grind/blast the filler out of there and re-do it. I always fully weld across the seam between the roof and quarter transition as well as weld in the drilled out spot weld holes. The factory also stitch welded a few areas along that seam as well. The Factory used lead like mentioned, but properly welding that seam you should have no issue using dura-glass or metal to metal. Regular plastic filler, no way. These uni-bodies flex and like to crack. Kinda late in the ball game for it, but if you stiffen the car up you can avoid these issues. Adding HEMI/CONV Torque boxes, seam welding the pans to the frame rails or installing sub frame connectors can do wonders. Best of luck to you.

Reading that made me feel better, I welded mine solid just like you mentioned, fiber strand and then a skim of filler. Sorry to hear that, hope it doesn't open up.

RS23VOA · Aug 8, 2013

I weld mine solid, even on cars with original quarters, fiber type filler, then all-metal or bondo.

We have developed a major problem.....

markbob

Well-Known Member

flypaper

Well-Known Member

WileERobby

FBBO Gold Member

snakeoil24

FBBO Gold Member

Propwash

Well-Known Member

markbob

Well-Known Member

747mopar

Well-Known Member

RS23VOA

Well-Known Member

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