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Flowkooler waterpump with 16 fins.... good choice ?

brasil

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Because my 440 runs a little hot while idling...I changed my waterpump the "old one " had 8 blades /fins with aprox. 3,88 inch diameter.. with a cast iron housing but the new flowkooler pump is not really better... same issue...

Does someone have an idea, what I should do next ?? Going back to a copper/brass radiator ? I don´t what to install E-Fans ..I prefer Stock .

Greetings Juergen


attatched you can see the both waterpumps the upper one is the "old one " the lower pic shows the "new" one
 

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no one here with an idea ? I read the thread in the "Dodge Forum " about the guy who tested the 440 waterpumps... unfortunatly he didn´t check the FLOWKOOLER pump.... So perhaps someone here knows a little more about those waterpump flow rates.... ??

Greetings Juergen
 
Just a thought, do you have a fan shroud?
 
X2 on the shroud. what ° thermostat are you running? is your entire cooling system clean?
 
you don't say what pulleys you are running...that makes a difference also.
 
Have you checked advance in Distributor? What is your distributor curve? Run a Carbon Monoxide test on the coolant, see if you have head gasket issue. Check that shaft and Impeller are not loose.
 
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normally overheat at idle is an airflow issue.common probs are lack of shroud,as stated,bad clutch,small fan blade,and spaced too far from radiator with flex fans.could be a slightly plugged radiator as well,but that is not as common as lack of air flow.
 
Thank you all for your fast answers....

Here is my current set up : 26 " Aluminium radiator ( new ) Fan shroud ( new ) 19 " Fixed Fan ( new) with 6 Blades , 180 °F Thermostat -High Flow from Milodon, (new ) Flowkooler Water Pump ....( also new ....) Timing @ Idle 10 deg btdc all in 38 deg ... I also have a Spring in the lower hose..

So I think there can be only two "suspects" left.... the radiator ( because copper/brass converts heat better than aluminium -afaik ) or the waterpump even if it is a Flowkoller pump...if the pump moves not enough water while the engine idles.... ???

I am running out of Ideas....

and yes, I made the CO test.... NEGATIV ( thanks god ) so the head gaskets are o.k.

Greetings Juergen
 
what is your temp reading at idle? judging by all the improvments you've done to the cooling system, i would assume 190-200.
 
Jurgen,

Is the Motor running lean? popping from carburetor? What is diamter of water pump pulley? What is diameter of Crank Pulley? Also measure the distance of pump impellor back to interior back of pump housing. Use clay and press in to the housing and press pump impellor into clay. Distance should be within .060 thousands English to back inside of housing to vane edge.
 
...the engine is not running lean... idle AFR is about 13.0 Cruise AFR 13.8-14.00 I will check the diameter of the pulleys today... the wp housing is the stock iron one.... ( see the pic ) till now I didn´t messure the distance to the back of the housing...

perhaps a MILODON 16260 High Volume pump would be a better choice, because of the design of their fins.. ?? The Flowcooler looks like a 2 direction pump...

Greetings Juergen

P.S @ 69 roadr : the temp is 185 -190 while cruising...but go rappidly up to 205-210.... while going stop and and or idleing with a 180 ° F thermostat... that´s to much...I think
 

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i dont think the water pump is your prob here.you already tried two with the same prob.how about some pics of the fan shroud and fan area.still think its an air flow issue.the set up you mentioned should cool upto 600+ horsepower.has this always been a prob or is motor new?
 
..I think I found the REASON .... when I bought the car, the former owner installed a overflow tank (made in JAPAN!!!) so if the enige runs...and builds up waterpressure the coolant flows into the tank... but if the engine cools down, the radiator cap opens a valve in bottem of the pressure cap and sucks water/coolant back into the radiator...until the system is 100% full ! So the next time when I drove the car..... there is no "room " for circulation... ( that´s what I was thinking about..) now the hoses are softer than before.... also.

So what did I do ???? Simply removed 1.5 Quarts of coolant...and throw the Japaneese Stuff far away.... then off the garage down the road for a ride.... 10 miles.... Water temp : 185 °F next step..... I let the car idle for 6-7 minutes ( after the ride )....Temp : 190°F -195°F.... That it !...

Could it be that simple ??? I hope so.... btw the outside Temp was around 22 -23 °C

I made some pics also ...from the Radiator / Fanshroud aso

Greetings Juergen

P.S the last pic shows the "BAD BOY ":angry1:
 

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glad to hear things have cooled down for ya. you lucked out with a Japanese part! coulda been much worse! say, Chinese for example.
 
glad to hear things have cooled down for ya. you lucked out with a Japanese part! coulda been much worse! say, Chinese for example.

perhaps those "signs " are chinese also ?? For me it´s the same.... ( don´t need their stuff.... )

Greetings Juergen
 
Juergen, are you running any kind of heat transfer chemical in the coolant? Purple Ice, Water Wetter, etc. I saw a demonstration with a heat gun and after adding 2 bottles of Water Wetter it dropped the coolant temp by at least 15 degrees.
 
...I added a bottle of this stuff.... but nothing changed... But when I took off 1 litre of coolant.... the temp droped...
Now it seems to be o.k. Next weekend it will be hot again here....and I can check the issue. Will keep you informed

Greetings Juergen
 
What kind of car is it in ??, have any performance engine mods been done ??... More detail would be nice to give a better assessment/diagnosiss... That Flowcooler pump would be the 1st suspect IMHFO... High flow pumps generally look like they scoop more water per fin not less... You could also, not have enough cfm of air flowing thru the radiator while at low speeds or idling, causing it to overheat, you need about 3000cfm for the 1st 300hp then over that about another 1000cfm of air flow to keep it cool for every 100 HP above that level up-to about the 5000cfm level, if it doesn't cool at level of cfm air flow, it wont ever cool, no matter the pump pulleys or radiator {to an extent anyway}... how far is the fan away from the radiator you need to be with-in about 3/4" especially with a mechanical fan & closer with an electric fan.... the pitch on the fan blades & the type of material the fan blades are made of & how much they deflect/twist/bend, will effect cfm flow drastically too... I know you don't want to, but you could always add an auxiliary small electric fan, to come on when your temp goes over a set temperature, keep the temps down & save you engine or sanity {always use an arming/override switch just in-case & a 30amp Bosch relay to wire any electronics thru}... A lean condition @ not just idle, but running down the road too, will have a heat sink effect, especially while idling &/or a too far retarded ignition timing, trapping exhaust heat in the combustion chamber or exhaust manifold, or even a too far advanced ignition/pre-ignition, can cause overheating issues too... Is the hood sealed to the rad support & all the air actually going thru the radiator ??... was the car originally equipped with a 26" or 22" radiator ?, the hole in the core/radiator support, is smaller if it came originally with a 22" radiator & will restrict flow for the 26" radiator... How many cores are in the radiator ??, is it a radiator for an A/C car 3-4 row core or a std. non-A/C car 2 row core ?? was the car originally equipped with a 440 or another engine ??... IMHFO The more rows in the core the better cooling will be too... Good Luck
 
...here are more Info about my car

it is a 1966 Dodge Cornonet ...the car came originaly with a 361 cui /TF 727 and A/C the car had a 26 " radiator from the factory..so the opening in the Radiator support is the "BIG ONE ".....
The Radiator now is a 26 " Aluminum Radiator ( two row ) this part is a new one - less than one year old )
The fan blade question..... O.k. the fan blade is about 1.5 inches away from the radiator... afaik . The thing is..if I go towards the radiator..the fan is fully inside the fan shroud ! This is also not so good - right ?
I have another Waterpump as you can see above.. this is a near new one...and my brother bought a waterpump yesterday in Phoenix AZ...
for a A/C Car.... he will arrive on Monday... so I will have some more choices...
About the "FLOWKOOLER"Pump... I was also thinking that perhaps the pumo is the "suspect"... Also this car is equipped with a 180 °F Highflow THermostat from MILODON... ??

Greeting Juergen

P.S the hood is not sealed against the radiator support....

P.S 2 when I rev the engine ...lets say up to 1200 rpm I can feel that the FANBLADE makes a lot of work..there is a significant flow infront of the radiator....... so we are back to the waterpump issue.... I think....
 
I remember reading somewhere that liquid flowing too fast through the rad doesn't get a chance to cool it down adequately.
Try the 8 blade as ma mopar engineered. Good luck.
 
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